Check engine light at start up only. Stays on for a few extra seconds sometimes.

[Wrenchmonkey316]

I have a 1988 f250 7.3 idi. The dash engine light comes on at start and takes a few seconds to shut off. Sometimes it even takes an extra 20-30 seconds or so to shut off. Any thoughts? All your input will be appreciated.

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Also..Oil is full. Clean truck, seems to be pretty well maintained.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

That light gets its signal from an oil pressure switch. Has to be above ~8psi I think, which is quite low but the sensor is on the top of the engine. Best thing would be to get a real gauge on it to see what the pressure is actually doing. I have mine in the oil galley port on the driver's side. There are 4 ports but only 2 are accessible on a stock engine IIRC.
Could also be old oil/bad oil/low oil or perhaps someone got happy with the Lucas additive.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

So that light should be on during key-on-engine-off. Then it should detect pressure when the engine turns on and goes out. 20-30 seconds of no pressure is a long time. 3-5 seconds would be normal-ish.

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Ok yeah thanks, I’ll try that first. A few new aftermarket gauges and an oil change are definitely on the list. I really haven’t driven it more than a couple hundred miles so far since I bought it a few weeks ago. Drove it to the market a few times and took it to get some side boxes and to get it a little bit of a lift installed and that’s about it.

 

[Cant Write]

Nice pickup!!!

And thanks @The_Josh_Bear , I have always thought the check engine light on older cars were always emission’s related and of no real value. Boy am I WRONG

And I realize there’s no emissions on an IDI. I’m just thinking about all my OBD1 vehicles.

 

[Greenie]

The oil pressure switch can be swapped with an oil pressure sensor from an earlier Ford V8 - about $20. There's a resistor behind the instrument cluster that needs to be jumpered.

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

The oil pressure switch can be swapped with an oil pressure sensor from an earlier Ford V8 - about $20. There's a resistor behind the instrument cluster that needs to be jumpered.

How hard a job is that? Is it possible to access without removing much dash stuff?

 

[Nero]

Cluster is easy to take out, remove the trim around the headlight switch, remove the trim on the right side of the column, remove trim around the cluster, then unbolt it.
Hardest part is getting the speedo cable disconnected from the cluster.

 

[Kdo58]

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[Wrenchmonkey316]

Oil change seems to have stopped the engine light from delaying to shut off. It shuts off immediately now. The oil pressure gauge is better but still lazy and drifting so I’m going to need to get that done.

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Cluster is easy to take out, remove the trim around the headlight switch, remove the trim on the right side of the column, remove trim around the cluster, then unbolt it.
Hardest part is getting the speedo cable disconnected from the cluster.

Thank you. That’s great news. I remember having to do some similar stuff on a bull nose and it wasn’t so easy.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That’s great news. I remember having to do some similar stuff on a bull nose and it wasn’t so easy.

That's why I prefer quality aftermarket gauges. They will be much more accurate than even a modified factory gauge.

 

[Cant Write]

That's why I prefer quality aftermarket gauges. They will be much more accurate than even a modified factory gauge.

Do you just add quality gauges in a separate pod? Or replace the factory cluster? What brand of modestly priced gauges do you prefer?

Thanks!

@Wrenchmonkey316 glad the oil change helped.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Most don't seem to be very moderately priced these days unless they're made in China. I try to use Auto Meter or Auto Gage if I can. Auto Gage is made by Auto Meter and are usually priced less.