Proper heater core line hookup.

[furfishgame]

I have a 1990 7.3, the heater sucks, (take into account it is winter in alaska) the guy i bought it from said he replaced the heater core, though he also said he isnt much of a mechanic, anyway.

I cant find i diagram saying which hose goes where, i have a line comming from the front of engine below oil fill cap (water pump?) the other goes into engine block above passanger side exhaust manifold.

The one comming from water pump is going into the driver side fitting on my core, the line from the block above exhaust manifold attaches to fitting on the passanger side of the core. (far right facing engine) is this the correct hookup?

Also, My temp guage only gets between first line and the "N" on my gauge, but all my lines are plenty hot so i dont see this being the issue as it stays there no matter if its 90 degrees or 0... Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[riotwarrior]

Heater core dont know in out....

Flow goes from fitting on head to core from core to pump.

There is a restrictor in fitting in head...could be plugged.

STOCK Guage is useless...get real guage and kmow it is at 194 deg or what ever...

Do you have a cover for grille?

Unkown what thermostat is in it if stock or aftermarket

FORD AND IH are the only tstats to use...make sure check ball is functioning...

Use search...tons of great stuff to be had here if u dig a bit

 

[OLDBULL8]

The way your heater hoses are hooked is correct. There is a fresh air door operated by a vacuum motor next to the firewall under the hood, make sure the vacuum line is hooked up and the motor is operating. As Riot said, pull the t'stat and make sure it's a Motorcraft or an IH one. This (pic) is the only configuration t'stat that should be used. The copper slug closes off the bypass hole, shown in pic of t'stat mounting. It's important that the check ball in the t'stat neck is there and free, should rattle when shaken.

I like your user name, it's a survival kit in Alaska.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i think it's a magazine.looks like a good one too.

You must be registered for see images attach

you can also do a quick test to insure your core isn't plugged up.unhook your core.blow into one side with a hose hooked up and make sure your air can blow right out the other side really easy.if not,then someones not been doing proper coolant maintenance and you'll need a new core probably and see about cleaning the rest of the system.........then properly maintaining sca levels.

 

[icanfixall]

If the heater core is not leaking I suggest not changing it. But if you must its really easy. Just remove the glove box and use a 5/16 nut driver wrench to remove the cover. Remove the hoses and pull the core out from inside the truck. Do check the doors for operation once the core is removed. The heated coolant comes out of the passenger side head and enters the core. Then is goes out back to the top of the water pump. Your engine cooling hoses MAY have the return hose that goes back to the water pump branch off to the lower radiator tank. All that does is warms up the auto trans faster. The hose is restricted where it enters the lower tank. As for the type of thermostat you might be using I suggest purchasing the correct one for Ford or International. We only can buy one type temp and that is the 192 degree oem part. ANY OTHER THERMOSTAT IS WRONG. Some Chinese made ones look like the oem part but they sure fail in short order.

 

[furfishgame]

Thanks guys! Another question. I pulled my thermostat and there was a copper ring that came off when i pulled it out, (and the ring was cracked, lol) does that go back on my new thermostat? Thr new motorcraft doesnt come with onr..

 

[riotwarrior]

Pics???

 

[furfishgame]

How do i post pix?

 

[furfishgame]

Also my new t stat doesnt rattle when i shake it....

 

[riotwarrior]

There is a thermostat thread in tech articles...read it..tstat sgould not rattle.

Sounds like was a non Ford tstat.

Should be good to go.

Pix...get photobucket acc n upload there then copy past img tags here or choose advanced and upload pix as attachments

 

[junk]

Yeah rattle is bad. I've never seen a copper ring when replacing thermostats. Sounds like thermostat is failed.

Also do you have a tank heater installed in the heater hoses? I've got a car with a tank heater installed and they did it wrong so all the heat bypasses the heater core. Just something to check.

 

[furfishgame]

Lol i just realised they ment the thermostat housing... That bb that sits in there. Im a idiot haha im guessing it was just a crap thermostat....

 

[OLDBULL8]

Also my new t stat doesnt rattle when i shake it....

I didn't say the t'stat should rattle, it's the neck you took off to replace the t'stat. Look at the side that bolts on, there is a little hole with a ball bearing in it, shake it, it should RATTLE.

 

[furfishgame]

Whelp i feel like a idiot for going 2 winters with a crap heater, all it was was my door by the heater core... The line going to it i guess got stretched out and wasnt shutting it all the way, adjusted the cable, and now i just about burn up in the cab. Now to fix my fuel returnline leak.... Thanks for the help everybody!

 

[icanfixall]

Whelp i feel like a idiot for going 2 winters with a crap heater, all it was was my door by the heater core... The line going to it i guess got stretched out and wasnt shutting it all the way, adjusted the cable, and now i just about burn up in the cab. Now to fix my fuel returnline leak.... Thanks for the help everybody!

Sometimes this is how we learn. I know I have found the real problems to some issues after replacing other things. Funny how that works. Glad you found and fixed the problem AND... Got a new correct thermostat...