Rear ends

[pelky350]

my 10.25 is goin out in my 88 f350 4x4 , I can get a limited slip out of a 92 f250 2x4 for cheap will it work for my truck? Salvage yard says it should. I may need a conversion I joint though?

 

[Thewespaul]

92 is the year they converted to the long pinion 10.25s, early 92s had short but a good amount had the long. They will bolt up, but it’s about 50/50 if you need to shorten the driveshaft. Seems some trucks don’t need it and some do.

 

[gandalf]

The other obvious question is about the gear ratio. You have a 4x4, so you have matching ratios front and rear. Your replacement must have that same gear ratio.

 

[pelky350]

Yes both 355, I have my pick from the yard for 150 and this is the best looking one, appears to have new seals and recent drums on it. Instead of shortening driveline could I just lift truck? I already plan on a lift anyway

 

[catbird7]

While not an expert on this, I think there are other differences. For example I have two sterling rears one from an 87 F250 4x4 and one from 89 F350 4x4 and they require different U-joints. Maybe it's just different yokes? Not sure about drive shaft interchangeability (if the yokes were swapped). The brake drums are also different. Factory aluminum rear covers are interchangeable.

 

[79jasper]

Probably just the yoke. Supposedly 1 tons got 1350(?) Series ujoints, iirc.

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[79jasper]

Probably just the yoke. Supposedly 1 tons got 1350(?) Series ujoints, iirc.

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[catbird7]

That would explain it! Thanks.........

 

[Thewespaul]

And the yokes are interchangeable on all sterlings as far as I’ve seen

 

[pelky350]

Yes my truck has 1350 ones slightly bigger than the yoke on my first one. I swapped yokes unknowing of the issues with crush sleeves as I was mis informed before and destroyed this rear end in 20k. If this one has the smaller f250 u joint can I get a conversion joint? How do I know what one to get? I don't want to take my new axle apart it also appears to have new part s outside I'm gonna pull the cover when I get it to inspect it but not changing yokes I need this one to last

 

[79jasper]

And the yokes are interchangeable on all sterlings as far as I’ve seen

Except maybe short vs long pinion, but I don't know on that one.


Yes, you can get a conversion ujoint.

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[BR3]

1. The yokes are not long/short pinion interchangeable.

2.the auto trucks got 1330 u joints, the manual trucks got 1350.some autos got 1350, but who knows why...doesn't seem to matter 250 or 350, chassis cab excluded due to option variation.

3. 1330 to 1350 u joints can be had at nearly any auto parts store for usually less than $20, i have lost the part number at the moment, I can find it after work, but that will be a while.

4. Make sure to separate the brake line with the slide clip at the frame, there were optional wheel cylinders, but that fitting should be the same for all of them


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[pelky350]

@BR3 thats no excact answere i was looking for! I think my current axle has a short yoke and new one has a long one but my goal was basically to get a conversion join so I didn't have to remove yoke and mess up the pinion bearing load and crush sleeve, want to bolt it in instead of messing around with it and rebuilding etc. this one may hav been recent rebuild I found also because the truck looks clean/taken care of and the pinion seal looks new and clean in comparison to the axle surrounding it. It looked the best of all the rear ends atthw salvage yard and it's a limitied slip! Will be pulling diff cover before instal and change fluids

 

[BR3]

Right. I should have worded it a little better, i was trying to answer the questions with the info that should explain what you might need to make it work. The part number your looking for is 5-648x I believe. There are actually two different 1330 joints though so don't hold me 100% to that.i believe our 1330's are the bigger ones, wich is that part number. Even a high school kid at Auto zone should be able to cross reference that to a house brand in store, and it's exactly what your asking for. Although I would verify Wich series your new axle has first, it may be the same if it came out of a manual transmission truck.

As for driveshaft difference/lifting. Again, Check first, you may not need anything. especially if it's a two piece driveshaft. You certainly can lift it a little to gain the extra distance you need if you do need any.



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[u2slow]

Ford used a version of the 1330 with 1-1/8" cups instead of the standard 1-1/16". Often referred to as 1330C or 1330F.

I would not care what yoke the diff came with since conversion ujoints are readily available. I'd be replacing the crush sleeve with a solid spacer the first time the oil gets changed. Often-times the spline of the yoke has worn, and needs replacing anyway. The 'limited slip' (trac-lok knockoff) has proven to be a useless traction aid for me - works good empty, but does nothing with a good load in the truck.