mblaney
Full Access Member
This is a spin-off from this thread http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...lated-steering-components&p=882877#post882877
When I rebuilt my D60 I installed all new XRF components (ball joints plus all steering consumables). I have never been satisfied with the feel of the steering since. The symptoms are, when driving straight, your hand wanders back and forth for apparently no reason (like a driving scene in a crappy movie). Also, when cornering, the start of the turn is fine but as the turn tightens up there is a sudden shift (***!?!) in the steering wheel that makes you pucker just a little. I figured that maybe things were a little tight and would loosen up after a while but one and a half years later it still does it.
RW posted some information on an issue with our steering set up, basically the drag link (pitman to tie rod assembly) and/or the tie rod assemble (from knuckle to knuckle) is able to rotate or 'flop'. Google found some nice information on this including an awesome video of the problem here: https://youtu.be/_roGwU4zfYM
There is a fix for this but it appears that parts are only available for Jeeps. Ruffstuff Specialties make a Delrin (basically nylon) spacer that limits the 'roll' in steering components; some nice pics here http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/threads/the-cure-for-your-tie-rod-roll.160766/
I hate to mess with new parts but I decided I would modify the steering - specifically remove the grease boot from the drag link at the tie rod assembly end (not at the pitman) and replace it with a bushing. Luckily I was able to save the grease boot.
After removing the grease boot I reinstalled the drag link and measured the space between the ball joint and the tie rod assembly (not square in this pic...). I also measured the link end outer diameter and the height where the original grease seal was pressed. The only dimensions that are important is the overall length, and the fitment to the drag link. OD and ID of the part does not matter.
Lathe work. Plastic is so much fun to work with.
Fitted to the joint. Slight press fit - enough to keep water out at that end.
And the final assembly before filling with Mercruiser grease
The drag link now has a very slight wiggle in it, the spacer is about 0.005" short of bottoming which is good enough for me.
Road test: WOW! Completely different handling! From hard over to hard over there is no sensation of binding, straight line steering wheel wander is GONE. Cornering pucker factor is GONE.
When I rebuilt my D60 I installed all new XRF components (ball joints plus all steering consumables). I have never been satisfied with the feel of the steering since. The symptoms are, when driving straight, your hand wanders back and forth for apparently no reason (like a driving scene in a crappy movie). Also, when cornering, the start of the turn is fine but as the turn tightens up there is a sudden shift (***!?!) in the steering wheel that makes you pucker just a little. I figured that maybe things were a little tight and would loosen up after a while but one and a half years later it still does it.
RW posted some information on an issue with our steering set up, basically the drag link (pitman to tie rod assembly) and/or the tie rod assemble (from knuckle to knuckle) is able to rotate or 'flop'. Google found some nice information on this including an awesome video of the problem here: https://youtu.be/_roGwU4zfYM
There is a fix for this but it appears that parts are only available for Jeeps. Ruffstuff Specialties make a Delrin (basically nylon) spacer that limits the 'roll' in steering components; some nice pics here http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/threads/the-cure-for-your-tie-rod-roll.160766/
I hate to mess with new parts but I decided I would modify the steering - specifically remove the grease boot from the drag link at the tie rod assembly end (not at the pitman) and replace it with a bushing. Luckily I was able to save the grease boot.
After removing the grease boot I reinstalled the drag link and measured the space between the ball joint and the tie rod assembly (not square in this pic...). I also measured the link end outer diameter and the height where the original grease seal was pressed. The only dimensions that are important is the overall length, and the fitment to the drag link. OD and ID of the part does not matter.
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Lathe work. Plastic is so much fun to work with.
You must be registered for see images attach
Fitted to the joint. Slight press fit - enough to keep water out at that end.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
And the final assembly before filling with Mercruiser grease
You must be registered for see images attach
The drag link now has a very slight wiggle in it, the spacer is about 0.005" short of bottoming which is good enough for me.
Road test: WOW! Completely different handling! From hard over to hard over there is no sensation of binding, straight line steering wheel wander is GONE. Cornering pucker factor is GONE.
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Last edited: