Steering ISSUE fix - Drag link roll causing dead spot

mblaney

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Still any interest in making these? I have the roll, and almost bough the RuffStuff one until I remembered this thread.

I have calipers, can & will measure... or @laserjock if you've jumped down this path

I can make one up... see my other posts about shipping costs. Take some measurements with a caliper and PM me. Note: do you own or have access to a belt sander? I can make it too long and just sand it down.
 

jhenegh

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No vacations allowed!

Just kidding, that's the good stuff ;Sweet

I can make one up... see my other posts about shipping costs. Take some measurements with a caliper and PM me. Note: do you own or have access to a belt sander? I can make it too long and just sand it down.

Glad you may be willing to make more! I have a belt sander, and can get measurements.

What if you made up a few for those of us interested and shipped one package to one person state-side? Then that guy disperses via cheap USPS or something. I'll throw my hat in the ring for that if it happens soon. A house move is on the horizon for me this summer, but I've got quite a few weeks till that is a thing and makes me less available.
 

mblaney

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What if you made up a few for those of us interested and shipped one package to one person state-side? Then that guy disperses via cheap USPS or something. I'll throw my hat in the ring for that if it happens soon. A house move is on the horizon for me this summer, but I've got quite a few weeks till that is a thing and makes me less available.

I did that with the timing tapes... maybe send you and @IDIoit a care package to redistribute?
 

rwk

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Mblaney, I can make these bushing here in the states, know that shipping is bad, and customs form, I shipped some custom thrust washers for a ZF LSD (VW) to Canada like 20 bucks several years ago, went to BC though, let me know who needs some. Have Delrin and UHMW also, btw UHMW is know as "poor mans teflon". Glad to help. I'am in Michigan.
rwk
 

mblaney

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Mblaney, I can make these bushing here in the states, know that shipping is bad, and customs form, I shipped some custom thrust washers for a ZF LSD (VW) to Canada like 20 bucks several years ago, went to BC though, let me know who needs some. Have Delrin and UHMW also, btw UHMW is know as "poor mans teflon". Glad to help. I'am in Michigan.
rwk

That is great! The part dimensions are at the beginning of this thread... I suggest that the end user use the belt sander tweak to fit their application.
 

jhenegh

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After removing the grease boot I reinstalled the drag link and measured the space between the ball joint and the tie rod assembly (not square in this pic...). I also measured the link end outer diameter and the height where the original grease seal was pressed. The only dimensions that are important is the overall length, and the fitment to the drag link. OD and ID of the part does not matter.

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And the final assembly before filling with Mercruiser grease
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The drag link now has a very slight wiggle in it, the spacer is about 0.005" short of bottoming which is good enough for me.

Road test: WOW! :love: Completely different handling! From hard over to hard over there is no sensation of binding, straight line steering wheel wander is GONE. Cornering pucker factor is GONE.

My dimensions essentially match these. I don't know what brand my components are as I've never replaced them. The only "difference" is the distance between my tie rod and drag link then the boot is off. But as has been said, a belt sander will make quick work of that.

I'm very interested in getting one. Just make one based off of mblaney 's picture and it will fit mine after some sanding love. (I tore the tie rod boot taking it off so the sooner the better too!)

I'll send a PM as well.

Thanks!!
 

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riotwarrior

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I am back! Sorry for late reply... took the boy out of school to join a bunch of us for an extra long weekend of Crown lands camping, lake trout, and some back country brookies.

I am able to make more of these but I would want to make sure that they fit first (my tre is XRF). @riotwarrior, I can make you another one to fit tighter if you will use it.

For others, shipping to the USA is the killer. If I figure my cost to be $20 each but shipping to the States costs $15 that really sucks. I had hoped that by posting dimensions that someone else State-side could queue up production to at least save on shipping.

Having said that, I did buy stock of Delrin to make these. I will ask Canada Post how much $ to mail these. I know RW's cost about $2.50 but the guy just make it fit through the caliper gauge for an envelope. Add 0.020" to it and he said box package for $15 :mad:

Ya fer sure man...maybe do 2 I can use on on the 2nd diff am building ...

If dolla picks up that fancy setup with Chv tre might have to get invested in....

Thanks btw..n so sorry took me so damn long
 

riotwarrior

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if...if it is cheaper for @mblaney to ship a box internally to me of said pieces. I cam on one of my trips cross to US drop em i a flat rate box to any of ya fellas a d ship 1 for u all to ship out?????
 

laserjock

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So question. Would you want the piece to be a little long so that it compresses sliqhtly when you torque the nut down? It's nylon, I doubt the bottom lip is thick enough that it wouldnt' deform easy enough that it wouldn't effect the torque spec. Is there a reason to not have it that tight? For example jheng has a total height of about 0.6895" Would making the total height 0.7" be too much compression. Its around 10 thou and that's not much on a plastic part. To me fitting tight is a good thing for keeping crud out and grease in since there is no rubber there.
 

mblaney

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@riotwarrior That works for me! OK, I will work on spinning a bunch out over the weekend. I can also ship from the states but I don't go down very often.

@jhenegh got your PM, will be in touch.
 

mblaney

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My dimensions essentially match these. I don't know what brand my components are as I've never replaced them. The only "difference" is the distance between my tie rod and drag link then the boot is off. But as has been said, a belt sander will make quick work of that.

I'm very interested in getting one. Just make one based off of mblaney 's picture and it will fit mine after some sanding love. (I tore the tie rod boot taking it off so the sooner the better too!)

I'll send a PM as well.

Thanks!!

I can also make the (non-TRE) side tapered to sort of allow a crush zone... That would allow a tighter fit for grease sealing. If you have to sand it then you loose the taper but whatever.
 

riotwarrior

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