glow plug power?

Dave 001

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The wire (I think it's brown if I remember correctly) that goes from the large stud on the glow plug solenoid to the eight glow plugs is fusible link wire. (circled in red)

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Fusible link wire is available in short repair sections as well as in rolls like this.....

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Fusible links are more than just small gauge regular wire designed to burn out before the rest of the wire. Fusible link wire has very high temperature insulation which is supposed to contain (and keep insulating) the wire that is inside when in burns out from overload.

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Fusible links do not always work as designed. I've seen fusible links were the insulation burned through before the wire burned out. But they do usually work. Even though fusible link wire is not perfect, International had a good idea to use it and I recommend you follow their lead.

Consider this..... all eight glow plugs draw about 120 amps total. You have (or should have) a 2 gauge cable feeding the glow plug solenoid from the batteries. With good, hot batteries you could have up to 2000 amps of wire frying, truck burning down power availabe. So for safety reasons you protect the glow plug circuit by installing a 150 amp mega-fuse between the battery and the 2 gauge cable. OK everything's cool now...but not really because a short in the glow plug circuit is most likely going to happen with the small brown wire. The 2 gauge cable (essentially starter cable) has very, very durable insulation (When was the last time you saw a starter cable short out and burn? I never have. That's pretty durable stuff. So durable none of the auto manufacturers even bother putting any type of short circuit protection on it. It's just connected right to the battery.) The brown wire is small, spends years sitting on top of a hot vibrating engine, sometimes has to deal with getting drenched in Diesel fuel, and the plugs that go on the glow plugs are well known for crumbling. OK, so the unfortunate day comes when the brown wire shorts out......it starts smoking, the conductor is glowing red (hmmm sounds a lot like a glow plug!!) and the Diesel fuel that's been leaking from o-rings (been meaning to fix that) starts smoking eventually lighting off and burning your beloved truck to the ground. But you have a mega-fuse...that can't happen. Not so. That mega-fuse was rated at 150 amps. 50 amps will easily fry that small brown wire and that 150 amp mega-fuse will feed a 50 amp short all day long. Sound far fetched? Not really. Electrical shorts have been known to cause vehicles to burn to the ground.

In a perfect world, each glow plug would have its own individual wire and each wire would have it's own 20 amp fuse. That would be excellent protection but it's not very realistic (especially for the OEM). So the next best thing would be to make the glow plug harmess out of fusible link wire and this is the route International took.
 
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franklin2

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The wire (I think it's brown if I remember correctly) that goes from the large stud on the glow plug solenoid to the eight glow plugs is fusible link wire. (circled in red)

You must be registered for see images attach


Fusible link wire is available in short repair sections as well as in rolls like this.....

You must be registered for see images attach



Fusible links are more than just small gauge regular wire designed to burn out before the rest of the wire. Fusible link wire has very high temperature insulation which is supposed to contain (and keep insulating) the wire that is inside when in burns out from overload.

You must be registered for see images attach



Fusible links do not always work as designed. I've seen fusible links were the insulation burned through before the wire burned out. But they do usually work. Even though fusible link wire is not perfect, International had a good idea to use it and I recommend you follow their lead.

Consider this..... all eight glow plugs draw about 120 amps total. You have (or should have) a 2 gauge cable feeding the glow plug solenoid from the batteries. With good, hot batteries you could have up to 2000 amps of wire frying, truck burning down power availabe. So for safety reasons you protect the glow plug circuit by installing a 150 amp mega-fuse between the battery and the 2 gauge cable. OK everything's cool now...but not really because a short in the glow plug circuit is most likely going to happen with the small brown wire. The 2 gauge cable (essentially starter cable) has very, very durable insulation (When was the last time you saw a starter cable short out and burn? I never have. That's pretty durable stuff. So durable none of the auto manufacturers even bother putting any type of short circuit protection on it. It's just connected right to the battery.) The brown wire is small, spends years sitting on top of a hot vibrating engine, sometimes has to deal with getting drenched in Diesel fuel, and the plugs that go on the glow plugs are well known for crumbling. OK, so the unfortunate day comes when the brown wire shorts out......it starts smoking, the conductor is glowing red (hmmm sounds a lot like a glow plug!!) and the Diesel fuel that's been leaking from o-rings (been meaning to fix that) starts smoking eventually lighting off and burning your beloved truck to the ground. But you have a mega-fuse...that can't happen. Not so. That mega-fuse was rated at 150 amps. 50 amps will easily fry that small brown wire and that 150 amp mega-fuse will feed a 50 amp short all day long. Sound far fetched? Not really. Electrical shorts have been known to cause vehicles to burn to the ground.

