86truckpull
Full Access Member
like the title say on an injection pump with stock settings how many flats till the pump is maxed out
how manny flats can u go up on an injectipn pump
- Thread starter 86truckpull
- Start date
Guess you missed this thread, read it.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49403
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49403
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Nobody really knows till they try it. There is no factory setting that they are set to. If you do turn up the screw use only a high quality 5/32 allen wrench becauseits very hard to turn the adjusting screw. And if you bottom it out that will cause the piston plunger to hit the end of the fuel cylinder and hydraulic the pump. that will destroy the pump... You also need a pyro so you know whats going on in the engine...
86truckpull
Full Access Member
yah i have a pyro iv only gone up two flats and dont plain on goin anymore till i get my turbo just wanted to knw how many flats till it maxes out
86truckpull
Full Access Member
and not to sound like an ass but old bull what does that have to do with what im asking
lindstromjd
Black Sheep
It's what happens if you're not careful when you turn up the IP. Think of that IP as being ***** because the adjustment screw is very delicate, so you have to be very careful when you turn it up.
You really don't know where the screw is set at without tearing it down. The screw is hard to turn, it's only about a size #10. If you read the thread I was just cautioning people about adjusting. That fuel screw is adjusted when the IP is on a machine and very easy to see and the guy adjusting it does hundred's of them during manufacture/testing. A couple of flats shouldn't be a problem. How many flats to max is anyones guess.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
They aren't all the same. As Oldbull said they're calibrated on a machine by an experienced tech. Having said that, mine maxed out at about a turn, since it is a hex that would be about 6 flats. I backed it off to about 3 flats. Bottom line is you really ahve to be careful and you don't want it totally maxed, but I would feel completely safe going almost 6 flats then backing it off just a bit. Not because I know for sure but just from what I've red here, the mayhem in Oldbull's thread happens when it is completely maxed out and things go wrong. To be safe maybe back it out a flat?
Part of the problem is wear. What you are doing when you are tightening that screw, is you are flattening out a leaf spring that has a finger at each end. The fingers are what hold the plunger rollers and shoes in alignment with the cam ring and the slot the ride in. By making the spring flatter, you make it longer, which allows the plungers to ride out further on the cam ring. But at the same time there is less "meat" on the fingers to catch the roller shoe. If the shoe should get past the finger... well, you get the idea.
mariner45
Full Access Member
Do you have a preesure gauge connected to your intake ? With the higher exhaust temperatures you will need to monitor the boost pressure when the turbo is installed. More fuel and more air = greater output.
Without the turbo you should be very wary of playing with the adjsuting screw.
For what I want, I have had both the pressure gauge (boost pressure) and exhaust temperature gauge. I have my injection pump adjusting screw turned up just two flats and that gives me 12 psi boost (I use this as the max. limit for safety) and easily reach 1000F on a hot day climbing a steep hill loaded up, if I want to go daft. That is with a non-waste gated CTS turbo.
As the others have said, you really don't want to be messing with injection pump adjustments if you are not sure of what you are doing.
HTH
mariner
Without the turbo you should be very wary of playing with the adjsuting screw.
For what I want, I have had both the pressure gauge (boost pressure) and exhaust temperature gauge. I have my injection pump adjusting screw turned up just two flats and that gives me 12 psi boost (I use this as the max. limit for safety) and easily reach 1000F on a hot day climbing a steep hill loaded up, if I want to go daft. That is with a non-waste gated CTS turbo.
As the others have said, you really don't want to be messing with injection pump adjustments if you are not sure of what you are doing.
HTH
mariner
86truckpull
Full Access Member
Ik what I'm doing i just wanted to knw how far way from maxed out I am I have a pyro and will have a boost gauge when I install the turbo I aprciate the help but u guys need to relax I'm not a beginner with a starter tool box all I do is work on cars and truck ik the dangers not to sound like I'm trying to be an ass just dnt like being talk to like I'm dumb and shouldn't touch anything on my truck
You asked a question. No one here knows how much knowledge you have about IP's. No one inferred you are a ********. To bad you take it that way. My self, I try to answer a question/problem in the most detailed way of which I have knowledge of. That includes what to watch for.
Black dawg
Registered User
I used to call bs on the bottoming out of the screw causing problems, till one day I gave one the old "crank it all the way up" and it wouldnt start. It doesnt cause the pump to hydraulic, it distorts the plunger bores, not letting them move. I took mine apart, expecting to find a twisted shaft, but the shaft was intact. Some quick diagnostics found the plungers very stuck in the bores. Loosened the screw a bit and all is well and running fine 10k later.
oldblue05
PIN IT TO WIN IT!!!
I'm curious as to whats a good general rule of how many flats to make sure one is backed off of from maxxed out?
