SRW vs. DRW???

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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The Ford has a Sterling axle, which has flat-faced hubs with no reliefs for coined wheels.


You still have a cheap and easy option to run the coined wheels on the non-coined hub; provided you use the old style conical lug-nuts for centering the wheels.

At junkyards, swap-meets, and behind tire-shops are plenty of old school two-piece split-ring wheels that are coined; these wheels are considered junk and will probably be given to you for the asking.

Cut out and keep the coined lug-nut portions of two of these wheels.

Choose a "best side" to keep and grind the opposite side smooth.

Use this home-made coined adapter/spacer behind the coined wheels;center and torque the whole works with conical nuts.

Occassionally re-check the nuts for torque.

The lugnuts of the Dodge are very similar to those of the Ford, except that they are one-piece design whereas the Ford lugnuts are two-piece.

It looks like you have the solid flanged nuts, then.

Although the coins center the wheels to some extent, the flanged nuts do not allow perfect centering and ride quality issues result.

Dodge put out several TSBs (technical service bulletins) on the solid flanged nuts used with coined wheels.

Their recommendation for proper wheel centering is to first center and torque the wheels, front or rear, with old style conical nuts, then once centered and torqued, replace the conical nuts, one by one, with the flanged nuts and re-torque.

Over on the Dodge forum sites, many that are not the original owners of their Dodge trucks, and had no way of knowing about this TSB business, are completely amazed at the improvement in ride quality after they follow the instructions in the TSB and truly center their wheels, probably for the first time since they have owned the truck. ;Sweet

The Dodge can use the Ford wheels, but the Ford cannot use the Dodge wheels due to the fact they are coined. The Ford can use the Dodge lugnuts, but the Dodge cannot use the Ford's lugnuts due to the fact their shoulder diameter is smaller and will likely not clear the four outboard-facing coined sections of the wheels. Makes any sense? lol


Yes, makes perfect good sense. ;Really
 

Agnem

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You're an old rail-road man; the solution should be obvious. LOL


Rail-head to rail-head is 4-foot 8-1/2-inches.

Hi-Rail pickups have special off-set wheels that will allow the tires of a plain old 3/4-ton SRW truck to be able to contact the rails so as to propel the truck down the track.

Many of these wheels are 19.5; but, sixteens do exist, as many an old worn-out rail-road truck makes it's last stand amongst the poverty-stricken residents of my area and I often see them in the shop ( until, of course, someone says "grab me a set", at which time they will all magically disappear ).

A pair of these Hi-Rail wheels on the inside, coupled with a custom designed set of adapter/spacers made like the J.C.Whitney ones I linked to in an earlier post, and you are all set. ;Sweet


You know it's funny. Last fall Lady Moose was on 5 tires, and that one on the back I kept thinking.... "looks a lot like a high rail truck" and for some reason I just assumed those high rail truck rims were the standard ones. I suppose I will have to inquire with some of my railroad friends and see where that takes me. ;Sweet
 

timothyr1014

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the whole dodge thought is kinda cool....

"yup, and you can even get her with a cummins motor; just make sure you put them lug nuts on each wheel twice"

I think punk was the one who described it as the bullet-proof six banger with a truck that falls apart around it.

sorry, the whole thought just makes me laugh as I am one that likes to do things right the first time, and I could see myself sitting on the side of the road with a flat hunting for the "other lugs" so I could mount my wheels properly...
 

LCAM-01XA

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Damon, that's a good idea for the home-made spacers, I can't see why this wouldn't work. Maybe I'll just do that, I'll have to think about it... The lugnuts on the Dodge right now I ain't worried about, it's a 4x4 truck with a big steel dump bed on the back and an 8ft plow in the front, it never even leaves the property and if it did the speed limit is still 45mph, so I ain't too worried about ride quality there. With coined wheels on the Ford, that may require the other lugnuts indeed, as I use that for long road trips, even tho I drive fairly slow... Thanks for the information tho, I never suspected Dodge could mess things up so bad, lol.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I never suspected Dodge could mess things up so bad, lol.


You have got to give Dodge credit, though, for hanging on to some really good stuff long after others had abandoned it for cheaper/easier options.

For example, of course the B-200 Cummins engine is the star of their show; also, they retained straight-axle/leaf-spring front-ends on 2WD trucks long after Ford and GM had went to the wimpy problematic coil-spring and independent suspensions.

Up until 1994, a genuine king-pin Dana-60 front-axle was standard on 3/4- and 1-ton 4x4, plus the bullet-proof NP205 transfer-case.

Regardless of whether a truck is Ford, Dodge, or Chevy, I don't even consider any of them worth mention after year-model 1993; it seems like 1994 was the beginning of the end so far as good honest trucks were concerned. :confused:
 

crashnzuk

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Not under the frame man, inside the frame - think of it as just plating the inside of the frame rails to box them, the moving the driver-side spring and hangers and all to the inboard side of passenger framerail, and also moving the passenger-side spring and hangers and all to the inboard side of the driver's frame rail. Your ride height don't change, and there should be no need for a flatbed if you just tub the inside fenders (which is pretty much how the military Chevs are done).

I don't think I'd move the springs inside of the rails, they would be too close together for stable handling me thinks.
Travis..
 

LCAM-01XA

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Damon, that's true, I wish my Ford had that W350's driveline, everything on that truck is just beastly! Which means that some day all them parts may just find a way to under the Ford ;)

I don't think I'd move the springs inside of the rails, they would be too close together for stable handling me thinks.
Travis..
Honestly, I'm not quite sure how they went around that issue, maybe a very fat swaybar?
 

Olb Blue Beast

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Well, i find that a dually adds more stability and if yur towin sumthin important (like over $50,000 in race horses) and one of the rear tires blow out, you still have whichever ones left on that side. :hail The only down side is, is that u have 2 more tires to buy, heavy ass brake drums and theres no traction in th winter :(
 

redneckaggie

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dug this one from the depths but 65 if you still interested in a set of 4.10s I have always wanted 3.55s maybe we could work something out... mine is ls and I would def like to have a ls in return though

on edit
nvm mine is 2wd so I doubt you would want different ratios front to back.
 

RLDSL

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Well, i find that a dually adds more stability and if yur towin sumthin important (like over $50,000 in race horses) and one of the rear tires blow out, you still have whichever ones left on that side. :hail The only down side is, is that u have 2 more tires to buy, heavy ass brake drums and theres no traction in th winter :(

Not true really. I ended that myth a couple of years ago by planting a set of four really nasty mudders on the back of my dually. It may eat a bit of fuel, but snow traction is pretty darn good with the thing, expecially with a trailer hoked up on the gooseneck. If I'm just running on snow and not ice traction is really pretty good, on ice, well, nothing short of studs or chains is going to help that anyway.
 

DragRag

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Those hub adapters are looking real nice on the 86' CC 4x4 With your flat bed, and your 5 speed. Did you flip me any other parts for that truck or only those? Hell I can even remember at this point. Oh, I think there are a couple tires on there from you to.
 

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