Injector Install and IP Rebuild Time

rpm427

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OK fellows it's time to do the IP and injectors and I have a few questions.I took all the lines loose today and am getting ready to pull injectors.Original truck with 122,000 on it so what is the torque spec on injectors?Do I need to put fuel in them after I put them back in as I know these trucks are a ***** to start when all done so I want to only do this once.I got matched BB's and going to get Mel to do Baby Moose for me so ring in and tell me what I need to do and look out for?
 

FoolhardyIDI

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32 Ft lb I believe. Make sure you get all the copper washers out with each of the injectors. Put copper anti seize on the threads of the injectors. Also if you haven't replaced the glow plugs, do it at the same time. Also put the anti seize on the glow plug threads. I torqued mine to 8 ft lb. Also a good time to replace the fuel filter Top off the filter before putting on. When putting everything back together keep the lines cracked on all of the injectors until you see fuel, then tighten them down. Once you get it running re-crack each line (one at a time) and make sure all of the air is out of the system.
 

icanfixall

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The above post says it all. I think the torque is actually 34 lbs but most will use 35 lbs torque cause its easier to set on a wrench usually. Replacing the fuel filter when you install the pump is a requirement really. As for pre filling it yes but add fuel only thru the outer ring of small holes in the filter. If you pour fuel directly into the center big hole you defeat the purpose of the filter. Any dirt will not be trapped by the filter and ruin a new pump. Timing the engine is a must after the injectors and pump replacement. The lines found on the pump and housing means nothing when it come to timing. All pumps are internally timed differently per Mel and any pump rebuilder. Please read up on pump removal and replacement. Never remove the pump still connected to the gear and the housing. You loose the gear timing no matter what the utube vids show you. A special 9/16 open combo wrench and a 5/16 12 point socket is really all thats needed to get the pump off the engine. Mel is a great guy with many years of experience on the pumps and injectors. I'm sure he will treat you fair and probably offer plenty of help. you might also replace the return line kit too. Usually they wont swap to another injector set. Mel sells them.
 

rpm427

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I always use anti-seize on threads and will take injectors out and reinstall today so I don't need to put fluid in top of injectors?Truck was kinda a ***** to start in the mornings when cool and always puffed gray/blue smoke when it did as I figure the injectors or at least one was leaking.Truck ran fine except when it was hot out and had what I describe as a light mis but cool weather ran nice,I figured it was time as I've had injectors,caps and lines for about a year now waiting for this moment so it's time.I'll change filter too I guess but hasn't been on there that long as I change every year regardless of mileage.Don't drive truck alot so getting some updating done as the next thing will be alot bigger trans cooler....Is the line on pump alignment for timing going to be good enough to try and start motor when I get my pump back etc. as I have no clue about this timing thing?
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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you don't pour anything on the injectors during install.keep them dry and clean.hard starts are generally glow plug system related.
seasons greetings friend.:)
 

rpm427

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Kinda off beaten path but does anyone know if Mel can rebuild and match a set of G Turbo injectors as I have several sets of take out from other trucks I've had?
 

gandalf

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... Please read up on pump removal and replacement. ..


Some people still do this procedure incorrectly. Some people even instruct you on how to do this procedure incorrectly.

Please read Mel's article on the proper way to service your fuel system. You need only the first portion of it to remove and install the IP, but read it all anyway, just for the education. I've pulled my IP twice, and had a printed copy of the article handy for referral.


Mel's Article
 

ironworker40

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I removed pump from truck, then with an assistant loosen all lines on pump leaving line clamps in place. Re move all the old lines at the same time and transfer to new pump on the bench.
Finger tighten lines to new pump.
Then put pump in truck and finger tighten all lines to injectors.
Now tighten lines on pump I used a crows foot and a short extension because I didn't have the special socket.
Now you can Pull pump back out and final tighten lines to pump.
This lined up all the lines nicely. When I put the pump in for the final time lines to injectors threaded right on. You don't want to be bending these lines to line them up.

It doesn't apply here but another note is if you have the intake manifold off the truck at the same time ,do the injector pump line transfer before you put the intake on and you will have a ton of room to tighten lines to pump, then remove pump and install intake.

Leave glow pugs out after pump ,injectors and filter is installed you can crank while breaking each injector line loose at the injector until you get fuel. This is easier on starters and batteries, plus motor spins faster and makes process go faster.
 
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rpm427

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My truck is Turbo so lines had to come off first.Got things cleaned up and injectors painted and back in torqued.Going to clean the fuel lines and respray them as well as check glow plugs as I just put them in this summer.Got IP boxed and getting ready to send off and will try to get this thing back together but the timing and starting it bothers me?
 

Kistthesky

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did you read mel's article that was linked a couple posts back? it covers everything you need to know! i kept it handy the first time i changed out an ip.
 

rpm427

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Trucks been back together for 5 months now and runs like new so far.Everything went back together nicely with exception of two leaks which I changed out the o rings on injectors and it quit.The Moose rebuilt IP doesn't seem other then stock to me as no large power increase I feel.Does idle and run good with the BB matched injectors but should after $1200 fuel rebuild with no labor cost since I did it.Got my trans cooler on also which worked out nice after making bracket and getting correct AN fittings.Seemed to help with temp as I see small difference in factory gauge temp
 

cpdenton

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Trucks been back together for 5 months now and runs like new so far.Everything went back together nicely with exception of two leaks which I changed out the o rings on injectors and it quit.The Moose rebuilt IP doesn't seem other then stock to me as no large power increase I feel

What did you set your timing at? This is one of the most Importent settings you can do when you install your ip.
 

icanfixall

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What did you set your timing at? This is one of the most Importent settings you can do when you install your ip.

This is an important as replacing the injection pump. Most will time to 9.0 degrees advance because of the horrible fuel quality ...
 

rpm427

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Reading while doing the research 9.5 to 10 is the recommended timing setting?
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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Reading while doing the research 9.5 to 10 is the recommended timing setting?

for those who live in California yes.they have awesome fuel out there to help reduce emissions.with the high cetane of 53 minimum 9* BTDC is where id start.

here in Maine with 40 cetane minimum (and probably maximum lol) 7 - 8* BTDC is about max.anything more advanced just produces more engine clatter.iv run multiple fuel economy tanks and all showed nothing gained past 8 BTDC here.

the better the fuel,the more advanced you can run.you'll know if the timing is out of range because it will either lack quick boost spool and feel like it runs out of juice up in the upper rpms or it will light off quick but still pull strong in the upper rpms.
you should experiment with 7,again at 8 and then again at 9 to see what you like best.if you own a meter/timing adapter then go wild and have fun trying different settings.
 

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