Rear diff options

[riotwarrior]

gears n rear on coast is ok, any supllier you can get one from would be good

 

[PwrSmoke]

Randy's Ring and Rinion
<http://www.ringpinion.com/>

 

[Kevin 007]

Ordering one from Eastcoastgearsupply for $780. A pwr-lock. I need to know if my axle shafts are a 32 or 35 spline. Not a big deal to pull an axle out but does anyone know offhand which spline count it is??

Thanks

 

[Black dawg]

35 was generally in heavier apps, but as old as this stuff is, better check to be sure.

 

[Kevin 007]

Pulled an axle and it is in fact a 35 spline. Just ordered a Pwr-Lock from Eastcoastgearsupply for $750 shipped (to Canada) Service seemed good. They are going to send me some tips and tricks on the install process; as I have never installed a posi before.

Again, thanks again so much for all the helpfull advice folks, hope I can return the favour one day. I'll post back with results after the install. Probably in a few weeks or so.

 

[laserjock]

East Coast gear is typically good but pricey. That's who I go to if I can't find it anywhere else. They typically have it, whatever it may be.

 

[Kevin 007]

My Dana PowerLok is now installed. I had full intentions to do it on my own but winter came early so I had to take it in to get done.....so...no pictures Anyways, apparently the new carrier was WAY narrower then the factory open unit. So They had to do some major shimming to take up about 1/8'' !!! It took him a LOT longer then he thought to get it in shimmed. New carrier and pinion bearings and 75W90 synthetic; which he claims to be good with LS rears.

Now on to the test drive. The first test was my driveway which is gravel and VERY steep with two switchbacks. The idi was never able to do it in 2WD, not even with 700lbs in the back. Today I tried it with only an empty tidy tank in my box and it did the entire driveway in 2WD with minimal effort. I could hear a few slips of each wheel going back and fourth from side to side so I know its splitting traction well.
Then in an empty gravel parking lot I did a little fish tail and both wheels locked up nicely. On the pavement I can not tell that its in there, no noise at all around corners and of course it will squeel a bit if you walk on it around the corner.
Thats all I have done with it thus far and have no complaints yet!!

 

[dunk]

Glad it's working for you. Now you'll wonder how you ever managed without. 2wd with a locker is like 4wd with open diffs. I always think it's funny some guys get ridiculously huge tires and lifts but won't spend money on their axles. I've found it's the small trucks either stock or only a few inches up with slightly larger tires but lockers in both axles that'll go through anything.

 

[Kevin 007]

Yes I'm really looking forward to it making my life easier in this steep neck of the woods that I live in

 

[Kevin 007]

So, a couple hundred more mile have been put on now of observing how this thing acts. When accelerating moderately around a corner on asphalt (like pulling away from a stop sign and making a 90 degree turn onto a different street) I can feel the inside wheel trying to push also; I can feel it through the entire truck. It doesn't lock up on the asphalt, which is good; but there is some action there. And I found a sheet of ice in a parking lot and doing the same type of turn there, the inside wheel would lock up a bit.
So im not sure if this is how the Pwr-Lock acts or not, just observing and learning still.

 

[Kevin 007]

Ok so, I went for the first long trip with the Pwr-Lok installed. About 350miles of hilly highway, lots of weight lots of curves. So this was the first time the gear oil (synthetic) got up to warm operating temp for any length of time. And I began to notice that when the drivetrain is in reverse load (going down hill, tranny in gear and no throttle input) it will make a metallic, inconsistent grinding/popping noise when turning left. Nothing when turning right. And when accelerating, it's fine; just a bit of a rumble when it's trying to lock up a bit.

So my question is, will these things act different with hot oil? That's the only factor that has changed. I'm running a 75w-90 synthetic. Maybe I need something thicker? I will see how it acts tomorrow when it's cooled off. I'm a little concerned as I'm away from home and have few tools aboard. I'm hoping that I just have the wrong fluid in it or something

Do the clutches/springs need to break in at all?

Thanks guys

 

[dunk]

This is a clutch locker as in friction discs and so forth? If so I never heard one make a peep. Every TracLok I had was quiet when it worked and quiet when they failed and burnt up the clutches. I know with most clutch type lcokers you are supposed to use friction modifier so the plates aren't too slick to grab. Worst that would happen it doesn't lock up as much as it should, and maybe over a longer time wears the clutches out early. These type of locker are typically pretty quiet.

 

[Kevin 007]

Hmm, well....sounds like something is the matter with mine then. Maybe I'll try adding a friction modifier just to see. What's a good brand to use?? I'm not near a Ford dealer

 

[PwrSmoke]

Powr-Loks are noisier and crankier than Trac-Loks because they have more preload in the clutches, plus they have a ramping device that increases preload with torque applied... reverse torque as well. The viscosity of the oil has nothing to do with it. Bottom line, what you are experiencing may be perfectly normal. They are not seamless like the wimpy factory Traction-Loks. Even the almost seamless Truetrac will bark a tire or something now and again. But here are some checks:

Powr-Loks MAY need some LSD additive (which Friction Modifiers or FM that smith out the clutch "break-away" and make the clutches operate more smoothly). Sometimes just a synthetic oil is enough (they are naturally "friction modified"). Auto parts tires will generally have, or can get, the additive (ask for "limited slip additive"). They come in 4 oz bottles. The Ford, GM, Mopar and other brands are essentially all the same and do the same thing. If you can find the Motorcraft brand, it's a good one at a good price but don't be shocked if they offer you an AC Delco or Mopar-branded bottle. They come in 4-oz bottles and you don't want to add any more than you need because if you overdose, it can reduce the oxidation resistance of the oil (a shorter operating life) as well as reduce the effectiveness of the limited slip.

First, before you add anything, go out into an empty parking lot and do some tight figure-8s with light power applied and see if you consistently get some clicking, clanking, chattering or grinding noises. If you do, you should add some FM. One bottle. Go back out and do more figure-8s. That will mix the stuff up and get it between the clutch plates. Sometimes that takes a bit longer than a few figure-8s, so I suggest you drive it for a while even if you still get some chatter. If, after a week of driving, you still get chatter on the figure-8 or in regular driving, add another bottle. It really shouldn't take more than two to make it as good as it can be.

As I said, the Powr-Loks are a little more ill-mannered than the really wimpy factory LS, so you can occasionally get some chatter, tire barking, or other noises. You are hyper-sensitive to them now because you just had work done and you aren't accustomed to "normal" yet. There are always honeymoon periods for the more effective traction aids. You should drive something with a old generation Detroit Locker or Lock Right... you'd swear the rear end was grenaded every time you turned a corner.

 

[Kevin 007]

Thank you for posting Jim, you sure know your stuff!! I will post again later today once I get some additive in it. The reason why I'm concerned all of a sudden is because it just began to get this noisy and ill mannered on this trip, figured something was a miss