LOOK OUT Air Hog 1.0 fuel system

[93cc7.3]

well after about 800 miles of testing i am glad to say a diy project i made has worked in a nutshell i made my own airdog system i use two electric fuel pumps one to push fuel and air out and one to draw air free fuel.

picture 1 shows my manual valves for switching my dual tanks, which has a 1/2 inch fuel line up to my carrier lift pump ... overkill i know

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next is the napa carter 4070 4-6 psi 72 gph pump

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next up is the heart of the system the separator tank

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now the line routing has changed the valves now tee together into 1/2 into the 4070 then to the tank then the carrier draws threw a 1/2 line at the bottom of the tank

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and 50 miles into the testing posing for a photo

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so all in all this is THEE best performance upgrade i have done i have adjustable fuel pressure now it runs smoother runs cooler and i got 18 mpg going 75 mph up to michigan truck weights 7600lbs this along with the heat exchanger has also removed almost all my smoke especially running waste oil

i can make this into a kit to buy or get you guys a parts list if your interested

 

[Wyreth]

I would be interested in a parts list, and I know less DIY type people most likely be interested in a kit.

 

[Dejomo]

Very nice build...

I'm pretty sure it can be worked out...but a parts list would be pretty nice.

Thanks.

 

[subway]

interesting, so how does this work? the first fuel pump pushes fuel into the tank and there is a return line at the top that all the air will go to, then the secound fuel pump pulls from the bottom of the tank where there is just fuel?

 

[93cc7.3]

That's exactly right the pushing punp has a higher gph rating then the puller that way it will be returning fuel faster than it will be used

As far as parts go I have
a 2 gallon airtank
napa 4070 pump
Carrier duralift pump
Ill list the parts needed to tap into a stock fuel system
you will need a 3/8 nylon fuel line splice
a 5/16 nylon fuel tee ( or cut the steel line section

3/8 barb for fuel in on the tank
1/8 pipe to 5/16 hose for return side
1/4 pipe elbow to 1/4 pipe to 3/8 hose
you will take the 3/8 comming off the fsv into the napa 4070 then 3/8 to tank then back to where you cut into the stock line

The return will be a tee into the 5/16 stock line

Defently put a inline filter pre pump.

Im going to be adding a gate valve on the return line so that the smaller the return line is the higher the pressure. Also I added a copper coil around the exhaust for the front tank which is my waste oil tank. Next I want to put my spare 7.3 filter head and filter between the pump and tank

 

[Goose_ss4]

how does the fuel level inside the tank stay full if both pumps
are running?

 

[6.9poweredscout]

i can't wrap my head around this...what's the purpose? looks like more to fail or leak.

 

[FordGuy100]

The pump from the tank to that small tank has a higher GPH rating than the pump from the small tank to engine.

 

[CaptTom]

My guess is, 1/2" lines due to waste oil v diesel viscosity, larger lines equal better flow cold which also means you can up the oil to diesel ratio.

The exhaust wrap is a great idea for cold oil, and with the excess return with the larger capacity/low pressure pump, heats up the tank oil faster as well as diverting some to the engine.

Looks like you have a couple of plugs in the tank that could be used for a small heater core to speed up the oil warming. Can you find a 12V heater core to fit the 1/2" hole? Maybe weld one in?

If it was for straight diesel, I'd say kind of fun but why. Being that it's waste oil.... total purpose install.

 

[93cc7.3]

Ford guy and captom both hit the nail on the head ...captom im looking into getting the fuel hot before it hits the 4070 it is not liking cold oil I've got a small tank heat coil im plumbing in tomorrow maybe if I really wanted to get crazy I could do a small heat exchanger down there I have a 30 plate before my carrier pump

 

[CaptTom]

It looks like you have two ports plugged.

How about using a bypass style system with your extra pump on the rail- "T" the pump to return some of the oil back through a heat exchanger (tube styles are fairly inexpensive and readily available in the marine industry) and plumbing it into your cooling system somewhere?

The plate may be too much of a heat sink and take away some of your heat necessary to make the oil warmer. Also, installing the tube exchanger can easily be installed onto the rail "Before" your auxiliary tank, warming things up even faster, this way you are heating 100% of the oil before it splits into various paths you've plumbed. You won't have to "T" the oil pump either to recirculate it.

Here is what an oil "cooler" looks like: http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/products/MarineOilCoolers.htm

Instead of passing cold water through it, you'll be passing hot coolant through it. Basically reversing the process(not the plumbing) or intent of the unit.

Save your plate for cooling the tranny instead.... trannies like it cooooool.

The only dilemma or shortfall I see with using coolant to heat your oil is, it will take much longer to heat up than with a 12V heater installed directly into the system. Cold days will take even longer to warm up the oil. Consider wrapping the oil reservoir with some insulation too. Both exhaust and hot water heating will work much faster. Make sure your wrap can take the exhaust heat. Your 1/2 rubber hose has plenty of wall thickness to insulate itself, looks like marine grade, just can't see it well enough to know for sure.


Sorry about the different conflicting idea's.... thinking out loud.

 

[93cc7.3]

Ya im weighing, my options right now I might step up the pump to a 6. To 8 psi and id like to keep heat passive coolant based if I do step up on the pump then I would have the 4070 that could be used for circulating duties

 

[GRU]

im watching this pretty closely. as you know i like to run 100% WVO in the summertime. my mech fuel pump is still functioning fine but would really like to go electric. especially now since i have a tank full of crappy WMO that must be pumped out as it keeps plugging filters almost immediately. im wondering also about a heat exchanger before the electric pump for viscosity reasons but what about keeping the pump cool? btw i applaud your engineering. youre one of the ones that thinks a bit outside the box.

 

[Brad S.]

I like the setup, for warming fuel. Better to do something like this when its warm outside, to fix any problems. Then be able to run trouble free in the winter.
Do you start up on regular fuel and then switch over?? then reverse when your about to shut off??
Beats the heck out my 6' of fuel line wrapped around the top radiator hose, and fuel tank in the bed.

 

[93cc7.3]

Ya I have the heat exchager plumbed in my system pre carrier pump

I was also worried about pump temp but it seems to be just fine getting close to 1k miles on the setup already last night comming home from work I ran on oil it was like 50 outside and It ran fine.


when I got home I felt around the 2 gallon tank was warm and my front heated tank was warm too next week when my friend gets back ill use his temp gun to get real numbers what I would like to do it put a second heat exchanger in at the inlet of the napa pump but then I don't think Ill have any heat in the cab I need to insulate the lines going to the tank for now