Idid not turning off right away

Nick88745

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When I go to shut off my IDI I turn the key backwards like a normal person would do.... and it takes about 5 seconds to shut off. This is kind of scary not having the motor shut right off with it being a diesel and all......

It runs completely normal after I turn the key backwards and a few seconds later shuts off completely normal.

7.3 idi turbo 1994


Thank You
 

franklin2

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Did you re-wire the ignition switch with toggle switches? Did you re-wire the alternator in anyway? I have seen this happen sometimes if you put the pump power or ignition coil power and the alternator exciter wire together on the same circuit.
 

79jasper

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So your diesel is dieseling? Lol
Sorry, had to.

Try disconnecting the FSV and see how fast it stops.


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Michael Fowler

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Oh my, your diesel thinks its a Mercedes! Seriously, the 5 cyl Merc Diesels use a vacuum motor to shut off the injection pump, and if there are vacuum leaks ( and in old cars there always are) there often isn't enough vacuum to shut off the IP--until you lock the doors! The door locks are vacuum actuated, and locking them shuts off the leaking part. Drivers of old Mercs often shut off the ign., remove the key, get out, and the engine keeps running, until they use the key to lock the driver's door.

Its not just these old trucks that have "issues"!
 

bike-maker

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Mine does this.
I canned the stock ignition switch and mounted a generic aftermarket one. Now when you turn the key off, all of the accessories turn off immediately, but the IP gets it's power cut off according to where the heaters blower motor is set;
The faster the blower motor is spinning, the longer it takes for the engine to shut down.
Been running it this way for about 4 years now with no issue.
My best guess is the stock ignition switch has a diode in it to prevent the blower motor from back feeding through the system and keeping the ignition circuit going for longer than it's supposed to.
 

franklin2

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No, the ignition switch has 3 or 4 sections to it. In other words, it's not a simple switch but a multiple pole switch. People think they can just tie everything together on one toggle, the factory must have been crazy to make such a complicated mess with the switch. But there is a reason they did it. When you tie everything together to one toggle switch, things will backfeed on the common terminal, the alternator being one. Sounds like your blower motor is also generating some current when it is coasting down.

A simple fix for some of this would be to buy a double pole toggle switch. They are very common and easy to get. It would have 4 terminals on it instead of just 2. Run the power in and jump together two of the terminals, and put the ip on one of the other terminals by itself, and put everything else on the other terminal. The ip will be separated from the rest of the electrical when the switch is turned off.
 

bike-maker

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It's running through a keyed ignition switch; but it's the same principle as a toggle. Just 3 poles on the back of the switch; constant power, key on power, and 1 for the starter (don't use this one, starter is on a separate momentary switch).
 

War Wagon

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Check your body ground wires like the ones that attach to the fenders and radiator support.
 

mjs2011

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Oh my, your diesel thinks its a Mercedes! Seriously, the 5 cyl Merc Diesels use a vacuum motor to shut off the injection pump, and if there are vacuum leaks ( and in old cars there always are) there often isn't enough vacuum to shut off the IP--until you lock the doors! The door locks are vacuum actuated, and locking them shuts off the leaking part. Drivers of old Mercs often shut off the ign., remove the key, get out, and the engine keeps running, until they use the key to lock the driver's door.

Its not just these old trucks that have "issues"!

Ha! My dad has an old 300D, and I took it for a few weeks last summer. It started doing this, though I never did try to lock the doors. I had to pop the hood everwhere I went. They have a stop connected to the throttle linkage, and if you push it, it causes the engine to shut down. I did that for about a week while I had it.
 

chris142

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Ha! My dad has an old 300D, and I took it for a few weeks last summer. It started doing this, though I never did try to lock the doors. I had to pop the hood everwhere I went. They have a stop connected to the throttle linkage, and if you push it, it causes the engine to shut down. I did that for about a week while I had it.

Did you get a good look at that benz throttle linkage? What were they thinking?
 

Nick88745

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do you know where grounds are located? I have a after market radiator-but I did not put it in. I have been looking in the Chilton's manual looking for a wiring description on the grounds, but I cant find one.
 

franklin2

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im lost lol

Answer this one question; Is your ignition switch all stock? No toggle switches or lawnmower type key switches mounted somewhere for running or starting the truck? All the wiring under the hood is stock? Any electric cooling fans and any other things tied to the red/green wire under the hood?
 

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