Power steering pump and alignment issues

[Hybrid455]

Alignment shop + twin I beam = bad things

Last time I took my F150 in for alignment, they put 1/4" of toe in on the front end. Right then I decieded to never take any of my vehicles in ever again. Maybe you had better experiences, but the shops here haven't earned my trust.

Steering column is nice and loose and I can swing the steering shaft from under the hood of the truck without any drag felt from inside the firewall. I can disconnect the steering shaft from the steering box and basically spin the wheel freely. Nothing drags, and tilting never affected anything. No slack in the column either.

There is no steering dampener on the truck.

I heard about changing the caster with an aftermarket radius arm bushing but I have to think that these trucks didn't drive this way from factory. My understanding is that these trucks are still designed with manual steering in mind and as such have very little caster angle to reduce effort when manouvering without power boost. Its rare, but some trucks in this era didn't have power steering. Probably doesn't take much stiffness to cause this condition.

Quite frustrating though, because with the truck on blocks, the wheels are quite easy to turn by pushing against the tires. Maybe I'll try making movements with the truck in the air with one side disconnected to see if I feel any difference or added drag. Not much work this week, so I might have time tomorrow to dig a little deeper. I'll check to see if the tie rods are bent at all.

Something I should add is this truck was used for towing a 5th wheel travel trailer by the PO (all over the continent actually). Is it possible that he had the front end changed to account for the added weight of the trailer? The truck does seem to track better when there is a heavier load in the back.

David,
I should qualify myself I suppose, I'm a Ford Senior Master Tech with over thirty years experience bustin my knuckles on these things. You may have something with the manual steering theory I don't know. I haven't heard of it before but thats whats cool about this forum. Always something new to learn. I haven't worked much on the old diesels and this forum helped me immensely with the tweeking of my 7.3 and ZF swap. With some other things however I have been around the block several times. I say humbly that front ends are among those things. They did indeed have similar concerns when they were brand new and I was the one of the guys struggling in the dealership to fix them. You may remember the old f series truck tierod studs set in rubber. When you would turn the wheels the rubber would twist and in turn assist in the return of the steering when the twisted rubber unloaded. Great idea right.... not, the tierods fell apart and we replaced them with greasable joints. The problem with that was that we lost the assistance in steering return that the rubber provided. Later Ford did away with the idea, gave us greasable tie rods back and changed the frt end specs along with giving us the ability to adjust caster and camber with sleeves on the F250 4X2. Before that the only option was going through their screwy ride hieght and I beam replacement procedure that eventually fixed nothing. I would look at later model specs and stay close to them. Say an early 90's model similarly equipped. I love my Ford trucks but the truth is that in the day a Chevy and maybe even a Dodge would drive circles around the 80's model twin I beams so far as the ability to provide superior handling and a pleasurable stable drive. Cranking the caster up can help the steering return but you have to be careful because it can also increase the probabilty of shimmy after hitting bumps. Think of how your caster angle can effect your wheels this way. Think of those annoying wheels on your shopping cart. Ever get one that wobbles like crazy, pulls left or right can't hardly turn it when it's full? Same principle. I am sorry to say that I have pretty much exhausted my arsenal of ideas and I'm scratching my head. There's only so much you can do without actually being able to drive the truck and see it. You need a good Alignment shop to make the next step. I wish you were here I'd line it up for you. Want to take a trip to Albuquerque?

 

[david85]

I've wanted to take a longer road trip, but wanting to do something and being able to are 2 very different things. Thanks for the thought though.

Didn't realize there was such a problem from day one with these trucks. Strange because ford had been using twin I beam for a long time before 1980 when this version came out. I noticed my Tie rod is connected at the center joint with a rubber joint of some sort. It seems tight and dry (no grease to damage the rubber).

My F150 never suffered from the dead zone in the center and has active feedback at any speed and any condition. Return to center is fast and fairly accurate. The diesel ranger is also TTB and feels almost as tight as some of the newer rack & pinion cars. Very nice dynamic feel. My only assumption is that the ranger and F150 have more caster angle. Both of them pull to the left though.

You are also right about the chevy front ends (Dad has a GMC 3500 SRW). However, he usually needs another few feet to turn around because of the huge turn radius. I've so far had to replace the pitman arm, and both tie rod ends because of play in the joints. The steering linkage is much lighter on the GMC so nothings perfect.

I know my truck will never steer as tight as my manual steering rack saturn, but I would at least like for it to be able to find center instead of having to steer it like a battleship with constant minute corrections.

I'm almost tempted to go strait to the caster adjustment bushings and see what difference they make because replacing those bushings don't take any time at all.

Well, at least I'm not alone with this problem

 

[david85]

Look what I just found:

One thing to always check on Ford Twin I-Beam suspensions is ride height. If the front tires show camber wear and the ride height is below specs, you can bet the springs are sagging. And since the springs play a critical role in determining ride height (which affects camber), it does not make much sense to make a camber correction until the underlying problem has been fixed. The trick here is to replace or shim the sagging springs. If that fails to bring camber back within specs, you will have to do the following:

If the Twin I-Beam axles are the forged variety, which were used from 1965 through 1981, camber can be corrected by bending the axle with a hydraulic ram. To make a make a positive camber correction, a rigid work beam is slung under the axle from a pair of clevis blocks. A hydraulic ram is then placed under the middle of the axle. When pressure is applied, the ram bends the axle upward and tilts the knuckle down to increase camber. A slight amount of overbending is usually needed to compensate for spring back in the axle. A negative camber correction is made by removing the outboard clevis block and inserting a spacer between the work beam and axle. The hydraulic ram is then repositioned directly under the inner axle bushing. When pressure is applied, the work beam bends the outer end of the axle up which tilts the knuckle and decreases camber.

In 1982, Ford introduced lighter stamped steel axle Twin I-Beam suspensions on the F100 and F150 pickups. The same axle is also used on 1989 and up Ranger pickups. These axles should not be bent because doing so may weaken them. Camber corrections on the stamped steel Twin I-Beam axles can be made by installing an offset bushing in the upper ball joint. Before you replace this bushing, though, note its position and amount of offset (if any). This will help you determine how much additional offset is needed. Many aftermarket manufacturers offer zero degree sleeves which can be installed to zero out the ball joint stud location to a nominal centered position. After replacing the bushing, steer the wheel by hand to make sure the ball joint is not binding.

Caster corrections on Ford Twin I-Beam suspensions can be accomplished one of three ways: by replacing the same upper ball joint bushing as above on the 1987 and later applications, by replacing the radius arm bushing where the radius arm connects to the frame with an offset bushing, or by installing offset cam bushings where the through bolts attach the radius arms to the axles.

Another thing to watch out for on Ford F150 2WD pickups with the Twin I-Beam front suspension is rear ride height. Ford says any deviation in rear ride height with respect to stock ride height should be taken into account prior to aligning the front wheels. If the bed of the pickup sits higher or lower than stock because of helper or overload springs, or because of modifications that have been made to the vehicle (a wrecker, dumpster, towing a fifth wheel trailer, etc.), then the change in ride height and frame angle need to be computed to compensate for its affect on front caster and camber. Refer to a Ford manual for the ride height and frame angle caster/camber correction chart.

Ford says that modified trucks such as wreckers, dumpsters, trucks used for towing, and so on should be aligned to an "average" setting half way between a loaded and unloaded condition. To do this, ride height has to be measured with the truck loaded and unloaded. Subtract the loaded ride height from the unloaded ride height, divide the difference by two, add this amount to the loaded ride height, and then compare the number to the stock ride height to calculate the amount of compensation for camber and caster settings. Or, measure rear ride height loaded and unloaded, split the difference, then load the truck with just enough weight or tie down the rear suspension so rear ride height is at the mid-point. Then align the front wheels to the preferred specs.

When aligning a Ford truck that has rubber bonded socket (RBS) tie rod ends, loosen the tie rod stud, break the taper and allow the tie rod to center itself if you change toe more than 1/16 inch, otherwise you will get memory steer.

