IM FED UP WITH THIS PIECE OF CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[sle2115]

I don't think anyone is slamming dyoung, I think they are slamming that you can't treat something so abusively and then expect things not to have issues. That being said, from what I understand, this engine is a different engine and he's just trying to get it running. I think what needs to be done has been covered, but probably the most important thing are the messages to just step away. I know he posted he needed it tomorrow, which ALWAYS adds stress and aggravation. I know I've called my truck worse than a piece of crap a time or two, and still contend there are design flaws that ford engineers should be castrated over! That being said, i've had my truck for quite sometime and if I didn't feel it was worth fixing, I'd have sold it long ago.

So, just calm down, take a step back, pinch out the fire on that fuse and take a deep breath. Have a cold drink, think about something other than the truck, and come back to it. I've found that I can do more in an hour when I'm not pissed off than I could in 10 hours while I am!

 

[THECACKLER]

A lot of good advice here. Treat all machinery as a set of systems. Break it down into sub-systems and qualify them in order.
For example, to run, an engine needs a set of
1. Cranking
2. Air
3. Compression
4. Fuel
5. Timing
It's easier to eat a whole Pig one bite at a time.
Anyways...
When I suspect air in system, which is often, I use a remote starter switch on the Fender Well Solenoid and loosen the Steel Line at the Injector about a half a turn, just one at a time and crank till I see fuel bubble up around the line through the middle of the nut. Tighten the nut and move to the next one.
Dyoung - Are these injectors you have set to "G" code (High Pop) or "D" code (Low Pop). I was just wondering if perhaps the IP can't produce enough pressure to pop the High Pop injectors.
Bill... I torque my Injectors to =<35ft# and my Lines to =<22ft#. I had one IDI I tore down that the Injectors were seriously over-torqued and every copper washer was extruded and stuck in head. It took most of a day to get them all out. Anti-seize will increase the torque effect by 25% to 35% if I am not mistaken. That's why I like it. I don't have to pull the wrench so hard either way, on or off.
Anyways, David, good luck with your truck. It's only a # 4 or #5 (Fuel or Timing) problem. See how close you are to solving it?

 

[SparkandFire]

I have no philosophical words of wisdom to add here, I myself have beat the crap outta things in my efforts to make them work again... I think DeepRoots has the right notion, when troubleshooting anything mechanical, you start with the obvious and work your way through logically. Sometimes at work I have to make myself a check list, it seems to me if you write something down, check it, and then scratch it off the list, then you can move on down the line to other things to check...

Eventually you'll have that "AH HAH!" moment where it all makes sense...

other than that, good luck!

 

[dyoung14]

The fix for the problem on the truck 5 dollars of gas and a lighter.... just kidding

Actually it costed me 69 cents to fix it, 1 69 cent clamp, and one fuel filter(free), the fuel filter was pretty much plugged up, i kept pulling the line off before the fuel filter and it would gush fuel oout like a water fall, so i knew it wasnt starving for fuel, but to my suprise the fuel filter was cloged up, after i changed it it started and ran like a dream, now it has an ungodly amount of power i need to make a new video this truck is fast now, i broke my bracket loose this morning that holds my stack i guess i didnt weld it good enough to hold up to 100MPH,

Only one problem left to fix, my #8 injector keeps leaking no matter how many times i change the o rings, so im going to change the cap and lines this evening

 

[dyoung14]

A lot of good advice here. Treat all machinery as a set of systems. Break it down into sub-systems and qualify them in order.
For example, to run, an engine needs a set of
1. Cranking
2. Air
3. Compression
4. Fuel
5. Timing
It's easier to eat a whole Pig one bite at a time.
Anyways...
When I suspect air in system, which is often, I use a remote starter switch on the Fender Well Solenoid and loosen the Steel Line at the Injector about a half a turn, just one at a time and crank till I see fuel bubble up around the line through the middle of the nut. Tighten the nut and move to the next one.
Dyoung - Are these injectors you have set to "G" code (High Pop) or "D" code (Low Pop). I was just wondering if perhaps the IP can't produce enough pressure to pop the High Pop injectors.
Bill... I torque my Injectors to =<35ft# and my Lines to =<22ft#. I had one IDI I tore down that the Injectors were seriously over-torqued and every copper washer was extruded and stuck in head. It took most of a day to get them all out. Anti-seize will increase the torque effect by 25% to 35% if I am not mistaken. That's why I like it. I don't have to pull the wrench so hard either way, on or off.
Anyways, David, good luck with your truck. It's only a # 4 or #5 (Fuel or Timing) problem. See how close you are to solving it?

The injectors arent the problem, there BB codes set to pop at 2300 psi and the truck has amazing power! and it smokes like a train now

 

[DeepRoots]

Great.
See simple stuff... now in the future. Get a damn vac/pressure gauge and test the fuel supply before and after the filter.

We still don't know what the fuel pressure is and/or if it is too much.

Drew

 

[THECACKLER]

Cool.

 

[dyoung14]

Great.
See simple stuff... now in the future. Get a damn vac/pressure gauge and test the fuel supply before and after the filter.

We still don't know what the fuel pressure is and/or if it is too much.

Drew

it runs too good for me to mess with it, i took my gran pa for a ride and he asked when i put the turbo on it, he couldnt beilieve it had that much power non turbo

 

[DeepRoots]

it runs too good for me to mess with it

errrrrm Ok.

Right. Why change the oil in my transmission? it runs just fine like it is....

 

[dyoung14]

errrrrm Ok.

Right. Why change the oil in my transmission? it runs just fine like it is....

**** like that i always do im very religious with fluid changes, oil every 3000miles or 3 months, whichever comes first, but i went back and found out what it is that more pressure does to it, it makes the timing higher which is fine by me

 

[88beast]

sweet it works
so the 2300 injectors are great well worth it?
i need more power to tow more soon cause 4k of stone only fills the bed half way and i gotta start off in low gear to get it going (autos suck)
and i change fluids weird but it works for me i use high grade stuff and run it out
usually oil changes are 12k or so and oil looks like i just poured it in

 

[DeepRoots]

88beast.
If your oil looks brand new after 12k miles in a diesel, you should be looking for a water leak.

In your signature it says you have a stroker crankshaft in your 7.3
Please explain what you used, I'm curious.

 

[88beast]

well i run 50 50 lucas and oil it turns black when put in but other than that it looks feels and smells like new
the stroker crank was purchased by the p/o and installed by him idr where he got it but it ads a good bit more power but it made high rpm hp and low rmp torque so accelleration sucks but it tows great i regularly haul 4k in the bed and 4k on a 1200lb trailer over mountains
i think its 7.6 liters now after the stroker
im gonna try 2300 psi injectors was gonna do 2100 but dyoung likes his
i wanna see if the effect of mods is multiplied

 

[icanfixall]

Barnett Performance is the only shop I know of that offers a stroker crank. Actually they offer two differant displacements.

 

[DeepRoots]

I was only asking because I don't see how you can add a larger crankshaft without different pistons.
There is no clearance at TDC to begin with, adding 1/4 inch would be impossible.

It seems like you'd want a whole new rotating assembly.