Timing cover removal in truck

[Austin86250]

Man I wonder where that came from lol
I siliconed the two paper gaskets when I had my old man's engine apart. So far no leaks still.

It’s a mystery, the block and heads are still waiting to be inspected at the machine shop for the last 3 weeks now

 

[Austin86250]

Man I wonder where that came from lol
I siliconed the two paper gaskets when I had my old man's engine apart. So far no leaks still.

This is the color it will be I did the water necks for fun

 

[IDIoit]

the timing cover does go into IP gear housing and has a notch. so make sure you pry from the bottom, where all the silicon is holding it to the pan.

it can be done, but id rather pull the gear housing and reseal that too.
theres no gasket, and youre relying on silicon for it to seal properly.
thats why i pull it.

also, when reinstalling with the housing on, all that silicon you put on the pan lip, you will be pushing the timing gear cover into the silicon sideways, pushing that nice bead inwards. rather than pressing down between the 2 surfaces it seals to.
remember your alignment pins are on either side...
thats why i pull it.

theres never enough time to do the job right, but theres always time to do it over

P.S. the last time i didnt pull it, i had to build 2 6 door trucks

 

[Austin86250]

The reason sliding the oil pan rtv vs pushing it like it’s supposed to doesn’t scare me is that’s how you have to do the rear main in truck and I’ve successfully sealed 3 so to me that is a valid method

 

[Black dawg]

If it is just the seal, why pull the cover?

 

[Austin86250]

I suppose you could do it with the cover in but I couldn’t imagine pulling and installing a seal with the core support in, as-well as I’m not sure if it is the seal or if it’s the timing cover gaskets or where the cover seals to the pan,

 

[IDIBRONCO]

To get a little extra sealing, you can run some RTV over the seam between the cover and oil pan on the front part before installing the balancer.

 

[Austin86250]

I ended up going for the remove ip route, needed to swap my injecotrs, gp’s, and harness from my old motor so having all the lines gone made it a breeze

Not sure what all the fuss is about those crazy 9/16 wrenches for ip’s is I just had to grind the sides a 1/4” on each side and I was good to go

Since I never put the grille etc in from the motor swap yet I’ll just yank the rad and condenser for easier access

I also forgot the petcock existed on the rad, boy does that make a world of difference on saving coolant and not drenching yourself

I have an r and d cam I was going to save for my 7.3 but it’s tempting to slap it in now thoughts for this non studded 6.9?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It's your call. Studs probably don't matter at all with a cam swap. It's not adding any boost.

 

[Austin86250]

Success! No more gallon a day oil leak
I must’ve messed the timing cover up when the cherry picker gave and dropped the motor