Moms Crew Cab too DANGEROUS to Drive. Help!

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

I don't think it was even 2 years ago that I put new track bar bushings in this thing but I guess you never know.

 

[MidnightBlade]

take all the rims to a tire shop and tell them to balance them while you watch as they do it, then check the studs and lug nuts for wear/strippage, and make sure the rims were mounted on the truck right. my dads 84 f250 had the same problem, he tightened the front rims to spec or so we thought) but it turned out somehow the rim bound onto the stud while tightening and then came loose when driving down the road, causing the Death Wobble at 10 MPH or so

 

[Diesel_brad]

I agree with this IF the tires are close to original size. Nebraska didnt tell us what size tires are on it. Larger tires will increase the DW affect. Stabilizers help reduce the effect the larger tires can have.

If the DW is compounded or started by driving over a bump, its loose parts or a stabilizer is needed with bigger tires.

My 2wd has a stabilizer. One of the first things I did. Tires are taller than stock.

I have 35s and 38s with no death wobble, hell not even any vibrations at 80+mph. A steering stabilizer is just masking problems

 

[junk]

I would check the front axle shaft U-joints. My u-joints froze up on a trip and it was darn near undrivable. I locked in the front hubs and did figure 8's in a parking lot to free them up good enough to get it home. It sounds like you've tried all the other bushings and joints I would try the axle shaft U-joints. I also agree 10 mph seems too low to be speed sensitive such as out of balance tire or bad shocks.

Let us know what you find.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

I have 35s and 38s with no death wobble, hell not even any vibrations at 80+mph. A steering stabilizer is just masking problems

When i first swapped the 60 in, with the stock sized 235/85R16 tires it was no issue. Once i went to my 35's once i hit a bump in the road it would start to DW. I rebuilt the front completely but would still have a slight shake once i bumped and could drive through it. Went and added a shim under the kingpins to try and cure it. Ended up replacing the little stocker with a bigger replacement and she drives real nice now.

I wish i had tossed a new stablizer in it before i threw money at it for all new kingpins (that top allen was a PITA), new bearings seals, u joints, pads and rotors. Not that the brakes were needed but since i was only reusing the axles and ring and pinion i figured whats a few dollars more.

 

[rjjp]

Does not matter, you could be dragging the ass of the truck down the road w no rear axle and it would still have DW

If the rear axle is out of alignment, such as when you have a broken shackle, it will buck like a bronco on pavement... Ask me how I know.

And actually no you wouldn't have death wobble without a rear axle because you would have the front axle engaged by it's self and all the parts in the front suspension, drive train, and steering system would be in a bind.

 

[yARIC008]

are you postitive you dont have a bent rim, off balance tires, or lug nuts that are stripping? just trying to make sure basics are covered before you bury a bunch of money into front end parts

I really don't think a bent rim would do what he says at 10MPH.

Something is seriously f'ed up and it doesn't sound like death wobble to me at 10 MPH. This isn't some sort of balance problem. Sounds like something needs some lube somewhere, I like the comment about the U joints too tight. Perhaps the wheel bearings too, but it seems to me if it was this bad they would have just destroyed themselves by now completely... maybe they have.

 

[Brimmstone]

Hey Brad you've talked about caster once before. Both shops I've gone to around here say you can't adjust caster on a D60. They said its a bushing that is pre set and when its worn out you replace it, there's simply no adjustment to it. I've argued with them about it but I don't know what to tell them other than you guys have said the caster is adjustable.

Take it to another shop. If I need to I'll get the part numbers for the adjustable caster bushings. I have done hundreds of alignments on balljoint 60s and always had to change the bushings to adjustable ones to make it right. Oreilly's stocks the caster bushings because they are so popular.

 

[88beast]

midnight blade swapping wheels from a good truck covers all wheel options the tires could be an issue too so balancing may not do it
at 10 mph it sounds like a wheel loose or some major part bad with lots of movement
the ujoints are an issue too but if they are binding like that they would have broke already
ive been there

 

[Brimmstone]

the bushing part numbers are 23130 and 24130. The 24130s can be adjusted to perfect instead of swapping bushings till they're right. I personally prefer swapping bushings as they can't turn later. Here are the links

http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=23130*&cmd3=

http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=24130&cmd3=

 

[Goofyexponent]

I really don't think a bent rim would do what he says at 10MPH.

