Project Blue Goose Build Thread

[riotwarrior]

Buy a socket

Remove tq cnv

Siper simple

Do not over complicate a simple situation....those that have done this know there is no reason not to remove it ....we speak and encorage from experience.

Besidss...its a reason to invest in more tools and that is ALWAYS a plus!!!

JM2CW

 

[sassyrel]

^^^^^^
This
I'll do what riotwarrior suggested.
Sounds like the easiest way.

soo many things id like to say to that,,but..................

 

[riotwarrior]

soo many things id like to say to that,,but..................

Go ahead....say it lol

 

[sassyrel]

also, a GOOD six point socket......O N L Y!!!! short one,,and ratchet,,and may need a pipe on that.. ive never seen tq bolts that tight,,in all my years of wrenching.......

 

[IDIoit]

could be that someone loctighted them together.
6 pointers only!
i have a special set of sockets with a 5/8 hex on the end for these special occasions.
matched with a 5/8 6 point box end wrench

 

[OLDBULL8]

1986 F-250 Ex Cab Xlt Lariat 6.9 Diesel N/A C6 automatic/Shiftkit Just so I know what you have.

I've never seen a TC that is "bolted on", AFAIK, all TC's are studded with 1/2" or 13mm nuts, the nuts are kind of tapered, the socket better fit tight or you'll round them off. Use a 2" deep well six point socket with a rachet to remove them. On a cast iron flywheel like you have, use a screw driver on the starter gear to pry/turn it until the hole where the nut is around to the bottom for each nut. Remove nut, pry around again to next nut, take's three times to do that. Slide TC back into the trans, pull the F*&(k engine out then.

 

[OLDBULL8]

When you have the engine out, mark the location of the flywheel so it goes back on in the same location, remove flywheel, it's heavy, put engine on engine stand and go at it on the rebuild. Happy wrenching.

 

[IDIoit]

When you have the engine out, mark the location of the flywheel so it goes back on in the same location, remove flywheel, it's heavy, put engine on engine stand and go at it on the rebuild. Happy wrenching.

don't the bolt holes on the crank only allow it to go on 1 way?

 

[BDCarrillo]

don't the bolt holes on the crank only allow it to go on 1 way?

On 7.3's, yes, but marking it makes life easier. On other engines, some of the holes can be barely misaligned and the fasteners forced in...

For E4ODs:
It's super easy to get a straight shot at the TC nuts from the drivers side... turn the motor till the nut is right below the edge of the bellhousing and you can put a regular socket and extensions on it. That's "Nut at 8' o clock looking from the back of the motor, or 4' o clock from the front.

I would recommend realigning the dowel pins and popping in a bellhousing bolt or two to keep it from jacking up the snout of the converter if it's already lifted cockeyed.

What would you rather finagle? two ~6" input shafts into the TC plus the keyed snout on the pump (if removing engine with TC attached), or four studs a half inch long (TC removed)?

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

oh interesting.am i looking at this pic correctly;
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58502&stc=1&d=1438863912

that the converter nuts are recessed inside some type of spacer/adapter for the c6's?
w/ the e4 that's not there.just a converter bolted directly to the flexplate with the nuts sticking right out at ya.

 

[Waystro]

oh interesting.am i looking at this pic correctly;
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58502&stc=1&d=1438863912

that the converter nuts are recessed inside some type of spacer/adapter for the c6's?
w/ the e4 that's not there.just a converter bolted directly to the flexplate with the nuts sticking right out at ya.

Yes it's about from the tip of my finger to the knuckle deep. No room for a box end wrench I'll try a socket again.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Definitely try turning it to the 4 o' clock... unless the stud circle diameter is tiny on the C6, you still ought be able to hit it straight on with a socket.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Don't know how far along you getting on pulling that engine or even the TC disconnected, but ya better put some bolts back in, bellhousing to engine. Then disconnect the TC. if you keep going like your showing, you have a good chance of breaking the input shaft and screwing up the pump shaft and bearing. Look at pic how things are lined up

It's almost impossible to keep things in alignment to pull apart the engine from the transmission with the TC still connected to the flywheel.

 

[Waystro]

Got the torque converter unbolted. Turned engine with socked and wrench pretty easy.
Now I just have to disconnect linkage and she's ready to come out.

 

[riotwarrior]

Good stuff...waiting for pics out