65sixbanger
Full Access Member
I just my truck aligned as I was having the same problems. The drives side Tie Rod was bent like crazy. He said the wheels were fighting each other trying to go in a straight line.
Power steering pump and alignment issues
- Thread starter david85
- Start date
david85
Full Access Member
Alignment shop + twin I beam = bad things
Last time I took my F150 in for alignment, they put 1/4" of toe in on the front end. Right then I decieded to never take any of my vehicles in ever again. Maybe you had better experiences, but the shops here haven't earned my trust.
Steering column is nice and loose and I can swing the steering shaft from under the hood of the truck without any drag felt from inside the firewall. I can disconnect the steering shaft from the steering box and basically spin the wheel freely. Nothing drags, and tilting never affected anything. No slack in the column either.
There is no steering dampener on the truck.
I heard about changing the caster with an aftermarket radius arm bushing but I have to think that these trucks didn't drive this way from factory. My understanding is that these trucks are still designed with manual steering in mind and as such have very little caster angle to reduce effort when manouvering without power boost. Its rare, but some trucks in this era didn't have power steering. Probably doesn't take much stiffness to cause this condition.
Quite frustrating though, because with the truck on blocks, the wheels are quite easy to turn by pushing against the tires. Maybe I'll try making movements with the truck in the air with one side disconnected to see if I feel any difference or added drag. Not much work this week, so I might have time tomorrow to dig a little deeper. I'll check to see if the tie rods are bent at all.
Something I should add is this truck was used for towing a 5th wheel travel trailer by the PO (all over the continent actually). Is it possible that he had the front end changed to account for the added weight of the trailer? The truck does seem to track better when there is a heavier load in the back.
Last time I took my F150 in for alignment, they put 1/4" of toe in on the front end. Right then I decieded to never take any of my vehicles in ever again. Maybe you had better experiences, but the shops here haven't earned my trust.
Steering column is nice and loose and I can swing the steering shaft from under the hood of the truck without any drag felt from inside the firewall. I can disconnect the steering shaft from the steering box and basically spin the wheel freely. Nothing drags, and tilting never affected anything. No slack in the column either.
There is no steering dampener on the truck.
I heard about changing the caster with an aftermarket radius arm bushing but I have to think that these trucks didn't drive this way from factory. My understanding is that these trucks are still designed with manual steering in mind and as such have very little caster angle to reduce effort when manouvering without power boost. Its rare, but some trucks in this era didn't have power steering. Probably doesn't take much stiffness to cause this condition.
Quite frustrating though, because with the truck on blocks, the wheels are quite easy to turn by pushing against the tires. Maybe I'll try making movements with the truck in the air with one side disconnected to see if I feel any difference or added drag. Not much work this week, so I might have time tomorrow to dig a little deeper. I'll check to see if the tie rods are bent at all.
Something I should add is this truck was used for towing a 5th wheel travel trailer by the PO (all over the continent actually). Is it possible that he had the front end changed to account for the added weight of the trailer? The truck does seem to track better when there is a heavier load in the back.
tknomaj
Registered User
it tracks better with weight david due to change of caster the symptoms you describe are bad return wander bump steer all problems with no or little caster angle find a good alignment shop and have it checked post measurements please. king pins sound ok. ck tierod ends have seen those bind and cause some of what is going on but get good alignment measurements .
david85
Full Access Member
There are no shops around here that I trust, but I will do my best to measure the caster angle and post what I find.
tknomaj
Registered User
david is their a bmw dealer or bmw certified repair body shop these would have the newer hunter alignment machines and are great for getting solid measurements that is all we need at this time and i understand about not trusting most people doing alignments most do not understand what they are doing or the measurments kind of like the kid at autozone can puch keys on computer and the new machines have a buttom that shows what to loosen and turn rocket science via key board
david85
Full Access Member
Closest BMW dealer is over 100 miles away, and I don't think they even have a service shop. Campbell River is a relatively small urban center. Basically semi rural.
I do have some good tools from our metal fab shop that are pretty accurate though.
