Head pull and replace

[IDIoit]

Cleaning the threads in the block with a bottoming tap is always an important step to getting proper torque on the bolts. AFAIK, ARP only has taps, not dies, but you can get a thread-cleaning bottoming cap (not a thread cutting tap, google it to understand the diff if you don't). You can use a wire wheel to clean up the bolt threads. After cleaning the bolt holes with a tap. blow them out with air, then again with brakecleen and air again until they are sup clean. Then use motor oil on the threads of the bolt. ARP has a great lubricant, but it effects the torque values a little.. I don't know by how much but you could inquire to them if you wanted to use it. Clean threads with a light coating of motor oil is what the original torque specs were written for.

General question to those advocating Hylomar... is there a spray product? I don't see on in the catalog I have.

i respectfully and completely disagree.
as you encounter debris with a tap inside a thread, it can cut the threads.
you do not want to be removing material from the threads.
they do make thread chasers that are not carbide, and will not cut the threads.

if you absolutely have to use a tap, do it by hand, do not use a handle or a wrench.

using a tap on accessory holes isnt a big deal, but something torque specific like head bolts need to be handled with kids gloves.


relapping valves is a great idea however.

all you need is a spring compressor, a drill , lapping compound, and some dye.

if testing the valves with diesel shows that a few are not seating more than you like,

dye the valve and the seat, install the valve with lapping compound and spin the valve on the seat.

when you have a nice shiny metal ring around the seat and the valve, it should seal better.

also check your guides, if you feel that you can throw a hotdog down that hallway, explore other options!

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[riotwarrior]

I've used bottoming taps for some 35 years with never a problem. First BLOW out bolt holes. This helps make it a cleaner and smoother job.

Using a bottoming tap you are mearly chasing threads, not pushing to cut threads, be careful if you have little or no experience be cautious and if you feel a tap biting stop, blow out hole, clean with brake clean and blow again retap...see if it is better. The main thing is NOT to put diagonal pressure or force tap cutting threads, it's to clean off rust, and debris only...

If you doubt yourself and capabilities then find someone to assist you who is IN THE KNOW.

BEFORE LAPPING OR REMOVING VALVES, GET A SMALL SET OF NUMBER STAMPS AND STAMP EACH VALVE AND HEAD LOCATION WITH A NUMBER OF 1-8 MEANING 3X1 3X2 AND SO ON. THIS MAKES SURE THAT BOTH VALVES STAMPED 1 GO INTO 1 HOLE AND 2 IN 2 HOLE AND SO ON AND ALLOWS YOU TO REMOVE THEM ALL FOR COMPLETE CLEANING OF HEAD AND RETURN THEM TO THEIR ORIGINAL HOME.

IF NO NUMBER STAMP..ENGRAVER? CENTRE PUNCH ETC...

Lapping valves is an ok idea in that you will be able to see if the guides are WTFO or not. No sense putting on chuffers to replace a chuffer right?

Handlap or light drill lap...you only need to by some compound, which is likely about 8 bucks for a bottle and an spring compressor. The style for ON engine is fine...like this as our valve springs are not heavy pressure. See Below.

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When you have completed the lapping you will want to pressure wash those heads thoroughly to remove any and all traces of the abrasive media. Blow them dry and when assembling a light coat of oil on the valve stem before inserting is a good idea. Install seals and associated hardware and golden.

The method of testing the valves sealing only tells you it's sealing not if a guide is worn. And for that test I would use something thinner than diesel, coolant would be ok water ok, anything thinner than diesel with a smaller molecule is idea as it finds the leaks better IMHO.

Spraying gaskets with Hylomar or Copper Coat is ok, though most manufacturers suggest dry, it will help seal well on imperfections and around the water jackets.

When I spray I do two light coats per side, suspending the gasket on a coat hanger or wire and follow instructions on can.

IIRC the head bolts as mentioned are to be lubed with engine oil per IH/ FORD's spec. The ARP lube is primarily for studs.

JM2CW on this subject, others experiences may differ....

 

[Zaggnutt]

Thanks guys. This is exactly the info I was looking for. As usual you have gone above and beyond to teach and share knowledge and I appreciate it more than I can express.

IDIoit could you endulge me for the sake of clarity regarding the lapping procedure? The dye is that in the pic? Im on the phone so I couldnt tell. Noted the lapping compound. Product name for dye? The procedure you are suggesting is to compress the valve spring, dye the area, put the compound where specified.then use a drill to spin it? The drill is just tightened onto the valve stem no special adapter or anything?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Thanks guys. This is exactly the info I was looking for. As usual you have gone above and beyond to teach and share knowledge and I appreciate it more than I can express.

