vt951
Full Access Member
Yeah, I just watched the video from the TN thread with the start up rpm, and it looked like only about 300 rpm on the tach.
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Yeah, I just watched the video from the TN thread with the start up rpm, and it looked like only about 300 rpm on the tach.
vt951
Full Access Member
Got the truck home yesterday! Towed by an '05 F150 on a car trailer... that was a little scary.
I officially started looking my $500 gift horse in the mouth
. First tried to crank, and it cranked very slow, not nearly the 300 rpm necessary to turn it over.
So, I pulled that batteries and took them to Advance, and they tested them. One was good, but needed charge (they're charging it now). One was bad... registered about 10 volts and 0 cca's. So, the good one was an Ever Start Maxx brand with 850 cca's, I think it's a Walmart brand. Should I try to find the same battery to replace the bad one so they match, or just go with an 850 cca Advance brand?
I also took some more pics. The pics of the wires shows quite a rats nest. Some of the wires are worn through in spots, some of the terminal nuts are loose, and some leads are not connected to anything. I'm trying to figure out what is going on with two wires in particular. Someone wired two red wires from the solenoids across the back of the engine bay, and around the a-pillar in through the door opening, to a push button that's installed in the panel under the steering wheel. When I push it, the Glow Plug dash light comes on, and one of the solenoids clicks. Is this a common "mod" to manually turn on the glow plugs? Like maybe if the ignition switch is broken and it wasn't turning the glow plugs on? The ignition switch does feel pretty loosey goosey.
As a bonus, there were two autographed photos in the back seet, one of Richard Petty, and one of Steve Austin.
I officially started looking my $500 gift horse in the mouth
. First tried to crank, and it cranked very slow, not nearly the 300 rpm necessary to turn it over. So, I pulled that batteries and took them to Advance, and they tested them. One was good, but needed charge (they're charging it now). One was bad... registered about 10 volts and 0 cca's. So, the good one was an Ever Start Maxx brand with 850 cca's, I think it's a Walmart brand. Should I try to find the same battery to replace the bad one so they match, or just go with an 850 cca Advance brand?
I also took some more pics. The pics of the wires shows quite a rats nest. Some of the wires are worn through in spots, some of the terminal nuts are loose, and some leads are not connected to anything. I'm trying to figure out what is going on with two wires in particular. Someone wired two red wires from the solenoids across the back of the engine bay, and around the a-pillar in through the door opening, to a push button that's installed in the panel under the steering wheel. When I push it, the Glow Plug dash light comes on, and one of the solenoids clicks. Is this a common "mod" to manually turn on the glow plugs? Like maybe if the ignition switch is broken and it wasn't turning the glow plugs on? The ignition switch does feel pretty loosey goosey.
As a bonus, there were two autographed photos in the back seet, one of Richard Petty, and one of Steve Austin.
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vt951
Full Access Member
Btw, if anyone has some good pics of how that wiring *should* look, please post! Or maybe a thread about under hood wiring.
k_williams1982
'01 Excursion 4x4
It will sit around 300 rpms on my tach and then jump up just a bit just before it fires off. Welcome to the forum, and nice truck too! You got a good deal on it.
vt951
Full Access Member
So, with a button like that, what is the start up procedure? Turn the key to accessory position, push glow plug button for x seconds, and then crank it? Or push the glow plug button until the glow plug light goes out, then crank it?
vt951
Full Access Member
I just went ahead and got another Ever Start Maxx with 850 cca's so hopefully the old and new batteries will be matched well enough.
troutwest66
Ricer-Roni The IDI Treat
Rule of thumb is to replace batteries in pairs unless the one is not old. These trucks should have matching batteries or one will drain the other and starting won't be so great.
Put the key in the run position, push in on the button for approximately 10 seconds (less on warm days, maybe a second or two more on very cold days) then start the truck. Don't wait for the light to go out, that thing will stay on until you let go of the button.
vt951
Full Access Member
I read something about that, but the good one tested very good after charging it up. It held 13.3 volts, and made 887 cca's.
It cranks much faster now, but still doesn't turn over, and I'm not seing any smoke coming out of the exhaust, so I'm going to head down the fuel system troubleshooting path now.
Thanks everyone for your continued help.
zpd307
Registered User
And you learned all that from just reading old posts, huh? I didn't think that was possible, maybe some people just don't think to try that route.
very good point!!!!!!! or the fact that they were willing to listen to someone's advice.
I read something about that, but the good one tested very good after charging it up. It held 13.3 volts, and made 887 cca's.
It cranks much faster now, but still doesn't turn over, and I'm not seing any smoke coming out of the exhaust, so I'm going to head down the fuel system troubleshooting path now.
Thanks everyone for your continued help.
If you read the same thing that I did, then the next best option is to take your new battery, and manually cycle it several times (discharge and charge) to make it more compatable with your old one.
vt951
Full Access Member
How would I manually cycle it? Hook it up to a 12v device outside the truck and let it run until it dies?
I'm not overly concerned about the battery life. As long as it works well enough to crank the motor until I get it to turn over, I'll be happy. Once I get the truck running, I'll invest in a good pair of batteries if necessary, rewire the rats nest harness, and a bunch of other stuff to make it more reliable.
I'm not overly concerned about the battery life. As long as it works well enough to crank the motor until I get it to turn over, I'll be happy. Once I get the truck running, I'll invest in a good pair of batteries if necessary, rewire the rats nest harness, and a bunch of other stuff to make it more reliable.
vt951
Full Access Member
A guy at work is telling me that ether is the way to go for my situation. Just a little shot while it's cranking, and maybe that will be enough to get it to turn over, push the air out of the fuel lines, etc. I read somewhere that it is not a good idea to use the glow plugs when using ether. True? If so, it looks like I can start up my truck without the glow plugs even being pulsed, because I have a manual glow plug button.
Yes, it is best to never use the white death with glow plugs, and if you do use it, just give it a very tiny wiff, makes sure it's not enough to puddle anywhere. Just as quick as your finger can hit the nozzle, pull it back off. It is best to have someone else crank it while you barely spray a bit in the intake. And as you said always disable the glow plugs and manifold heaters if so equipped. I have never used it in anything of mine, but used to have to use it in dump trucks all the time because the boss would not maintain his crap.
