New to me 95 F350

[79jasper]

Yes, those are the return fuel lines from the head to the fpr. I would for sure replace them. I had one blow once. 70 psi fuel going everywhere is no good.
On mine I actually just had some made at orielly. A good hydraulic shop would obviously be better.
The stainless braided one is the hpo line.
Just unplug the ebpv for now and try that.

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[Kevin 007]

Ok I will look into getting those return lines replaced. Does anyone sell them pre made? And I will unplug the EBPV tomorrow before I cold start it and i'll report back. I look forward to reading your post on Rev-X. I was hoping the Archoil would have more of an effect....but not so far.

 

[79jasper]

Yep. Diesel orings. http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-1998-ford-7-3l/fuel-system-parts-filters.html

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[Kevin 007]

What are some symptoms of injector O ring failure? Im not thinking that I have some failed ones, just wanted to know what happens when they do fail so I can keep an eye out for that. Would a switch from dino to synthetic at my higher mileage contribute to injector oring failures? So far, im not noticing any increase in oil leakage on the truck with Rotella T5.

 

[79jasper]

Injector orings can cause low power, hard starting when hot, oil in the filter housing.
Me personally from everyone I know first hand, I would stay away from Rotella.
And no on switching causing the orings to leak.

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[greenskeeper]

What are some symptoms of injector O ring failure?

engine fluids begin to mix. oil into fuel, fuel into coolant, etc.

 

[79jasper]

engine fluids begin to mix. oil into fuel, fuel into coolant, etc.

Depends on the orings.
If we're talking injectors, it won't affect coolant. Just oil and fuel.
Now if the cup is cracked, that could.

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[Kevin 007]

Ok would you recommend Mobil 5w-40 Syn over Rotella T5?, They seem to be the only that I can find locally. Im game to try anything to keep these injectors happy and improve how it runs when its cold. What is a cause of the injector cups cracking? Overheating?

Thanks for the input. Now I know what symptoms to look out for. Its starting pretty good when hot. It doesn't start with just a bump of the key like a healthy idi will, but it seems to start hot just as well as any 7.3 psd that Ive owned or seen start.

 

[79jasper]

Yeah, Mobil is good oil.
May or may not make a difference. I've just seen a lot of people have "problems" running it.
Can't really say for sure on the cups. Age, maybe bad copper washer, installation errors, etc.
They don't always Crack. They're held in with loctite which can "come loose" also.

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[greenskeeper]

Ok would you recommend Mobil 5w-40 Syn over Rotella T5?, They seem to be the only that I can find locally. Im game to try anything to keep these injectors happy and improve how it runs when its cold.

I run Rotella T6 5w-40 in all of my engines. In the trucks I change the oil at 5k intervals, never had a problem, neither trucks use oil between changes, both always start below zero. Good stuff all around.

 

[trackspeeder]

I never have any issues with Rotella 5-40 synthetic either. 5k oil changes with the PSD. Annually with my ATV. Both are happy campers.

 

[79jasper]

Could be fine. I think it's more of a issue with the 6.0.
If you just put it in, I wouldn't change it until it's due.

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[Kevin 007]

So back to the EBPV, if I just unplug it for now until I get to gutting it, will that completely deactivate it and leave it open? Or does the actual linkage still need to be removed and the valve tied open? Im still trying to solve the no power when cold thing, even after idling for 10-15 mins. And this is well above freezing temps.

 

[Kevin 007]

I've been reading up on the EBPV tube and sensor cleaning, I think I'll try that

 

[Kevin 007]

Wow!!! Was it ever plugged!! It removed and went back together real easy but it had a clog right in the middle of the tube and I spent at least 3 hours with a speedo cable. drill and a full can of brake clean. The sensor wasn't really dirty at all so I left it alone, put the tube back on and no difference at all, damn...