My book goes as high as 1985, but the cut off for caster info is 1979:***:
Do you know what I should be looking for? Older fords call for 4 degrees, but I suspect 1986 is less..
I do have some good tools from our metal fab shop that are pretty accurate though.
My book goes as high as 1985, but the cut off for caster info is 1979:***:
Do you know what I should be looking for? Older fords call for 4 degrees, but I suspect 1986 is less..
tknomaj
Registered User
caster is a angle that can only be measured with wheel on vehicle and by turning wheels from the straight forward position to right or left depending on what side you are on a bubble gauge that attaches to spindle could be used but if far from accurate the rear wheels and front brakes would have to be locked to prevent movement of vehicle and the vehicle would have to be on flat surface and on a turntable . a 3ft square piece of plywood also works when smothered in axle /bearing grease once we know what the caster angles are we can work on correction
david85
Full Access Member
So do you know what the stock caster angle should be?
Alex S
Jeoff
3-4 should be fine
tknomaj
Registered User
Notes Caster
Note: Side to side caster readings must be within 1 1/2 (degrees), when truck frame to axle riding height is such that right hand side is from 0 to .2 inch than left-hand side.
Ride Height 2.7 in +6 1/8 to 7 1/8 deg
2.9 in +5 1/2 to 7 1/8 deg
3.1 in +5 1/8 to 7 1/8 deg
3.3 in +4 1/2 to 6 1/2 deg
3.5 in +4 1/8 to 6 1/8 deg
3.7 in +3 5/8 to 5 5/8 deg
3.9 in +3 1/8 to 5 1/8 deg
4.1 in +3 1/8 to +4 1/2 deg
4.3 in +3 1/8 to 4 1/8 deg
Note: Side to side caster readings must be within 1 1/2 (degrees), when truck frame to axle riding height is such that right hand side is from 0 to .2 inch than left-hand side.
Ride Height 2.7 in +6 1/8 to 7 1/8 deg
2.9 in +5 1/2 to 7 1/8 deg
3.1 in +5 1/8 to 7 1/8 deg
3.3 in +4 1/2 to 6 1/2 deg
3.5 in +4 1/8 to 6 1/8 deg
3.7 in +3 5/8 to 5 5/8 deg
3.9 in +3 1/8 to 5 1/8 deg
4.1 in +3 1/8 to +4 1/2 deg
4.3 in +3 1/8 to 4 1/8 deg
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
TKnomaj, where is that ride height measured at? for instance the first set of numbers, for ride height of 2.7" we want +6-1/8 to +7-1/8 degrees of caster, what does the ride height number refer to?
HammerDown
Full Access Member
Yup...and quite scary at times!
82F100SWB
Full Access Member
The one thing I haven't seen you mention is your toe, what is it set at? If it's too close to zero, you can have just this issue happen. 1/32" plus or minus 4/32" is spec.
david85
Full Access Member
about 1/8" if I remember right, maybe a little less. I got busy again though, so it will probably be the weekend at the earliest before I can even touch the truck (other than to drive it).
hahn_rossman
Hahn Rossman
David-
I'm currently involved in the same struggle with my truck. My symptom is a little different than yours however. I have to constantly correct it to stay centered. I read quite a bit about caster angle and its easy to measure if you have a level that will read out in degrees, or you can use a bubble level and some trig. The idea is to measure the camber angle with the wheels turned twenty or so degrees one way and then the exactly same amount the other way. The difference in the camber angles allows you to calculate the caster angle. Then you can buy bushings to correct your condition. I believe that setting it for the max factory spec will be my next move once I make a simple jig for holding the digital level on the wheel.
I'm currently involved in the same struggle with my truck. My symptom is a little different than yours however. I have to constantly correct it to stay centered. I read quite a bit about caster angle and its easy to measure if you have a level that will read out in degrees, or you can use a bubble level and some trig. The idea is to measure the camber angle with the wheels turned twenty or so degrees one way and then the exactly same amount the other way. The difference in the camber angles allows you to calculate the caster angle. Then you can buy bushings to correct your condition. I believe that setting it for the max factory spec will be my next move once I make a simple jig for holding the digital level on the wheel.