IDIoit could you endulge me for the sake of clarity regarding the lapping procedure? The dye is that in the pic? Im on the phone so I couldnt tell. Noted the lapping compound. Product name for dye? The procedure you are suggesting is to compress the valve spring, dye the area, put the compound where specified.then use a drill to spin it? The drill is just tightened onto the valve stem no special adapter or anything?

No, not that way.
Ya pull all the valves out of the heads, remove springs so the valves can be removed, mark them as riotwarrior said. They make a stick with a suction cup on the end to put in a drill, suction cup goes onto the face of the valve, apply course lapping compound to the valve seat surface and spin it with the valve back in the head, after a short lapping cycle, pull out valve, wipe valve clean, wipe valve seat clean , apply blue dye to seat, insert valve and spin lightly, remove valve, all dye should have been removed, if not lap again, this time using only fine lap. Do that 32 times, that will lap all the valves. Fer Sista.
I'm gone, gonna watch NASCAR til 6:30 Bye.

 

[Zaggnutt]

No, not that way.
Ya pull all the valves out of the heads, remove springs so the valves can be removed, mark them as riotwarrior said. They make a stick with a suction cup on the end to put in a drill, suction cup goes onto the face of the valve, apply course lapping compound to the valve seat surface and spin it with the valve back in the head, after a short lapping cycle, pull out valve, wipe valve clean, wipe valve seat clean , apply blue dye to seat, insert valve and spin lightly, remove valve, all dye should have been removed, if not lap again, this time using only fine lap. Do that 32 times, that will lap all the valves. Fer Sista.
I'm gone, gonna watch NASCAR til 6:30 Bye.

Got it. Thanks! Any recomendations on the lapping rods? Not.much to be found on the interweb... enjoy the race!

 

[Zaggnutt]

Was wondering... is the dial indicator necessary for measuring valve movement? I have specs in the haynes but I am thinking if I can see side to side movement it is probably worn.

 

[IDIoit]

best way to tell, is when the spring is off, you will see the top of the guide look like an oval.


no thats the lapping compound in that pic.

when i do this, i do 1 valve at a time.
just the way i do it.
dykem, is a layout fluid. for marking and watching wear, and machining.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dykem-Steel...562?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c313cb5c2

 

[Zaggnutt]

best way to tell, is when the spring is off, you will see the top of the guide look like an oval.


no thats the lapping compound in that pic.

when i do this, i do 1 valve at a time.
just the way i do it.
dykem, is a layout fluid. for marking and watching wear, and machining.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dykem-Steel...562?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c313cb5c2

Okay thanks. Assembling tools now.

 

[riotwarrior]

Watch my post mortem video to see a chuffer valve and just how kuch play it has..there is a description in it explaini g whats what..

Yes you can connect a drill to stem of valve...very low speed and pop valve open closed when zpinning it with a light pressure....

Or use the suction cup kn a stick...and do it like starting a fire back n forth between hands lift n pop valve as well during this one

 

[Zaggnutt]

Watch my post mortem video to see a chuffer valve and just how kuch play it has..there is a description in it explaini g whats what..

Yes you can connect a drill to stem of valve...very low speed and pop valve open closed when zpinning it with a light pressure....

Or use the suction cup kn a stick...and do it like starting a fire back n forth between hands lift n pop valve as well during this one

Yeah I watched it before so I am familiar. Got the compound, lapping rod today. Ordered the dye. I will be picking up the heads this week and starting disassembly. I have new springs and seals (Thanks Typ4). I will be cleaning up the rods, rockers, that are separate. Picking up a Vernier Caliper to check clearances, etc. Thanks for your help guys. Should be doing the work in a week or so. I will post pics of the heads and update when it warrants. Drink up you ******** you gotta go to work tomorrow!

 

[IDIoit]

after a day of drinking, im damn near sober. blasphemy!

 

[laserjock]

I was going to say if you are in a hurry, I found a tube of dychem blue type marking compound at Napa. They had one randomly. One old crusty guy in the place knew what I was looking for and that they had ordered some for someone a long time ago.

 

[Zaggnutt]

I was going to say if you are in a hurry, I found a tube of dychem blue type marking compound at Napa. They had one randomly. One old crusty guy in the place knew what I was looking for and that they had ordered some for someone a long time ago.

Ah poop. I googled it and couldn't find it anywhere local so I ebay'd it. Thanks anyway, brother. Appreciate it.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I got a 12 PK of Bud regular about a week ago, I think 4 of them are gone already.

 

[laserjock]

Easy there Bill. Wouldn't want anyone to think you have a problem...[emoji6]