In a perfect world, each glow plug would have its own individual wire and each wire would have it's own 20 amp fuse. That would be excellent protection but it's not very realistic (especially for the OEM). So the next best thing would be to make the glow plug harmess out of fusible link wire and this is the route International took.

I did some more research on it, and you are correct, a fusible link is a regular undersized wire with special fire retardant insulation on it. Is it needed for the glowplug wiring, I am still not sure. This brings up a good point though;

As crappy as the factory wiring was and is on the glowplugs, it all was designed with a original purpose, even though some of it didn't work to well. The factory glowplug system did have protection originally, the two fusible links that feed the two yellow wires to the controller. I know you guys are trying to improve things by installing a larger wire to feed the 12v to the controller, but if you think about it, this increases the potential at the controller itself, depending on what type of fuse you use to feed your new wire.

You are correct, you have all that potential power at the controller if you install a 2 gauge or larger wire to feed it, but with the factory system, the two smaller 10 gauge wires presented some voltage drop to the system, which would be somewhat of a control over what could possibly happen if something did go wrong at the controller or the glowplug wiring.
 

Dave 001

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You are correct, you have all that potential power at the controller if you install a 2 gauge or larger wire to feed it, but with the factory system, the two smaller 10 gauge wires presented some voltage drop to the system, which would be somewhat of a control over what could possibly happen if something did go wrong at the controller or the glowplug wiring.

Early trucks did have twin wires but they proved to be a real hazard so Ford replaced them with a single 2 gauge cable in later model trucks. I'm don't know when they made the change but my '93 van has a cable.
 

Dave 001

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..... but with the factory system, the two smaller 10 gauge wires presented some voltage drop to the system, .....

Voltage drop is caused by resistance (to flow). Resistance makes amperage draw go up. Higher amperage draw creates heat. Heat makes fire. What you are thinking is not correct.

There was probably nothing wrong with the twin wires. The problem (that I have seen) was the engine harness connector. That is always what melted down (again...that I have seen). Ford was incredibly stupid for running that type of current (120 amps) through the small terminals in that connector. I prefer Fords but sometimes I gotta' wonder where the engineer's head was that made that decision.
 

franklin2

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Voltage drop is caused by resistance (to flow).
The above is true.

Resistance makes amperage draw go up.
The above statement is not true. E=IXR or Voltage= current X resistance. If the voltage number is kept the same, and resistance increases, the current goes down. This is what will clamp down somewhat on the current if something happens.

Higher amperage draw creates heat. Heat makes fire.
The above is true, and the smaller wires would certainly get hot if something bad happened, but hopefully the links would blow before the wires melted.

Overall I think we are on the same page though. And I didn't know they went to one large wire on the later vehicles.
 

ADV

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Well all of my glow plugs are burnt out. Now I just need to figure out why did not have enough time to dig into it any farther today. How dose this go from working glow plugs to 8 junk ones over night? Maybe I will just do a starter solenoid and be done with the factory controller.
 

ADV

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They could've been stuck on and burned out. Have you tried removing any yet?

Every one came out nothing broke all went great with the removal. The burned out plugs are all marked beru I don't think I will ever run a different brand.
 

Dave 001

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How dose this go from working glow plugs to 8 junk ones over night? Maybe I will just do a starter solenoid and be done with the factory controller.

The controller itself may be bad but it may be just fine. The contacts in the solenoid could have arced one too many times and stuck together, in which case the controller would have no control at all.

I realize sometimes the controller does fail but personally I would keep the factory controls. With a manual setup, you risk leaving them on too long and burning them out....especially if you are not using Beru's. Plus if you should ever have to let somebody else drive your truck, chances are they will not understand the whole glow plug thing and will either burn out the glow plugs or crank the heck out of the engine to get it started.
 

ADV

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New solenoid ordered. Just going to wire it up with a push button I like that better than having the glow plugs run when the key is on. Might add a light on the dash that goes on when the glow plugs are burning so I will know if the solenoid ever gets stuck on again.
 

ADV

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Do I need to hook up all the extra wires coming out of the controller to my new solenoid if I am doing a push button? Or just hook up the keyed power the ground wire with my push button the constant 12 volt power and glow plug wires?

Thanks everyone for your help
 

79jasper

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No no no. The power side of your solenoid will come straight from the battery. Output side will be glowplugs. Most solenoids will use a switched positive power to engage the solenoid. My button power is a constant so I can run the glowplugs with the key off or on. The other side of the switch will go to the signal wire on the solenoid. Hang on, I'll get you a diagram.
 

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