gdhillon
Full Access Member
bolts dont need to be torqued tho do they....for the cooler?
Oil cooler removal?
- Thread starter leftcoastjeff
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Not really but make them safely tight.. Remember the front bolts are 3/8 diameter and the rear bolts are 5/16....
gdhillon
Full Access Member
Thats good to know, thanks!
gdhillon
Full Access Member
any1 have a pic of the motor mount and its bolts that need to be loosened? I think I see it but im not to sure, is it the bolts that look like they are sitting on top of the frame?
gdhillon
Full Access Member
should I put neverseize or lock tight on the threads?
gfemling
Registered User
Okay old thread but need associated info. I rebuilt my oil cooler during engine out overhaul and followed the Ford factory manual which clearly says to install the smaller/ inner O-ring into the header then larger onto the bundle. Well after installing and taking what I thought was significant caution not to pinch the o-rings on assembly, guess what-- water in oil pan! on draining to remove (in place-PITA) I discover a 1" piece of one of the O-rings so obvious something didn't work as intended. I know, should have pressure tested prior to installation of assembly and will before re-installing. And I have an overhaul gasket set with oil cooler gaskets which are just plain paper; went to the effort for original rebuild of getting genuine gaskets which have the silicon trace on one surface (header side if I remember correctly).
Now my questions for those who "know": (1) is it better to install both O-rings on the bundle or do as the manual says and put smaller into the header and larger onto the bundle prior to gently pressing bundle into headers? and (2) is it recommended to get the header gaskets with the silicon trace and, if so, since installing with engine inplace now, is the permatex gasket sealer used just on the non-silicon trace side or on both sides (or on neither but real benefit to hold gasket in position while working it back onto the inplace block) or, are the plain paper gaskets a usable alternative and, if so, same question-- gasket sealer on one or both sides of the gasket. And found answer to the other question I originally had-- not recommended to use a silicon gasket maker/sealer on the oil cooler to block gasket.
Now my questions for those who "know": (1) is it better to install both O-rings on the bundle or do as the manual says and put smaller into the header and larger onto the bundle prior to gently pressing bundle into headers? and (2) is it recommended to get the header gaskets with the silicon trace and, if so, since installing with engine inplace now, is the permatex gasket sealer used just on the non-silicon trace side or on both sides (or on neither but real benefit to hold gasket in position while working it back onto the inplace block) or, are the plain paper gaskets a usable alternative and, if so, same question-- gasket sealer on one or both sides of the gasket. And found answer to the other question I originally had-- not recommended to use a silicon gasket maker/sealer on the oil cooler to block gasket.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Always install them onto the bundle.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
And use lube!
ISPKI
Welding/metallurgical engineer/Metalsmith
This. Vasaline is a great thing