On 1980 to 1992 Ford Broncos and F150s, and 1989 to 1992 Ford F250s, a condition known as "recession steer" may be encountered. A left drift or pull that occurs while braking but produces no torque or pull in the steering wheel may be caused by the left radius arm front pivot bushings. It is important to make sure the pull is not due to a sticky brake caliper or contaminated brake linings. If the brakes appear to be working normally but there is a definite pull to the left when braking, the radius arm pivot bushings need to be replaced. Ford says it is okay to reuse the original nylon rear bushing spacer and rear bushing unless excessive wear is found. Torque the radius arm nuts to 80-120 lb. ft. Toe should be also be checked and reset to 1/32 inch toe-in.

If a pull still exists after replacing the radius arm pivot bushings, many aftermarket manufacturers sell offset radius arm bushings which allow you to change caster to eliminate the pull.

The newer Ford truck suspensions have pinch bolts which simplifies removal of the ball joint bushings. But do not assume the OE bushing has a zero degree offset. Many have 1 to 1-1/2 degrees of offset, usually in the camber direction. So if camber/caster corrections are needed, note the marking stamped on the OE bushing when it is removed so you can determine how much additional correction is needed. The first set of numbers stamped on the sleeve indicate the amount of caster, and the second set of numbers indicates camber. Subtract the numbers from your alignment readings to determine how much additional correction is needed.

Another way to figure how much correction camber/caster correction is actually needed on these applications is to pull out the OE bushing, install a zero offset bushing, then recheck the camber/caster readings to see how far they are off from the preferred specs. Any corrections would then be made by installing an aftermarket bushing with the required number of degrees of offset.

Source: http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfe1096a.htm

 

[Hybrid455]

Look what I just found:



Source: http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfe1096a.htm

Yep Pir, that's it. Your trucks axles are so stout that I doubt you'll be able to bend them. We used to do alot of that back in the day with mid to late 70's trucks on back to the early to mid 60's when the twin I beam came out. The rest of it is pretty much a cut and paste huh? If I'd known of that article I could have just sent you a link instead of writing another book.

 

[david85]

Well, since this thread will probably be searched and referenced by others that come along, I figured I would post whatever info I come across. Forums like this are about compiling info for others to use later on. Your contribution is not a waste.

I agree that bending I beams after 1980 is a bad idea. My camber is fine though, so no point. As a foot note, my F150 has ball joint I beams. Not the stamped channels that are mentioned in the article. I've seen an 85' ranger 2wd that had an identical scaled down version. So far I haven't seen the stamped beams in 2wd with my own eyes. Guess I've led a sheltered life

I have to ask. How does your truck track? I'm wondering if this problem is more common with 2wd than 4wd even with TTB.

 

[tknomaj]

You must be registered for see images attach

here you go

And a pervious post is incorrect you get speed woobles from lack of caster not to much. excessive caster causes hard stering at slow speeds . and if you must do this at home buy a caster guage from harbor freight it cannot be done with levels

P.S. sorry for delay was at baseball game

 

[f-two-fiddy]

And what is the measurement supposed to be?

I have been trying to improve My 85's steering, also.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

And what is the measurement supposed to be?

The ride height I asked about a few posts earlier, it's used to reference caster angles in that table he posted.

 

[david85]

I think its supposed to be 4" between the I beam and the frame rail directly above the beam (do not measure to the rubber bumper).

I've never had wobble of any kind with this truck (or any other for that matter).

*******Could we maybe have the thread name changeded to "twin I beam tracking" or something like that? Seems more people than I though are having this problem, and it has nothing to do with power steering.********

I have an idea on how to measure caster angle with some basic tools. Going to try and take some pix of the setup and see what you guys think.

