Oil pan removal while engine in truck **HOW**

[cheap bronco]

Hello Everyone,

I have searched and searched and searched. I always try to do my homework prior to asking a question. I have seen others here remove the oil pan while the engine is in the truck. HOW. I have taken the turbo off, I have taken the fan off, I have taken the crossover pipe off, and im still 1 inch shy of the oil pan clearing the flywheel. I have unbolted the engine mounts and lifted the engine to the point of the lifting the whole front end. I unbolted the auto tranny mount also. Im very close to cutting the cross member and fabricating a bolt in system upon reassembly. Before I cut the cross member I figured I would ask the pros. please help. No, my pan was not leaking, I developed a bottom end knock and my oil pressure is at the point of not even registering on the mechanical gauge at times. sometimes the oil pressure would bounce like a cat getting scared by a firecracker. Thanks in advance

 

[4x4manonbroke]

I have always just pulled the trans out and lifted engine straight up ... pita but its less time consuming than all the other ways of doin it that I have seen thus far ... mine have also only been N/A not turbo'd ...

 

[oregon96psd]

I developed a bottom end knock and my oil pressure is at the point of not even registering on the mechanical gauge at times.

Are you pulling it off in hopes of finding that the crank isnt scored? Seems like at the point of knocking, it is pretty likely that the engine will have to come out anyway. You might get lucky and be able to polish it up and roll new bearings in, but thats a lot of work to gamble that its going to be ok.

 

[cheap bronco]

well im taking a gamble without going to vegas. im hoping on just replacing the bearings and moving on. if it still knocks I have a spare engine I will put together and install it in the truck.

 

[GOOSE]

Did you remove the sump and let it drop into the pan?

 

[TahoeTom]

The oil pump needs to be removed and dropped in the pan before you can remove the pan. I did this years ago following the Haynes manual. Some of the steps listed: remove oil filter , disconnect PS return hose , disconnect trans cooler lines from radiator, disconnect fuel line from chassis to fuel pump,unbolt exhaust from manifolds,remove bolts from engine mounts to crossover, raise engine until trans contacts body, place wood blocks between motor mounts and frame (2.75" on drivers side, and 2" on pass side), remove bell housing lower cover, remove oil pan bolts, unbolt oil pump and pickup tube and drop them into the pan. The oil pump was the hard part. I tied a string to my wrench after losing several into the pan working by feel only. It was an adventure, and I would probably pull the engine if I had to do it again.

 

[riotwarrior]

well im taking a gamble without going to vegas. im hoping on just replacing the bearings and moving on. if it still knocks I have a spare engine I will put together and install it in the truck.

With this being the case, just pull the engine, you can string the journals if just lightly scuffed I'd suggest prepare for worst, and move forward. Also if you are in this far, just rebuild oilcooler too Or before you stick the other engine in.

JM2CW but it's what I got

 

[icanfixall]

Pul l the engine and be done with it. To do the work your thinking bout doing its so much easier doing it on an engine stand. Otherwise I'm betting you will never get a good oil pan seal. Remember we DO NOT USE AN OIL PAN GASKET NO MATTER WHAT.. They are available but they will leak on you. Factory was RTV and it works. Its simple to use too. Look at the bottom of the oil pan. The oil pump suction head nearly rest on the just above the oil drain hole. Think I'm wrong then remove the drain plug and feel up in there. This is why the pan wont come off easily.

 

[cheap bronco]

well friends, thanks to all that have chimed in. I have decided through much thought to pull the pump and tube. next time I will do this I will definitely yank out the motor. Is the pump just a drop and reassemble?, are there any timing marks I should be aware of?, also when I have the pump out, is there any thing I need to check as far as wear?, or I should get a new pump? Once again, everyones input is much appreciated.

 

[ifrythings]

The oil pump isn't timed to the engine, to check the pump, take it apart and check for scoring on the pump housing and cover plate (thrust surfaces) and the backlash between the gears.

Some say oem oil pumps only as questionable melling pump have been seen out there.

You may also have a bad wrist pin bushing or rob bearing, again as has been said, best to pull the engine and go over it in good light as you will probably need lower end work.

 

[riotwarrior]

well friends, thanks to all that have chimed in. I have decided through much thought to pull the pump and tube. next time I will do this I will definitely yank out the motor. Is the pump just a drop and reassemble?, are there any timing marks I should be aware of?, also when I have the pump out, is there any thing I need to check as far as wear?, or I should get a new pump? Once again, everyones input is much appreciated.

TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES to show us how to do this!

 

[Michael Fowler]

I posted on this topic after I did it.....some 10-15 years ago or longer!
I fabricated up a wrench to get the oil filter bolts about 18" long.
Remember the manual says to remove the pump and let it drop into the pan?
Also remember the manual says " assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly"
Think about that.
THINK about it some more.
It really is easier to pull the engine.

If you insist on dropping the pan, get yourself a hard hard, or at least a bump cap, and wear it at all times under the truck. I must have hit my head a dozen times trying to do this.
I will never drop the pan in the vehicle again.
period.

Yes I am serious.

 

[94f450sd]

Save alot of headaches,pull the motor.done it once without pulling the motor,never do that again.

You can do it on chevy without pulling the motor cuz they were designed for it,the fords werent.