New to me 95 F350

[Kevin 007]

Yeah that's a pricey pump. Ok, I'll probably just replace the factory lift pump then and get rid of the electric that he put in. The factory one may still be ok, since that wasn't the issue, but I don't want to trust it after having that electric spliced in with it for a few years.

Good call on the oil, why didn't I think of this

 

[79jasper]

Yep. But it's everything you need to go efuel.
When doing the mechanical one, I find it easier to remove the fuel bowl. Just cut the old hoses and replace them. I bought the precut ones at Ford.
Also remove the back lifting eye. Then I come through under the turbo with a ratchet to get the banjo bolt.

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[snicklas]

x2 on the oil.... the HEUI's are picky about oil.... my 6.0 is even worse than a 7.3. I highly recommend FULL SYNTHETIC only..... mine starts better in the cold, and the sitiction issue is much less..... Currently I run Chevron Delo 5w-40 Full Synthetic since it's the least expensive I can find..... (It is ~$18.00 a gallon at Wally-World)........ They also carry the FL-1995 Motorcraft brand Oil Filter for ~$17 also.....

Also, is the EBPV still hooked up? That can cause low power during warm-up also.......

 

[DaveBen]

I have been doing what Scott recommends, for the 12 years I have owned my 6.0 F-350. WalMart does have great prices on the oil and filters.

Dave

 

[79jasper]

http://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/DZLJIM/djhome.htm here's some how to's.

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[Kevin 007]

Ok, I just changed the oil a couple weeks ago so I may as well run until it needs a drain and at that point I''ll put synthetic in. And ill add HotShots or Archoil. Also, the EBPV appears to not be hooked up. The truck still has the squished down pipe, i'll add that mod to the list for eventually.

Are the Autoenginuity scanners compatible with the 94.5-97 PSD's? Someone mentioned to me today that they work better for the 98 and newer PSD's

 

[79jasper]

No, they still work fine. Even if the computer hasn't been flashed to OBDII, there's a setting in AE to be able to use it.

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[Kevin 007]

Im wanting to change out my high pressure oil lines, they are next on my list as they are not looking too good. I want to buy a kit to do all of them at once. Is this what im after? http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/hpop-stainless-braided-line-kit/

Are there better and/or better deals on these lines? Are they straight forward to replace? And is there anything else related to high pressure oil lines that I should replace? Im paranoid of them blowing on me

 

[79jasper]

You can do a hpo crossover line. Not necessarily "needed" but can help balance the oil pressure. Many have seen smoother idle.
Some reason their site isn't loading for me right now.
I think there was something with the early trucks having normal screw on fittings, while the newer ones had the quick disconnects.

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[Kevin 007]

Good info, thanks. I haven't heard of the crossover pipe yet. I'll go have a look at mine tomorrow and see if I can find it, after comparing to some pic I just looked at on the web.

Changed the oil today to Rotella T5, 5-40 with a bottle of Archoil oil additive and Baldwin 7039 filter.. It sounded pretty happy with it.

Another question. Are the vacuum pumps problematic in these? Had a neighbour say he put 4 in his OBS cause they didn't seem to last.

 

[79jasper]

It's aftermarket. Currently you shouldn't have one.
Can't really say they're problematic. He was probably buying junk ones. I don't even know how old mine is.

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[OLDBULL8]

On the dieselstop 99 and up forum there is Vendor that makes the HPOP lines to replace the quick disconnect lines without the o'rings that leak. They are half the price IIRC $52 ea. I lost the Vendor on my computer crash. If your gonna get the crossover line, don't get the steel line, get the flexible one.

cncfabricationllc

 

[Kevin 007]

Ok so I was mixed up a bit on which lines were the high pressure oil lines. The ugly looking lines are something else, fuel lines maybe. The second and fourth picture. It looks as if the actual high pressure oil line have been replaced, or at least they look good. Are these cracked looking fuel lines something that I should replace ASAP?

I finally got my AE setup and reading my truck. I just played with it (on a warm engine however). The injector BUZZ test passed and the injectors all sounded pretty much the same PHEWWWW. But again, this was with a warm engine. Cylinder contribution test made the truck run kind of lousy and the test failed...didn't tell me why. And the only code it was throwing was the p0606 PCM code. Does this mean I need a new PCM? The issues I have been having with the truck are, rough running and NO power when cold. I switched to synthetic Rotella 5W-40 with Archoil and that helped a bit but there is still something going on. Ive had other PSD's in colder climates running 15w-40 that ran way better in the cold. It starts fairly well when cold, just loud and rough and gutless until warmed up. Once warm its alright, a little rough at idle and most notably when it returns to idle after getting off the throttle. I thought that the EBPV had been disconnected but I now realize that the EBPV is not disconnected. I'll get on that. Can I just disconnect it for now and worry about gutting it if I ever have to remove the turbo?

Exhaust back pressure was 14.86 psi
Injector Control Pressure was 579ish

I have yet to figure out how to get the readout to copy to post it here on Oilburners. But I'll get it eventually.

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[greenskeeper]

you can gut the EBPV without removing the turbo. The housing comes off the turbo after you disconnect the downpipe. If you gut the housing you can use a freeze plug or bolt/nut to plug the hole. Disconnect the sensor and the actuator won't cycle. It will trip a soft code but on the OBS it won't turn on the SES light.

have you checked your fuel pressure? shimmed the regulator with a bb?

 

[snicklas]

Might want to get 2 bottles of Rev-X and give that a try..... I'm getting ready to make a post about it.......