 

[Hybrid455]

You must be registered for see images attach

here you go

And a pervious post is incorrect you get speed woobles from lack of caster not to much. excessive caster causes hard stering at slow speeds . and if you must do this at home buy a caster guage from harbor freight it cannot be done with levels

P.S. sorry for delay was at baseball game

Not looking for an argument but my previous post concerning steering wobble upon hitting bumps due to excessive positive caster is not incorrect. Most recently Ford published a TSB concerning this very phenomenon in later models F250, 350, 450 and 550's. The same mechanics apply to any vehicle. Ford calls it steering oscillation, we call it the death shake. It is quite severe. Here is the copy of the TSB. You will see that it supports my statement.

TSB
07-10-10 STEERING WHEEL OSCILLATION

Publication Date: May 10, 2007

FORD: 2005-2007 F-Super Duty


This article supersedes TSB 07-5-7 to update the Parts.

ISSUE:
Some 2005-2007 F-Super Duty vehicles may exhibit steering wheel oscillation (back and forth motion), immediately following front or rear wheel impacts (i.e. pavement joints, frost heaves, rough roads, etc.). Steering wheel motion is typically in the range of ± 5 degrees, and typically dampens out in fewer than five oscillations. This condition occurs mostly on F-250/F-350 4X4 vehicles, and is more evident on trucks equipped with a gas engine.

ACTION:
Refer to the following Service Procedure to minimize the steering wheel oscillations on impacts, however, there may be some remaining minor oscillation which would be considered normal.

SERVICE PROCEDURE SUMMARY

Set tire pressure and road test vehicle to evaluate vehicle before proceeding with further repairs. If issue is resolved, do not proceed with the rest of this TSB.
If concern still exists, install a new steering damper (frame-mounted bracket and steering damper assembly on F-250/F-350 4X4 applications only). For F-250/F-350 4X2 and all F-450/F-550 applications, inspect damper for leaks and replace if necessary, torque steering and suspension fasteners per Workshop Manual (WSM).
If concern still exists, check front alignment and reduce front caster.
Replace redundant control steering wheel (if equipped and vehicle built prior to 10/8/2004).
VEHICLE INSPECTION - TIRE PRESSURE

Set tire pressures as indicated on the vehicle label (located on driver's door label).
NOTE: SETTING TIRE PRESSURE TO DOOR SPECIFICATION IS ONE OF THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT MEASURES IN RESOLVING THIS ISSUE. LOWERING TIRE PRESSURE WILL MAKE THIS ISSUE WORSE.



ROAD TEST

Ask customer what type of road surface and speed generates the steering wheel oscillation.
Road test vehicle on similar road surface and speed, to gain a feel for the customer's issue.
If no issues are identified during the road test, do not proceed with the rest of this TSB.
STEERING DAMPER INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT AND STEERING/SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE CHECK

F-250/F-350 4X4 Applications:

Remove existing steering damper and frame attachment bracket.
Replace steering damper and frame mounting bracket with steering damper and frame bracket.
Attach steering damper to frame bracket and torque bolt to 76 lb-ft (103 N-m).
Assemble bracket and shock assembly to the frame with attachment bolt retainer pointing to rear of vehicle. Torque frame bracket nuts to 59 lb-ft (80 N-m).
Attach other end of shock to the steering drag link and torque to 66 lb-ft (90 N-m).
Install damper bolt cap to assure a friendly surface for the battery cable in case of casual contact.
NOTE: CHECK SURROUNDING ENVIRONMENT TO THE FRAME BRACKET AND DAMPER ASSEMBLY TO ENSURE THAT BATTERY CABLES ARE NOT CONTACTING BRACKET/BOLTS/DAMPER. ALSO, VERIFY THAT TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER LINES HAVE CLEARANCE TO THE DAMPER DUST SHIELD.



F-250/F-350 4X2 And All F-450/F-550 Applications:

Wipe down and inspect the steering damper. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times to cycle the steering damper and inspect for leaks.
If leaks are present, install a new steering damper.
Steering/Suspension Fastener Torque Check (4X2 And 4X4)

Check torques on the following steering and suspension fasteners and adjust to specification as required (see following Table).