Something is seriously f'ed up and it doesn't sound like death wobble to me at 10 MPH. This isn't some sort of balance problem. Sounds like something needs some lube somewhere, I like the comment about the U joints too tight. Perhaps the wheel bearings too, but it seems to me if it was this bad they would have just destroyed themselves by now completely... maybe they have.

The more I think about it, the more I lean towards driveshafts and U joints.

At 10 MPH, what is the only part of the vehicle spinning fast enough to cause a HUGE vibration. Transmission, Transfer case (if so equiped), drive shafts (U joints, yokes etc) and rearends. Nothing else is spinning with any speed.

Jack 'r up and check for play in the wheel bearings, but I suspect the drivetrain is the issue.

My M5ODR2 in my F150 did some MASSIVE shaking at ANY speed over 25 MPH. I thought it was U joints. Replaced them ALL. Didn't fix it. One night in a blinding snow storm on my way to work...the transmission let go. I replaced it with a new one (Actually how I met BigRigTech, he sold it to me lol) and the vibration was gone. The inside of my old transmission looked like it housed a grenade that exploded

I am voting drivetrain!!!!

 

[MUDKICKR]

My moms truck has had a vibration/wobble in it for YEARS. I mean its been that way nearly since we've owned it. We've taken it to every suspension shop in the area and they all say that's simply how a Ford drives, if we want smooth buy a Chevy. I can't figure out whats wrong with it. How do you guys find wobbles and such? Its literally too dangerous to drive anymore, we parked it yesterday. It will be its final resting place if we can't figure out what's wrong with it.

Here's what its doing.
For the longest time it was a wobble specifically at 45mph, where the steering wheel and the entire truck would shake like you were breaking the warp barrier or something, lol. But yesterday we couldn't even get it over 10mph. The steering wheel shakes so bad its difficult to keep it on the road, the shifter in the transmission moves from side to side 10 inches, the dash bounces up and down 2-3 inches, when you get out of the truck to clean out your pants it feels like you just finished riding a jack hammer. Its bad, really bad. Please help.

ok guys, it seems like everyone is hanging up with this "10 mph" statement but forgetting about it starting at 45 mph, so read it again.

For the longest time it was a wobble specifically at 45mph, where the steering wheel and the entire truck would shake like you were breaking the warp barrier or something, lol.

which would mean front end problem, hence feeling it in the steering wheel, if feeling it in the seat instead of the steering wheel then that would mean rear end

The steering wheel shakes so bad its difficult to keep it on the road, the shifter in the transmission moves from side to side 10 inches, the dash bounces up and down 2-3 inches, when you get out of the truck to clean out your pants it feels like you just finished riding a jack hammer.

that is classic death wobble, and it could be a number of things, but its best to check everything out in the frt end, then go elsewhere. i know he says its at 10 mph now, but that only means that its finally got that much worse that the problem should be obvious. i have seen death wobble at 10 mph. but without physically looking at the trk all we can do is guess. take the truck to an alignment shop that works on tractor trailers, they will know how to align your trk.
the rear end can have something to do with death wobble, but that is only if, someone has changed something back there. if it has been lowered or raised without the front end then that will throw off caster and cause you to have a frt end problem.
if you want to get it here i would ck it out for you, but im guessing WV would be to far.

 

[seawalkersee]

Hmmmm...It sounds to me like there has been a problem that has never been fixed. Now, you have at least two problems. Check them one at a time and let us know. Start with the rag joint and the steering box. Work your way out.

SWS

 

[BigRigTech]

I have seen a u-joint cause a wicked shake in a 2003 Dodge 2500 4x4, rear driveshaft at the diff....You thought the engine was toast when you drove it. I drove it myself, shook wicked. Put it up on stands, run it in 2wd and then 4wd to see if it's still there with no weight on the tires....This is how I found a bad wheel bearing in my Expedition a few months back.

 

[DragRag]

It is usually a pretty simple fix to get the wobble to go away. Rotate the tires and get over the idea that a steering stabilizer is the last thing you should do. These trucks should not be without a stabilizer in my experience, especially with a ttb front end. A straight axle is a whole different animal, but I run them on there to. Put it on there and it will likely go away. New shocks help to though. You will bang your head against the wall without the stabilizer.