Having my engine overhauled, anything special i should have shop do?

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I pulled the motor on my parts truck to have it rebuilt so it's ready to swap in my truck. Took me about 4 hours from start to finish with getting the radiator core out so i can resuse it on my truck. It's a 94 IDI factory turbo, has 168k on it i'm having my machinist dissasseble it and look it all over then rebuilt it with studs, a cam either from Russ or Justin, the 910 springs (where can i get these from?) Justins intake, and the 200SX turbo from Justin. Anyway is there anything special i should have done while its out? Any brand of head gaskets to avoid or bearings? I have read that the factory oil pump is better than the aftermarket ones, with 168K am i better off just reusing the stock one? If lifters are OK i was going to reuse them as well as pushrods. i'll be resealing the oil cooler and doing all the bolt on stuff when i get the engine back. I dropped of my rebuilt heads with the engine too so he could choose between the two.

The engine was fun to get out, i could not for the life of me get the auto trans to separate so i just used brute, well Bobcat, force. It's amazing how strong that shift linkage cable is drug the truck about a foot trying to get it to come forward. Through all that and lifting the entire engine out it was held entirely by the two locating tabs and when i set it down i pulled it apart with one hand go figure. I had a jack and wood under it and all and couldnt get it to seprate.

I also pulled the radiator core because its in good condition, mine is missing the entire passender side mount from what looks like a battery leak. Should i weld in any additonal support to the mounting area? I plan on using some good rustoleum paint, i'm not sure i want to POR15 it, i've heard mixed things with it. The rustoleum protective enaml has stuck to everything i've put it on so i will probably stick with that.

 

[riotwarrior]

Blessed are u for that support.

Not sure how one could not seperate engine trans but ok...will go with it.

Sounds like your on right track for sure.

Wait on teardown till decision and suggestions come from me...I want see what the what...

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I've had a few dozen engines and transmissions out and apart, i couldnt get it to budge. No flatblade, no pry bar, no pipe against anything, no jacking up, no lowering it down, it was fused. I actually thought there was a bolt i missed until i saw it partially separated after i got it out

 

[jwalterus]

avoid chinese bearings if at all possible, this is from personal experience in applications other than IDIs

AFAIK, I am one of the very, very few who have actually had an oil pump fail and replaced it, I'd keep the factory, they are exceedingly simple in design, and I kept my failed pump because I'll probably fix it if I ever need one (spun the shaft on one pump gear, I could turn a new one on the lathe easy enough and press it in), also, the pump's about $200 in and of itself...............

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

What brand of engine paint do you guys prefer? I am thinkig i will probably paint everything blue.

 

[typ4]

Balance it. Plastikote engine enamel. King bearings. Or clevite 77. Use original oil pump.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Also what's a good upgraded clutch? Luk or southbend? The turbo i got is good for 30psi but i was thinking with stock compression and studs i'm probably limited to 20psi? Is there a preffered ZF5 rebuilder that you guys use or really any transmission builder? I am probably going to replace the clutch and transmission at the same time, the truck has 205k on it, everything else has been replaced and i've left the driveline for last. Then everything but the rear will be new.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Would this be a good clutch for a semi built setup?

http://www.amazon.com/South-Bend-19...9828&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=luk+clutch+7.3+idi

 

[jwalterus]

that's redonculously high priced

IIRC I spent 160 on my LUK kit

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Thats for 375hp and 800ft lb though. Will a LUK handle that? That last thing i wasnt to do it have to pull a transmission and replace a clutch. It's worth $500 extra to me to not have to take my truck down for a day take the transmission back out becasue it slips. I'm a one time, spend the money, do it right kind of person.

 

[TahoeTom]

Have the machine shop leave the factory freeze plugs in place.

 

[jwalterus]

Thats for 375hp and 800ft lb though

you manage that in an IDI, I expect to see dyno sheets

look at the LUK 07-131

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

That's only 300rwhp and 640rwtq with a 20% loss which doesn't seem like that much to me.

Thanks I'll tell them to leave the plugs in!

 

[IDIoit]

you said youre gonna be running an aftermarket turbo.
i would send the slugs to Justin and have him shave them and ceramic coat them.

i also ran a bottom girdle. i dont plan on making power any where near the stress rating on the stock bottom end, but i like having things tied together.

comp cams 910 springs can be had at any of their distributors.
i.e. Summit Racing, Jeg's and any other performance **********.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-910-1?seid=srese1&gclid=CMHdg6mIjM0CFQUFaQod9fUK7Q

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I spoke to Justin about it, i am not looking to make TONS of power from it but wanted to atleast get some gains from the extra available air and hopefully clear up some of the smoke from the Bull Moose. I was thinking i can run 20psi without shaving or ceramic coating the pistons and running head studs. Do you think that's un reasonable? I'd think shaving would make the pistons weaker. I have heard talks of possible decompression gaskets hes trialing too, i'd rather use that than shave pistons. But this is a daily driven truck that weighs 9,000lbs and is regularly at it's 10k mark with stuff in the bed. I'm really just rebuilding everything for efficiency and reliability.

This is the turbo i ordered from him as well as the 3" down pipe upgrade

http://www.idiperformance.com/store/p66/R&D_Stage-1_factory_drop_in_Turbo.html