Torque Specification
Description Lb-ft Nm
Damper nuts (F-250/F-350 4X2) 59 80
Damper-to-bracket (F-250/ F-350 4X4) 76 103
Damper-to-drag link 66 90
Drag link-to-pitman arm nut 129 175
Inner tie-rod end nuts 85 115
Outer tie-rod end nuts 85 115
Track bar bracket-to-frame nuts and bolts 129 175
Track bar-to-track bar bracket bolt 406 550
Track bar-to-axle nut 185 250
Radius arm-to-axle bolts 222 300
Radius arm-to-bracket nut 222 300


NOTE: ADJUSTING TORQUE ON STEERING AND SUSPENSION FASTENERS IS VERY IMPORTANT IN RESOLVING THIS ISSUE. FASTENERS THAT ARE IMPROPERLY TORQUED WILL MAKE THIS ISSUE WORSE.



FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT AND REDUCE FRONT CASTER
NOTE: OSCILLATION ISSUES RESOLVED BY WHEEL ALIGNMENT ARE WARRANTED FOR 12/12 ONLY, REGARDLESS OF OTHER STEPS PERFORMED.



Measure wheel alignment. Verify that front caster, camber, and total toe are within specification. Adjust as required. Refer to the WSM, Section 204-00 for complete alignment specifications.

REDUCE FRONT CASTER
Note the current front caster.
Use alignment adjustment bushings to reduce front caster by 0.5 to 0.75 degrees. The caster setting may be at the lower end of the specification as long as the vehicle drives smoothly. Do not put caster setting below the lower specification limit. Use alignment adjustment bushings.
F-250/350 4X4:

5C3Z-3B440-CCC (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-DDD (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-EEE (1.0 degree bushing)
F-450/550 4X4 and 4X2:

5C3Z-3B440-HHH (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-JJJ (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-*** (1.0 degree bushing)
F-250/350 4X2:

5C3Z-3B440-C (0.5 degree busing)
5C3Z-3B440-D (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-E (1.0 degree bushing)
For All 4X4 and for F-450/550 4X2:

Rotate the alignment adjustment bushing so that the bushing hole is in the 45 degree forward and inboard position. (See Figure 1)



Figure 1 - Article 07-10-10


This should lower the caster, while keeping the camber within the specification range. If the camber is not in the specification range than rotate the alignment adjustment bushing as needed.
The final caster and camber settings must be within the specification limits.
Maintain the current front camber, cross-camber and cross-caster settings as close as you possibly can.
Adding weight behind the rear axle lowers the rear of the vehicle, which decreases the frame angle, which in effect increases caster.
For All F-250/350 4X2:

Observe the camber position of the alignment bushing that is currently in the truck and attempt to maintain that position while moving the caster position forward in the truck.
The final caster and camber settings must be within the specification limits.
NOTE: CASTER SETTING IS VERY IMPORTANT IN RESOLVING THIS ISSUE. INCREASING THE CASTER SETTING WILL MAKE THIS ISSUE WORSE.


REPLACEMENT OF REDUNDANT CONTROL STEERING WHEEL - Vehicles Built Prior To 10/8/2004 Only

NOTE: THE REPLACEMENT STEERING WHEEL WILL CONTAIN THE REDUNDANT CONTROLS.



Remove driver air bag assembly. Refer to WSM, Section 211-04 for complete instructions.
Remove the steering wheel.
Install new steering wheel.
Reinstall driver air bag assembly.
Re-set clear vision as required.
NOTE: FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, PLEASE REFER TO SECTION 211-04 OF THE WSM FOR COMPLETE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURES FOR THE STEERING COLUMN.




