65sixbanger
Full Access Member
I think they are talking about the crossmember right under the oil pan, dont know why youd have to remove flywheel and trans with either crossmember though. You could simply jack the tranny up....
Pulling the oil pan with motor in truck?
- Thread starter Cincinnati Guy
- Start date
I think they are talking about the crossmember right under the oil pan, dont know why youd have to remove flywheel and trans with either crossmember though. You could simply jack the tranny up....
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
Well while changing the oil over this past weekend I shot some engine cleaner on the bottom half of the motor to remove all the leaked out oil. Its still leaking really cant see where its coming from, I really think the fan is screwing me up!!! So the motor is getting pulled memorial day weekend to find this leak, because I cant stand leaks.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Is the leak mostly dripping from the passenger rear side of the block. If so it just might be the valley pan where the turbo oil drain line is. Any oil our water or fuel in the valley pan will leak out the back of the motor and run down the passenger side over the starter. When you get the motor out you will find this drain pan hole. Its a really bad design how it pours crap all down the back of the motor.
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
Is it happens to be the valley pan leaking whats the fix for it? You got a picture of this drain pan hole? So its just an open hole in the back of the valley pan? Does the oil from the turbo go back in the valley pan and back up and go out the back hole?
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
I looked again today and there is fresh oil thinly coating the whole deep side of the oil pan, and its all over the crossover pipe. When Pulling hills and getting my EGT up I can smell it burning on the pipe...Phew Wee...
I did a little research and ive heard about punching holes in the valley pan? Is that what you do to fix this?
I did a little research and ive heard about punching holes in the valley pan? Is that what you do to fix this?
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
I may pull my turbo off tomorrow and see if its the turbo drain. Got under the truck again and the oil pan is covered, the starter is soaked and the crossover pipe. I was able to see the dipstick tube, no leak, and the valve cover with again no leak, there is no leak at my turbo oil feed line in the side of the block, and no leak on the oil cooler as its bone dry...My oil pan really dont appear to actually be leaking also....More and more Im thinking oil drain, we will find out tomorrow finally. I am tired of wasting oil...
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
About punching holes in the valley pan. Use an ice pick or scratchall. Don't try to dril holes because that leaves bits of metal in the oil pan. These holes are in the cdr-turbo drain hole in the pan. You just push down thru the layers of metal. How many is up the you. Others will chime in with how many they felt would work. When the turbo is off you will see the rear pan drain with the 3/8 inch hex in it. That drains any trapped fluid in the pan out the bellhousing and runs down over the passenger side of the block. Then the starter takes a bath. Hopefully your motor still has that drain plug with the 3/8 hole in it. Nobody makes nor sells them any longer. Years ago I did a search thru Ford and found 110 left. I bought 11 of them right then. Spare parts that are no longer made are good parts to have on hand. I know of only one member that lost his so he didn't install it....
Found he had a but oil leak after his rebuild....
Found he had a but oil leak after his rebuild....Michael Fowler
Registered User
I did a write-up on removing the pan with the engine in the truck several years ago--maybe its archived over at the "other" site.
Having done it, I will NEVER do it again. Much better to pull the engine. I beat my head up so many times trying to get in a better position. You also have to make up a special LONG wrench to undo the oil pump bolts.
Think about this--the FSM tells you to unbolt the oil pump and drop it into the oil pan. A few lines later comes to line, " Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly."
Yes, you CAN do it, but IMO, its just not worth it.
Pull the engine.
Better yet, make very sure its the oil pan that is leaking.
Having done it, I will NEVER do it again. Much better to pull the engine. I beat my head up so many times trying to get in a better position. You also have to make up a special LONG wrench to undo the oil pump bolts.
Think about this--the FSM tells you to unbolt the oil pump and drop it into the oil pan. A few lines later comes to line, " Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly."
Yes, you CAN do it, but IMO, its just not worth it.
Pull the engine.
Better yet, make very sure its the oil pan that is leaking.
+!.
I raised the body on my '92 due to the fact the turbo uppipe on my ATS wouldn't separate.
disconnect the brake master from the booster,
remove the fan clutch and upper radiator hose,
steering shaft from the steering column,
four body bolts and two radiator support bolts.
lift body and insert 4x4 spacer blocks between the body and body mount and you're good to go.
those few inches make all the difference in the world.
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
My truck has been sitting about 4 hours cooling off!! Its still freaking hot under the hood, well beings its about 90 out dont help. So far all I got off was the breather, and intake hat and hoses, still really cant see much....
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
Got the turbo off, kinda wondering how im gonna get it back together now. I also took a few pictures of the leak....Still unsure where its coming from. does it look like its from the turbo drain?
The Block heater and dip stick dry as a bone...
A little oily?
The oil pan looks like its not leaking to me.
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The Block heater and dip stick dry as a bone...
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A little oily?
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The oil pan looks like its not leaking to me.
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Well those are some great pictures. You have the valley drain nut with the 3/8 inch hex in it. Try tightening it up but. It really looks clean around the turbo drain gromet from the oil washing it off. Does the oil drain line fit tight into the gromet or does it slide in easily. Remove the gromet and clean it with brakeclean. Then punch some holes in the drain hole with a ice pick. Use some permatex copper plus rtv on the valley pan to gromet seal. Let it try for about 2 hours. Then apply a large bead of it on the steel drain line so when it touches the gromet it creates a seal. Hopefully all this will cure the oil leak. You can pour some fuel into the valley pan drain and watch how it runs out behind the block flange and down on the starter now... A very bad design from some great engineer at international....
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
Will do. I also plan on tightening up the oil pan bolts, and attempt to clean it up again and see if it does it more. Would the rear seal make it leak like this?
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
I used an awl and punched some holes, I didn't take the grommet out because I was afraid to break it. How you suppose I get my hands in there to silicone it up when I put the turbo back in? OR Just throw silicone on the grommet and the tip of the drain tube and wiggle into place? I made sure that drain nut was tight and it was. It got dark on me so I took my turbo in the garage and redid all the fittings with new Teflon tape and silicone the drain tube to turbo and the top piece where all the oil fittings bolt onto the turbo.
