Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
still there, i cna say it mostly feels liek the engine is missing. It is fine under 50%-100% throttle but basicaly while jsut mainting crusing speed aorudn 40-50 mph it has a very distinct bucking, and i hear the turbo change sounds along with it. idle is clear, sounds good no missing. When i go off ht efreeway (was doing it a bit at 70 mph cruising too), i coated aorudn the offramp and went back on the fuel it had for a second the LOUD sound, I used ot get when my old tank was nearly empty and it sucked in air.
I am wondering, could it be my main fuel filter? maybe 3-4 weeks old, motorcraft. I DID have a lot of crud on the facet pre filter screen. I am wondering if somehow-there isnt enough fuel getting thru at steady state, but somehow the pressure increases with higher engine load?
Could water in the fuel cause this? I drained the WF yesterday while the truck was runnign for a second or two.
Speaking of water filter, how does the water stay at the bottom of the filter when there is pressure in it??
anyway, I am grabbing a new motorcraft filter at noon today and will change it. Cheap insurance, and i KNOW there was a bunch of crud in the tank. Perhaps some fine sediment got thru the screen filter in the facet and is impeding flow at steady state operation?
I am wondering, could it be my main fuel filter? maybe 3-4 weeks old, motorcraft. I DID have a lot of crud on the facet pre filter screen. I am wondering if somehow-there isnt enough fuel getting thru at steady state, but somehow the pressure increases with higher engine load?
Could water in the fuel cause this? I drained the WF yesterday while the truck was runnign for a second or two.
Speaking of water filter, how does the water stay at the bottom of the filter when there is pressure in it??
anyway, I am grabbing a new motorcraft filter at noon today and will change it. Cheap insurance, and i KNOW there was a bunch of crud in the tank. Perhaps some fine sediment got thru the screen filter in the facet and is impeding flow at steady state operation?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
You have an e-pump meaning fairly constant pressure and flow regardless of engine speed or load, thus I kinda doubt your problem is fuel delivery related if she can run good at wide open throttle. I'm gonna go with the IP on that one, unknown history and possibly worn out inside, maybe it's not metering fuel properly when at low throttle?
You can always try giving her a good cleaner soaking session overnight, you know the drill there.
You can always try giving her a good cleaner soaking session overnight, you know the drill there.
I throw a new filte ron jus tnow. APPEARS to be ok now...i cant tell for sure, drive home will tell. Also feels ot have more power. again..could just be placebo.
Well see how it does on drive home, if still does weird things, soak it in ATF and stanadyne. dtill bad, ill try my spare pump. if thats bad, well...time to get an rd2
Well see how it does on drive home, if still does weird things, soak it in ATF and stanadyne. dtill bad, ill try my spare pump. if thats bad, well...time to get an rd2
ok, so-truck definitely feels faster
but, surging is still there.
I will be swapping out for my spare pump eventually, at some point.
I refuse to retard my pump, the mileage is just unacceptable.
Who knows what the new pump will run at. I need to buy a timing meter, renting them is just too expensive every time you want to changfe something around
but, surging is still there.
I will be swapping out for my spare pump eventually, at some point.
I refuse to retard my pump, the mileage is just unacceptable.
Who knows what the new pump will run at. I need to buy a timing meter, renting them is just too expensive every time you want to changfe something around
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Expensive is one thing, the other is if you need it right now it doesn't happen, unless Icanfixall has just recently discovered teleportation and is just holding out on us 
Way offtopic here, when you bumped your timing from 8.5 to 9.2 degs, how much did you actually had to turn the pump?
And if you think your truck is being weird, explain to me this - ours can blow black smoke (not like a coal train, that would be pretty horrible) in 1st and 2nd gear all the way till like 2500 if we keep the pedal down hard, but in 3rd and 4th there's barely anything. The gearing advantage is clearly better in the lower gears, so at least in theory there should be less engine load down there then if we put the hammer down in 3-5. Yet there's no smoke in the high gears, but quite noticeable in the low ones. And there's no turbo at play here, so it's nothing like our Fummins that hazes even at idle but once the hair dryer picks up speed she clears perfectly regardless of engine load... And of course the IDI wasn't doing anything funny before I decided to mess with it
Way offtopic here, when you bumped your timing from 8.5 to 9.2 degs, how much did you actually had to turn the pump?
And if you think your truck is being weird, explain to me this - ours can blow black smoke (not like a coal train, that would be pretty horrible) in 1st and 2nd gear all the way till like 2500 if we keep the pedal down hard, but in 3rd and 4th there's barely anything. The gearing advantage is clearly better in the lower gears, so at least in theory there should be less engine load down there then if we put the hammer down in 3-5. Yet there's no smoke in the high gears, but quite noticeable in the low ones. And there's no turbo at play here, so it's nothing like our Fummins that hazes even at idle but once the hair dryer picks up speed she clears perfectly regardless of engine load... And of course the IDI wasn't doing anything funny before I decided to mess with it
LCAM, the issue with our trucks is-like you mentioned, we messed with them lol. My engine ran fine (minus failing fan clutch) before messing with it lol. Gutless, but ran and started mint.
i bumped it a hair, I made a dimple mark at 8.5 on the pump, pushed it over X amount, saw im at 9.2, made another mark and it was almost on top of the other one. So really-a dime's width.