PART NUMBER PART NAME
5C7Z-3600-ABA Redundant Control Steering Wheel Asy (King Ranch Tan/Peb)
5C7Z-3600-CBA Redundant Control Steering Wheel Asy (Charcoal Black)
5C3Z-3B440-C F-250/350 4X2 (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-D F-250/350 4X2 (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-E F-250/350 4X2 (1.0 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-CCC F-250/350 4X4 (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-DDD F-250/350 4X4 (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-EEE F-250/350 4X4 (1.0 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-HHH F-450/550 4X4 and 4X2 (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-JJJ F-450/550 4X4 and 4X2 (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-*** F-450/550 4x4 and 4x2 (1.0 degree bushing)
W520117-S441 Nut - Hex - RH Thread
W706196-S439 Bolt
7C3Z-3E652-C Bracket
5C3Z-3E651-B Steering Damper (F-250/F-350 4X2)
8C3Z-3E651-C Steering Damper (F-250/F-350 4X4)
5C3Z-3E651-D Steering Damper (F-450/F-550)
W711570-S300 Bolt Cap

NOTE: LABOR OPERATIONS IN THIS TSB CAN BE CLAIMED TOGETHER.



NOTE: OSCILLATION ISSUES RESOLVED BY WHEEL ALIGNMENT ARE WARRANTED FOR 12/12 ONLY, REGARDLESS OF OTHER STEPS PERFORMED.




WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
071010A 2005-2007 F-Super Duty: Check Tire Pressure, Road Test To Verify Repair, Concern Resolved, Return To Customer (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 0.4 Hr.
071010B 2005-2007 F-Super Duty: Check Tire Pressure, Road Test To Verify Repair, Concern Not Resolved, Check Steering Damper Replace If Necessary, Verify Proper Torque On Steering Components, Road Test If Concern Is Resolved Return To Customer (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 1.4 Hrs.
071010C 2005-2007 F-Super Duty 250/350 4X2 DUAL REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 1.9 Hrs.
071010C 2005-2007 F-Super Duty 250/350 4X2 SINGLE REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 1.5 Hrs.
071010C 2005-2007 F-Super Duty 250/350 4X4 SINGLE REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 1.8 Hrs.
071010C 2005-2007 F-Super Duty 250/350 4X4 DUAL REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 2.1 Hrs.
071010C 2005-2007 F-Super Duty F450/550 4X2/4X4 DUAL REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 2.3 Hrs.
071010D 2005-2007 F-Super Duty With Redundant Steering Control Built Prior To 10-8-2004: Replace Steering Wheel, Includes Time To Depower And Repower The Supplemental Restraints System Can Be Claimed With Operation A Or B (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 0.7 Hr

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
(Operation A) NPF 82
(Operation B) 3E651 42
(Operation C) FRONT W6
(Operation D) 3600 42

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2007 Ford Motor Company

 

[Hybrid455]

Notes Caster
Note: Side to side caster readings must be within 1 1/2 (degrees), when truck frame to axle riding height is such that right hand side is from 0 to .2 inch than left-hand side.
Ride Height 2.7 in +6 1/8 to 7 1/8 deg
2.9 in +5 1/2 to 7 1/8 deg
3.1 in +5 1/8 to 7 1/8 deg
3.3 in +4 1/2 to 6 1/2 deg
3.5 in +4 1/8 to 6 1/8 deg
3.7 in +3 5/8 to 5 5/8 deg
3.9 in +3 1/8 to 5 1/8 deg
4.1 in +3 1/8 to +4 1/2 deg
4.3 in +3 1/8 to 4 1/8 deg

If you run a 1.5 degree split in your caster your truck is going to pull like heck.
Use the later model specs since they are less confusing and aftermarket eccentrics. Run the caster even or maybe lead the rt side just a little to compensate for rd crown if you drive a lot of 2 lane.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[tknomaj]

have never seen to much caster cause a wooble how much caster are they calling for in those trucks. sorry not trying to pick argument and you are correct a .5 to 1.5 split with the high number to the right will help with his road crown. david is in b.c. and have never been their but if its roads a like mid west or east they have lots of crown and i would go with 1 degree at min socal has almost no road crown so you can get away with .5 in my time as a tech i have never seen one of these trucks with lots of camber sometimes it hard to get two degrees

 

[Hybrid455]

have never seen to much caster cause a wooble how much caster are they calling for in those trucks. sorry not trying to pick argument and you are correct a .5 to 1.5 split with the high number to the right will help with his road crown. david is in b.c. and have never been their but if its roads a like mid west or east they have lots of crown and i would go with 1 degree at min socal has almost no road crown so you can get away with .5 in my time as a tech i have never seen one of these trucks with lots of camber sometimes it hard to get two degrees

