glow plug power?

[ADV]

I have been reading a bunch of threads but can't find an answer to my question so here we go.

I have the glow plug controller wired up like it shows in the tec articles. Truck has been starting great for almost a year now run plugs 12 seconds then crank for 3-10 seconds it will start. Until 3 days ago run plugs crank no start run plugs crank no start. Had to use starting fluid it get it to start.

I think I have a bad controller but just want to make sure I am checking it right. I have 12.8 volts at the big red wire on the solenoid. The 2 brown wires connected together on the controller part they attaches to the metals s curve thing shows 11.8 volts with button not pushed and 12.2 with the button pushed is that right? I also pulled one wire off of one glow plug and I had 11.8 volts at the wire. So is my controller junk and stuck on or am I looking at this wrong? I got a new set of beru plugs but don't want to put them on until I get this figured out.

Thanks John

 

[Dave 001]

The 2 brown wires connected together on the controller part they attaches to the metals s curve thing shows 11.8 volts with button not pushed and 12.2 with the button pushed is that right?

You mention "button"....I'm assuming you have a manual push button setup, right? If so, you don't need the glow plug controller at all. Just use a heavy duty starter solenoid.

 

[ADV]

Yes I have my truck setup with a manual push button. Followed the tec article so removed the white ground wire and added a wire to my button. Is there a better way? I have a extra controller I was going to put in but need to get wife's car fixed before a work on the truck.

 

[franklin2]

I know it's hard to do, but you need to check these voltages while someone pushes on the button. Get ready with you meter on the big lead going to the solenoid on the controller and th eother lead on ground, and you will have your 12.8 volts. Then get someone to push the button. If the voltage drops to near zero, then you know you have a problem upstream and it's dropping all the voltage. Have you checked the factory plug that likes to melt? It's over there near the A/C housing on the pass side, were all the wires for the top of the engine cross over. The two big wires that serve the glowplug system like to melt the plug.

 

[ADV]

I know it's hard to do, but you need to check these voltages while someone pushes on the button. Get ready with you meter on the big lead going to the solenoid on the controller and th eother lead on ground, and you will have your 12.8 volts. Then get someone to push the button. If the voltage drops to near zero, then you know you have a problem upstream and it's dropping all the voltage. Have you checked the factory plug that likes to melt? It's over there near the A/C housing on the pass side, were all the wires for the top of the engine cross over. The two big wires that serve the glowplug system like to melt the plug.

Witch one is the big lead? The one on top of the solenoid that has the 12 volts commingle to it?

 

[opusd2]

Hey John, if I can get my truck into the shop today I will shoot some pictures for you.

Or have you figured it out already? It may be easiest to just run a supply lead to a starting solenoid and that to a manual pushbutton. For the time being anyway, while jumping out the system and checking the circuits. It's how I am running mine at the moment. When I install my "new" controller I will just reconnect the system as originally designed. But if I remember correctly, someone designed and worked up a nice circuit so that his wife and others who may not be as familiar with running the GPs the right amount of time, won't burn out the plugs. I don't remember who did it, but a quick search will find that out.

 

[opusd2]

There's this...
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/glowplugbypass.htm

 

[ADV]

There's this...
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/glowplugbypass.htm

This is what I followed to wire up my push button.

 

[franklin2]

Here's a pretty good picture I stole from somewhere. Check the one labeled "battery"

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[Dave 001]

See my crude wiring diagrams. One is for using the old style Ford starter solenoid, the other for the new style Ford solenoid. The solenoid grounds through the mounting bracket, so make sure it's mounted to metal. Otherwise connect a ground wire to the mounting bracket.

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For those that still have a functioning factory glow plug system, you can buy just a replacement glow plug solenoid if that is all that is bad. You don't have to replace the expensive controller if it's not bad.

 

[ADV]

So I can use any ford starter solenoid and get rid of the hole controller? That sounds like a good way to go.

Thanks everyone

 

[Dave 001]

So I can use any ford starter solenoid and get rid of the hole controller?

If you have a manual setup than you are only using the solenoid anyway. So yes you can do away with the controller. But a new solenoid just like what you have now is about the same price as a new Ford starter solenoid. So just buy the glow plug solenoid and leave the controller to use as a "mounting bracket" so to speak. That way you don't have to figure out how to mount the starter solenoid, possibly make a new bracket, rewire, etc, etc. Did that make sence?

 

[Dave 001]

Also bear in mind that the setup you have now is using a switched ground in order to turn the solenoid on and off. If you eliminate the controller and convert to a starter solenoid, you will need a switched positive source in order to turn the solenoid on and off. That's why I wrote what I did in post # 11.

 

[franklin2]

I second those last few posts. You have the ideal control solenoid right on the controller you are using now, if it's good.

 

[ADV]

The plastic around the ends that goes to the glow plugs is falling apart so I am going to put together new wires. Dose it matter what type of wire I use?