glow plug power?

[79jasper]

When I did mine I mounted my solenoid on the strap going across the coolant reservoir tank. I just used some bullet connectors and old amp wire I had laying around. Soldered and heat-shrinked.

 

[Dave 001]

Dose it matter what type of wire I use?

The factory "wire" is actually fuseable link type wire. NAPA sells it on a 10' roll or 20' or something like that. I would have to look at the roll I have to be sure. I guess other good parts stores have it also.

 

[CurtIDI94turbo]

John, have you checked the glow plugs? They may be burnted out.

 

[79jasper]

The factory "wire" is actually fuseable link type wire. NAPA sells it on a 10' roll or 20' or something like that. I would have to look at the roll I have to be sure. I guess other good parts stores have it also.

I thought the only "fused" part was coming off the starter solenoid? I just cut it out. If someone really wanted to keep it fused, just used the big maxi fuses.

 

[ADV]

John, have you checked the glow plugs? They may be burnted out.

Have not checked them yet but I am sure they are. truck would not start and then found out I had 11.8 volts to them all the time with the key on so just thinking they are junk. Just want to go through everything and make it work better.

 

[Dave 001]

I thought the only "fused" part was coming off the starter solenoid? I just cut it out. If someone really wanted to keep it fused, just used the big maxi fuses.

I'm refering to the wire that runs from the controller to the glow plugs (I didn't make that clear in my last post).

 

[ADV]

So to make it clear I need to use fuesable wire to from the solenoid to each glow plug?

 

[79jasper]

I'm refering to the wire that runs from the controller to the glow plugs (I didn't make that clear in my last post).

The harness I took out didn't have any fusible links in it anywhere. Did yours? Or were you saying it'd be better to have it?
Or maybe I misunderstood something you said. I can look at my brothers 93 tomorrow to see if his has it.

 

[franklin2]

Have not checked them yet but I am sure they are. truck would not start and then found out I had 11.8 volts to them all the time with the key on so just thinking they are junk. Just want to go through everything and make it work better.

I thought we went through this before in a previous thread. The phantom voltage comes from the computer circuit in the controller, and will go away if the harness is plugged into GOOD glowplugs.

Fusible links are very short undersized pieces of wire with colored rubber around them. The act like fuses. I have never heard of a "fusible link" wire that was used with a length to it.

You are going in all directions. Have you checked for continuity on the glowplug tips to the engine block to see if they are good?

Have you plugged in all the glowplugs onto the wiring harness and checked for voltage at the controller like you said you were going to in a previous post? The glowplugs have to be good and attached to the harness, and you need to have someone inside to hold the manual button you added down before you take any readings. When they push the button in, your controller should give a good "clunk" sound if the relay is coming in.

 

[79jasper]

Fusible links are very short undersized pieces of wire with colored rubber around them. The act like fuses. I have never heard of a "fusible link" wire that was used with a length to it.

May I ask who that was directed to?
I've only seen the links up close to the power source.

 

[franklin2]

The factory "wire" is actually fuseable link type wire. NAPA sells it on a 10' roll or 20' or something like that. I would have to look at the roll I have to be sure. I guess other good parts stores have it also.

I was referring to this reply about the fusible link wire being on rolls and to use long lengths to replace the glowplug wiring. I need to be educated on this a little bit, never heard of it before.

 

[79jasper]

I was referring to this reply about the fusible link wire being on rolls and to use long lengths to replace the glowplug wiring. I need to be educated on this a little bit, never heard of it before.

I see. I agree, me either. I'm open to ideas though.

 

[ADV]

I thought we went through this before in a previous thread. The phantom voltage comes from the computer circuit in the controller, and will go away if the harness is plugged into GOOD glowplugs.

Fusible links are very short undersized pieces of wire with colored rubber around them. The act like fuses. I have never heard of a "fusible link" wire that was used with a length to it.

You are going in all directions. Have you checked for continuity on the glowplug tips to the engine block to see if they are good?

Have you plugged in all the glowplugs onto the wiring harness and checked for voltage at the controller like you said you were going to in a previous post? The glowplugs have to be good and attached to the harness, and you need to have someone inside to hold the manual button you added down before you take any readings. When they push the button in, your controller should give a good "clunk" sound if the relay is coming in.

So far I put a voltage meter on the wires that supply power to the glow plugs with them all plugged in and I had 11.8 volts then I pressed the button and it went up to 12.2 and there was only a slight click at the solenoid. At that point I took the main power wire off until I can do some more tests.
I should get it in the garage in a few days to check it all out.

 

[ADV]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-85766

This is what I thought you were talking about.

 

[franklin2]

So far I put a voltage meter on the wires that supply power to the glow plugs with them all plugged in and I had 11.8 volts then I pressed the button and it went up to 12.2 and there was only a slight click at the solenoid. At that point I took the main power wire off until I can do some more tests.
I should get it in the garage in a few days to check it all out.

Keep everything plugged in, and keep going from point to point checking for voltage. I would start first by putting the meter on a glowplug wire itself and see what you get. You should be able to unplug one, and keep the other 7 plugged in, and get a good reading, 7 plugs will keep a good load on it.

If you get voltage there you should be good to go. If not, the next stop is the large terminal on the controller that all the glowplug wires go to. That's the one labeled "glowplugs" in the picture below.

If you still don't get it there when the button is pushed, then go to the one labeled "battery +" in the picture. Push the button again. If you have it there, then something is going on with the controller. I have heard a common problem is that wire in the picture labelled "ground". It goes around somewhere underneath for a good ground, and apparently the connection goes bad, I have heard guys talk about that before.

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P.S. How come the IMG codes don't work? Do they have them turned off or am I doing something wrong? They always worked before.