Argument is to strong a term. Maybe I was a little defensive and I apologize if my choice in terms offended anyone. I tend to be pretty passionate about my work. The TSB that I that I posted addresses later models and these trucks call for on average 2.5 give or take 1.5 degrees. Most that I see on the machine are on the high side of the parameter. I have seen Ford fight bump steers and steering wobble over the years. It seems that too much positive caster plays a roll in the concern. When your working for the dealer and everyone else has thrown up there hands we get it. We get our butts chewed, usually called a lot of special names and unfortunately we don't have the luxury of giving up. The first time I became aware of the link between this kind of shimmy and excessive pos caster was on the older 60's and 70's model Chevy trucks. We reduced caster to correct a similar concern on those. David doesn't have a wobble concern anyway and I tend to agree with you that he needs a good alignment shop and perhaps some more positive caster to address his steering concern. I was just trying to warn him of the possible reprecussions of cranking it up too far. Here is another tsb for a concern on older Ford trucks that has a similar issue to my last post. While it doesn't suggest decreasing caster as a part of the overall fix it does document the fact that this bump then shimmy conern has been a problem for several years and I can attest to the fact that decreasing caster along with this TSB greatly improves your chances at a successful death shake repair on the older trucks as well.

Printable View (190 KB)
TSB
98-15-8 STEERING - SHIMMY - DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE - 4X2 AND 4X4 VEHICLES

Publication Date: AUGUST 3, 1998

LIGHT TRUCK: 1988-1997 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD, F-350


This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to include the latest level parts and to include the F-250 HD 4X4.

The F-250 and F-350 listed include 4X4 and 4X2.

ISSUE:
Front end shimmy may occur at various driving speeds and is usually induced when hitting bumps such as large potholes or rough railroad crossings. Shimmy is not always verified during the road test.

ACTION:
Check all the systems that can cause shimmy. After a general review of the front suspension and steering systems, make the necessary adjustments as noted in the following diagnostic procedure. The review should include bolt and nut torques to ensure they are to specified torques. When encountering excessively worn tires, shackle bushings and out-of-balance wheel or tire assemblies, refer to the appropriate Service/Workshop Manual, Section 04-00.

Shimmy, as observed by the driver, is defined as large amplitude, rotational oscillations of the steering wheel resulting from large, side-to-side (lateral) tire/wheel movements. Shimmy should not be confused with nibble, a condition resulting from tire interaction with various road surfaces and observed by the driver as small amplitude, rotational oscillations of the steering wheel. To diagnose nibble and other vibrations which are sometimes confused with shimmy, such as steering column shake or wheel/tire imbalance, consult the Noise/Vibration/Harshness (NVH) diagnostic, Brake NVH and Tire NVH sections in the appropriate Service/Workshop Manuals.

The following items will contribute to the shimmy condition and should be inspected and repaired as required to assure the total repair effectiveness. After all components have been reviewed and repaired, install the appropriate Steering Damper Kit.


STEERING LINKAGE

With the vehicle weight on the front wheels, observe the steering linkage joints while someone else turns the vehicle steering wheel from side-to-side.

· (RBS) RUBBER BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

Observe if the ball stud makes contact with RBS linkage.

Observe if the ball stud makes contact with the window opening in the socket bowl, refer to Figure 1. Then remove the linkage and determine if the rubber is torn. If contact is made with the window opening or the rubber is torn, replace with a greaseable, steel socket.


· (GREASEABLE) STEEL LINKAGE

For steel (greaseable) joints, measure and observe lateral (side-to-side) lash in the joint. If the lash exceeds 1.5mm (0.060"), the joint should be replaced. Refer to Figure 5. With the linkage removed, check the vertical end play. If the end play is greater than 2.3mm (0.090"), replace the joint, Figure 5. Also, determine if the steel joint spins freely. If the joint spins freely by hand, the joint should be replaced.