You know what I AM wondering though is-since the pump is old, no doubt about that, do I have to do a "static" advance on it for it to have dynamic timing of 9.2 degrees, which ends up putting your total light load advance way too high-similar to a distributor.
I know on the mustang, I need ALOT of initial timing, and then with vacuum advance i was way way too advance for part throttle cruising, I had to put a limit cam init and recurve it so it didnt buck me out of the seat. hmm.
i bumped it a hair, I made a dimple mark at 8.5 on the pump, pushed it over X amount, saw im at 9.2, made another mark and it was almost on top of the other one. So really-a dime's width.
You know what I AM wondering though is-since the pump is old, no doubt about that, do I have to do a "static" advance on it for it to have dynamic timing of 9.2 degrees, which ends up putting your total light load advance way too high-similar to a distributor.
I know on the mustang, I need ALOT of initial timing, and then with vacuum advance i was way way too advance for part throttle cruising, I had to put a limit cam init and recurve it so it didnt buck me out of the seat. hmm.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
So basically your concern is that below 2000 RPMs the pump's advancing mechanism isn't working properly? That could be, I seem to recall years ago the Moose Master was having some issues with the advance on our (reman fresh off the Uhaul shelves at the time) pump, don't remember what it was doing only it was something it's not supposed to. Then later one of our friends timed it again cause it was thousands of miles later and new injectors had settled in and what not, and he didin't mention anything about the advance not working like it should... But point is, yes, it is possible to have a screwy timing action inside there.
Dime's width, ok. Gonna mess with it some more, several hundred miles till our next destination so good test run it will be. Now, if she would also stop leaking while at it... I got the gut feeling she'll be running the rest of the trip 2qts low till we hit the mountains
Dime's width, ok. Gonna mess with it some more, several hundred miles till our next destination so good test run it will be. Now, if she would also stop leaking while at it... I got the gut feeling she'll be running the rest of the trip 2qts low till we hit the mountains
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
I literally just read this last page... But something jumped out at me. I had a similar surge problem, and it was *almost* filter related:
When I went around a hard turn it surged a little after. I found out it was a combo of showerhead in tank/ball check valve in filterhead problems... The showerhead let the air in on the hard turn, and the faulty ball check wouldn't purge the air before injecting it into the IP.
Probably nit the culprit, but thought I'd share anyway.
When I went around a hard turn it surged a little after. I found out it was a combo of showerhead in tank/ball check valve in filterhead problems... The showerhead let the air in on the hard turn, and the faulty ball check wouldn't purge the air before injecting it into the IP.
Probably nit the culprit, but thought I'd share anyway.
where is this checkball n filterhead?
backrack frame work complete minus end caps 2x1x1/8" . bottom will be 1/8" plate, top 1" flat expanded mesh. Few D rings on the sides to strap stuff against it. Bolted to the flatbed using 12 1/2" gr8 bolts.
i reall yneed a proper flat welding table. working on this unlevel concretre sucks. Tools tools and tables. Can never have to many. Currently trying to find a deal on a wood mitre saw and router. Building a 9' long by almost 6' high by 19" deep stand for my 125gal aquarium. Will be totally "encased" in this nice nook of my family room. hinged beuty hood too.Too..many..projects. I gotta get that bumper finished too, paint, rear seats etc etc..
backrack frame work complete minus end caps 2x1x1/8" . bottom will be 1/8" plate, top 1" flat expanded mesh. Few D rings on the sides to strap stuff against it. Bolted to the flatbed using 12 1/2" gr8 bolts.
i reall yneed a proper flat welding table. working on this unlevel concretre sucks. Tools tools and tables. Can never have to many. Currently trying to find a deal on a wood mitre saw and router. Building a 9' long by almost 6' high by 19" deep stand for my 125gal aquarium. Will be totally "encased" in this nice nook of my family room. hinged beuty hood too.Too..many..projects. I gotta get that bumper finished too, paint, rear seats etc etc..
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Waystro
No Class
Is that a BMW in the back ground?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
The check ball should be behind the air purge valve in the filter head. Our truck had no such beast, yours being the newer filter head could very well have one.
You have a flat bed, why do you need a welding table?
May wanna weld in some mounts for high-mount lighting on that rack, you'll need at least a pair of floods for backing up and a pair of S/T/T lamp is not a bad idea either (they can save you from a ticket if your trailer harness connector comes undone for whatever reason).Really?
It's a notchback foxie, I'd venture a guess it's also the reason for the "5OH" (for 5.0) in his username here...Similar threads
