Spun wheel stud, help!!!

[Knuckledragger]

If the nut is loose enough, grinding a slot to hold the stud should work. If not, I would drill the stud through the nut, then just knock the nut off. A lot less work than grinding the nut or trying to get behind everything to weld.

 

[Goofyexponent]

If the nut is loose enough, grinding a slot to hold the stud should work. If not, I would drill the stud through the nut, then just knock the nut off. A lot less work than grinding the nut or trying to get behind everything to weld.

Can you install a new stud without pulling the hub?

 

[Knuckledragger]

Can you install a new stud without pulling the hub?

On most hubs, yes. I do not know the back spacing for 4x4 hubs, but would expect that there is plenty of room for another stud to be installed.

 

[Diesel_brad]

On most hubs, yes. I do not know the back spacing for 4x4 hubs, but would expect that there is plenty of room for another stud to be installed.

not on a D50 or D60

 

[BigRigTech]

Brad is right, it's a no go unless you pull the hub....I tried when mine had a spun stud.

 

[dyoung14]

Thats why you have 8 studs so when one messes up, you can use 7 then

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I've got this problem with one of the studs on my left front wheel, it's so loose that I can spin it by hand and the nut won't come off.

Any idea on how to get it off and do replacement studs have a slightly larger shoulder area that enables it to stick in the now oversized hole...

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

PS, it's a Dana 60...

You have a problem that we at the tire-shop face almost every day.

What usually causes this is using an "air-gun" impact-wrench instead of proper hand tools; NEVER use an impact-wrench on lug-nuts except in dire circumstances.


About one time in five, the suggestion to remove all the other lugs and pry against the wheel while quickly spinning the nut off with the air-gun that caused the problem in the first place.

I doubt that a hand tool will be quick enough to spin the offending nut off; the slow torque will simply turn the whole works.


Most of the time, we have to use either a torch, cold-chisel, or cut-off wheel, depending on the particular situation.

Any of these methods will result in a highly damaged wheel, especially if it is an aluminum wheel.


The least damaging sure-fire way to set things aright is to remove the bearings and pull the hub, wheel and all, then cut the flanged head off of the stud.


I have even been able to drive the stud through the threads of the nut from the front side, depending on how bad the threads are stripped; the worse shape the threads are, the easier to knock the stud through; this operation must be done only when the whole mess is removed from the spindle.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I forgot to add that, in 90% of cases, this happens with aluminum wheels.

Galvanic corrosion of the dis-similar metals, coupled with the usual cross-threading that occurs when using an impact-wrench, welds the nut firmly to the stud, creating a bond that holds tighter than the stud's grip in the hub.

ALWAYS coat the threads with anti-sieze and NEVER use an air-gun on the nuts and you will never experience this problem.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Hey guys, thank you very much for all of your responses, I appreciate them and hope that I can help someone as you all have helped me...

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Can you install a new stud without pulling the hub?

While somehat possible on some types of hubs/axles, it is poor practice to stack washers onto a stud and try to pull it into place with a wrench.

You just cannot get the stud fully seated in the splines using that method, thus most likely causing the situation that the initial poster is up against.

Plus, the twisting of the nut causes the splines on the stud to go in mis-aligned, thus buggaring up the fit.

It is far the best to lay the hub/axle on the anvil and drive the studs home with a BIG punch or a shop-press if one is available.