FRAME

Inspect the mounting surface of the gear and the mounting area of the frame, shown in Figure 6, for signs of motion, for loose rivets, and for cracks. Removal of the gear from the frame may be required. All damages must be repaired. Refer to the Service/Workshop Manual, Section 02-01, for service procedures.



INSPECT THE FRAME IN THE FOLLOWING AREAS:

· Frame rail near the steering gear top and bottom flanges

· Frame rail at the steering bolt heads

· Frame rail at or near the leaf spring mounting brackets

· Front crossmember where the track bar mounting bracket mounts


STEERING GEAR

If shimmy has been experienced, replace the steering gear sector shaft with Repair Kit (F6AZ-3575-AA) as outlined in the appropriate Service/Workshop Manual.

Check the steering gear for presence of meshload. With the front wheels off the ground, hold the tire and turn the tire side-to-side slowly. The effort should increase when turning the tire straight ahead. If no increase in effort is noted, perform the procedure as outlined in Section 11-02B of the Service/Workshop Manual to check and adjust the meshload.


BALL JOINTS OR WORN KING PINS

For proper diagnosis and replacement of king pins and ball joints, refer to the Service/Workshop Manual, Section 04-00.


WHEEL BEARING END PLAY

For proper diagnosis, adjustment, or replacement of the wheel bearing, refer to the Service/Workshop Manual, Sections 04-00 and 04-01A.


ALIGNMENT

All alignment adjustments should be measured and set to the recommended specifications as stated in the Service/Workshop Manual, Section 04-00.


WHEEL/TIRE SIZE AND BALANCE

Compare tire size and wheel size with sizes and pressures on the certification label. Inflate to the specified pressure. Assure correct balance of the front wheels.


STEERING DAMPER

A Steering Damper Kit should be installed when shimmy is experienced. Install the following applicable Service Kit:

F-250 HD/350 4X2 SRW and DRW vehicles - F7TZ-3E651-BA
F-250 HD 4X4 (see template when installing kit) - F7TZ-3E650-CA
F-350 4X4 SRW and DRW vehicles - E7TZ-3E651-C
F-Super Duty Chassis Cab (F-47) - E8TZ-3E651-B
Steering damper installation sketches are in the Light Truck Service/Workshop Manual for F-250 HD 4X4. Using the F-250 HD 4X4 template, install the mounting brackets and damper as shown in Figures 7 and 8 as well as the Figures provided in the kit.

 

[tknomaj]

Hey it all good we are all just trying to help each other here

 

[david85]

It seems I'm surrounded by overqualified people.
Yes, I understand that swapping parts out can be dangerous when you are dealing with 6000lbs of steel rolling along at 70 MPH.

Ok guys, tell me what you think of my method here (all happening on a smooth shop floor).

I installed a large camera tripod on the rim of the truck by strapping it to the rim.

Then I jacked that wheel up, and calibrated the center of the tripod by rolling the tire by hand and making adjustments against a steel square against the foor of the shop. I got the wobble down to about 1/16". I hope that was enough to get a good enough center.

Now that the tripod was calibrated, I lowered the wheel off the jack and rolled the truck back about 4 feet then forward again, to make sure the weight of the truck was settled well.

First measurement was taken with the steering wheel turned 2 turns to the right (from center). Marked the location of the tripod point on the floor, and measured the height off the floor(13 - 11/16").

Second measurement taken with the wheel turned 2 turns to the left (from center). Marked the location of the tripod and measured the height off the floor(15 - 9/16"). At this point I can measure the distance between 1 and 2 (34 - 7/8").

Third measurement to the floor taken with the wheels pointed strait ahead.

Fourth measurement taken after rolling the truck back and fourth ~4 feet to verify that the suspension is in the neutral position. difference between 3 and 4 was within the error of the tripod capibration (less than 1/16").

I plotted all the points in AutoCAD and dimentioned the slope................

3.0775 degrees.

So what to you think? is this method good enough to consider the result accurate? Or should I retest with only the 20 degrees of steering movement from the strait ahead position?