Fuel System Repair on the CHEAP?

[WisdomWarlord]

I have a 93 F350 CC Dually diesel. I have what looks to be about $ 700 in problems and $ 75 to solve them.
The front tank leaks bad. The fuel lines to and from both tanks leak bad. Both senders look real real rusty. Based on several fuel tank jobs I have done that look like this, I'm sure neither sender will survive removal. And I think the lift pump is bad but can't be sure until the rest of this is fixed. The only component the seems to be usable is the rear tank and probably the filler hose and neck.
Now for my questions.
Let's assume that all safety measures will be followed and that I have the skills to do this and the finished result will be leak free and strong..

I want to drill 2 holes in the bottom on the rear tank, install fittings for 1/ 2" fuel hose. Run those to the frame and run new metal line to the front, then tap into the tank selector and return lines.

My thought is that this will give me a stable fuel supply within my budget, but will kill my fuel gauge. I'm ok with no gauge for the winter. I want to install a 38 gallon tank in the back but I just can't right now. So this is my alternative. Will it work?
If not, please help me figure a way to make it work. New tanks and sending units are just not an option today.

Thanks
Keith HP

 

[icanfixall]

Well the short answer to the sending units about ready to pop... and your comment that you can dow without the level indicaters. Why not just find some broken senders in a wrecking yard and get them. As for the leaking fuel lines. The supply is 3/8 and the returns are 5/16. rubber fuel rated hose will fix that. you can run rubber hose from the tanks to the lift pump. You wont have any issues doing that with sucked flat hoses. Making holes in the bottom of the tanks to suck from them seems like a bad idea. Not sure why you want to do that.

 

[firehawk]

Holes on the bottom of the tank for fuel routing is a bad idea. There is a reason (several actually) why you won't find a tank made like that.

Best idea is just fix what is broken. If you can't afford to fix it all now, think how much money you will save on fuel.

 

[international]

Cheap? I say drill a couple holes in the top of the rear tank. Clean the top of the tank and grease your drill bit. One for 5/16 return and one for the 3/8 supply. Cut the end of the supply hose so it wont suck to the bottom of the tank. Stick both hoses in about a foot, secure them with silicone and some zip ties to the old sending unit and run them all the way up to the lift pump and return fitting respectively. That's cheap and should only take a few hours. As a bonus if your rear sending unit worked before it will still work.

 

[WisdomWarlord]

My reason for the holes on the bottom and for the rest of this is because it is all so rusty that I don't think any force, even if cutting the lines and slipping hose on will go well. I think trying to move anything will just add another leak to the mix. And I don't want to drop the tank of I can avoid it because I am picture that the tank straps won't survive either. Without dropping the tank, holes in the bottom is the only option I can like holes on the bttom either but there isn't much chance of damage because the spare tire is there covering the bottom of the tank.
The sender does work, sorta. At tank empty it reads 3/8 of a tank, but it's something.

 

[Hyde]

Holes on the bottom of the tank for fuel routing is a bad idea. There is a reason (several actually) why you won't find a tank made like that.

Ever heard of a sump?

 

[idiabuse]

I removed both tanks on mine drilled holes top and bottom for vents, returns and feeds.

Two holes in the factory sumps with steel #10 males coming out and at the front tank I put

in a T to eliminate the OEM transfer switch.

So my system is automatic when transfering fuel from rear to front. No switches no issues.

Been working great the last 5 years. I also eliminated every single OEM fuel connection and

replaced them all with AN style fittings. If I knew the location of the pictures are at I would post them.

Easier to just take more pics!

In the future I want just one tank in the rear, the 38 gallon bronco style tank. one tank with the same capacity as

both fuel tanks...


Javier

 

[idiabuse]

Holes on the bottom of the tank for fuel routing is a bad idea. There is a reason (several actually) why you won't find a tank made like that.

Best idea is just fix what is broken. If you can't afford to fix it all now, think how much money you will save on fuel.

I kept doing that until I was fed up with the BS and did it my way, Guess what? I wont ever have the same reoccuring problem with fuel leaks designed by some clown ever again...



Javier

 

[GOOSE]

Have you thought about simply lifting the bed and doing the work in plain sight? Powerwash the whole frame and tanks then douse the sending units with some penetrating fluid. You just may be able to get them to listen if you are able to access them and work on them easily. I'd pull the sump on the rear tank, repair it with some hose to reach the bottom of the tank and then run some hard line right up to the lift pump and return line connection. Good luck with your repair.

 

[WisdomWarlord]

Hmm. Remove the bed? Mine is rusted out real bad on both fenders so it's garbage. I have plans next spring to build a new bed anyway. So I could take off the bed, cut the floor out (its not rusty at all) and fab some fenders for the winter, running a flat bed of sorts. I think I have another thread to post. Thanks for all the input so far guys!

 

[jaluhn83]

I hate to say it, but if it's that rusty maybe it's time to scrap it and get a new truck. I'd be seriously concerned about driving with fuel tanks that are that rusty - sounds like an accident waiting to happen.

 

[WisdomWarlord]

Thanks for all the input. I found a 40 gallon Snyder fuel tank that started life on some medium duty truck but was bolted to the bed of a gas dually Chevy for 10 years. I'll bolt or to my bed, route new fuel lines and be done with it until the summer.
I agree that the factory tanks ain't trustworthy so this solves all my problems with fuel for the winter! And for under $100!

With that crisis solved, on to plans for the spring.

Thanks

 

[GOOSE]

Nice work.