Project Big Red

[laserjock]

The hard part is the power supply.

 

[marmot]

PLEASE! post up your method. I would love to know what type of power supply you used. I have an old variac and an even older potentiometer from the 40's Seems like they would work. Love your build btw good to see the cab back on it.

 

[IDIoit]

The hard part is the power supply.

if its anything like the process of electrolysis, a battery charger would work.
it looks like the same type of set up.
polarize the plastic tub,
and the work separately and let it cook.

 

[marmot]

Yep looks easy but you need to figure out the amperage that works best so a battery charger and a potentiometer ie variable resistor. A dimmer switch is a variable resistor.

 

[laserjock]

It's got to be DC guys. [emoji6]

It depends on the size of the part as to the current you need. Battery charger can work but really you need to be able to regulate it. You don't want the voltage. Just the amperage. Once I refine it a bit, I'll do a how to.

 

[marmot]

Thanks for sharing your setup with us, cool. Battery charger=DC V=IR so therfore I =V/R thats why a potentiometer or dimmer would work well I think steady voltage variable resistance and you can change the amperage easily.with a dimmer. Cant wait to see your set up. I want to plate some old parts this summer so I'm watching

 

[laserjock]

I did a tech 101 style write-up on the zinc plating. Honestly, I think it has some advantages over the nickel. It's a little less finicky wrt conditions and it's a sacrificial coating so if it gets scratched, there is still electrochemical protection. The nickel is harder to scratch but no anodic protection. All depends on what you are doing. Also, if you can't get every spec of rust off, zinc is probably a little better choice.

Here is a link to it. I've done a lot of my parts this way.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showpost.php?p=788738

 

[junk]

that nickel plating looked awesome!

Also it's gotta feel good to have the cab back on. I know that was a huge step for me. A loose cab is really hard to work around and I'm always afraid I'm going to damage it.

Well Done!!

 

[laserjock]

Yes it does feel good. Feels like a truck again and not just a huge pile of parts.

 

[junk]

You getting a Promar engine? Not sure what they cost, but back in like 99 or 2000 I put a drop in diesel from Dealers diesels in my truck. It was probably the best money i'd spent. Cost me close to 5K, but it was completely rebuilt and dyno run before I got it. All it needed was fuel and a starter to run. It was complete top to bottom. Fuel system had been setup everything. at the time for like 2K more I could have had a turbo, but I was out of my league on the 5K engine let alone another 2K for a turbo system.

So longer story long if they will dyno run the engine before you get it I'd be all over that. If you build a turbo system for it how does that affect their warranty?

- Jeremy

 

[laserjock]

I am planning the promar engine. I need to call and talk to them again. Not sure if the turbo will affect the warranty but I doubt it. It's just a long block but with the goodies I want.

 

[laserjock]

Got 3 of the 4 cab corners bolted down. Somehow, half of a bushing has gone missing. [emoji35]

More tomorrow I hope.

 

[IDIoit]

which one? i still have some left overs. from when i scrapped the rest of that cab

 

[laserjock]

It's half a new urethane bushing. I'll find it. It's in this hole I call a garage somewhere. I had it when I went to set the cab. This is what happens when you take a 2 week break. [emoji35]. I'm sure I probably put it up somewhere.

 

[IDIoit]

i have the exact same problem, red urethane bottom floating around somewhere, ive cleaned the shop about a million times, that damn thing is MIA