yeah these are pricy buggers.that's partly why the zf5 swaps are common.if you don't mind the shifting,there's always this more affordable option.
Fluid chnage in E4OD throws a code!
- Thread starter tbrumm
- Start date
mccall52
Full Access Member
Ouch. Sorry to hear that. Makes me wonder what I've got to look forward to, I'm basically the customer and transmission shop rolled into one.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
You can't catch a break.
I think you should try this yourself. You have the TransGo sheet for the mods. Pick up An ATSG manual, Open it to the pump section and study away. Read the other parts too.
Go big and attack this thing. You will find they are not hard to work on. Just keep everything clean.
I think you should try this yourself. You have the TransGo sheet for the mods. Pick up An ATSG manual, Open it to the pump section and study away. Read the other parts too.
Go big and attack this thing. You will find they are not hard to work on. Just keep everything clean.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32387&d=1288446166
This is what I would try, it will eliminate any electrical problem, and might show a mechanical problem. It's pretty simple to do. You can get at the color coded wiresup by the firewall, but there are two PURPLE/YELLOW wires there IIRC, you have to get the one that goes to the connector at the trans. If you install it, shut it off any speed below 25 MPH. This mod is usefull for engine compression braking also, but only usefull down to 40 MPH.
Sorry to hear about the fiasco at the other shop.
This is what I would try, it will eliminate any electrical problem, and might show a mechanical problem. It's pretty simple to do. You can get at the color coded wiresup by the firewall, but there are two PURPLE/YELLOW wires there IIRC, you have to get the one that goes to the connector at the trans. If you install it, shut it off any speed below 25 MPH. This mod is usefull for engine compression braking also, but only usefull down to 40 MPH.
Sorry to hear about the fiasco at the other shop.
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Re-reading your posts I noticed that.
I would not use that Di-electric grease on any connector contacts in automotive circuits, except around the connector body itself to keep out mosture and dirt. Di-electric grease is an insulator, being as these trans operate at low voltage and dead grounding. It is only recommened to use on higher voltage contacts (like 120 VAC or VDC) then just a very thin coat. Not saying it's causing your problem, but it eliminates that chance, especially if any contact is loose.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Thanks for the support guys - I appreciate it. I am really thinking about going after the problem myself. After all, $2400-2800 will buy a bunch of new tools
like a nice new floor jack, trans adapter for it and some other goodies. Yeah, and I can't forget about the ATSG manual. I only put dielectric grease on the outer body of the connectors and not actually on the pins so that should not be a problem. I ahve considerred trying another computer, but the current one seems to be signalling lockup fine. I will ponder this some more, but I am definately leaning toward tearing into this myself. If nothing else, at least I have saved the remove and reinstall labor. IF i had taken the truck to the second shop first, I probably would have had them just go ahead and do the full rebuild - they certainly seem to be a professional outfit.
like a nice new floor jack, trans adapter for it and some other goodies. Yeah, and I can't forget about the ATSG manual. I only put dielectric grease on the outer body of the connectors and not actually on the pins so that should not be a problem. I ahve considerred trying another computer, but the current one seems to be signalling lockup fine. I will ponder this some more, but I am definately leaning toward tearing into this myself. If nothing else, at least I have saved the remove and reinstall labor. IF i had taken the truck to the second shop first, I probably would have had them just go ahead and do the full rebuild - they certainly seem to be a professional outfit.
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mccall52
Full Access Member
Are you still running the original E9 front pump? I'm getting ready to go through my new (to me) F5, going to make sure everything lockup related is moving freely and modified according to best practices.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Well, maybe you can get a "discount" since you are the customer and the shop. I think you have tried about all the stuff I have. Let me know if that new F5 pump solves your problem. You might get to fixing yours before I get to mine.
i hope you do it.it will be great to see the front pump,it's gears and mods in pics to see if it's in good shape and modded right or if something obvious can be spotted there.now i can't wait.imagine finally having a conclusion to this thread with knowing exactly what caused code 62!
is there anyone around local by any chance who can test a converter?
is there anyone around local by any chance who can test a converter?
You can do it Todd. Hell I was pulling E4OD's at the of age of 75 by myself. To get the cross support bolts/nuts off, a 1/2" air impact is really usefull. HF has a good trans. lift. You have to have the truck up at least 22" to slide the trans out. Trans. weights about 350 lb. Get the ATSG manual about $30.
That second lift looks real good, wish I had that, looks really stabile.
HF has 25% off on this Sunday. If you shop there, buy 1 item at a time, come back in 15 -20 minutes for something else for another 25% off.
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html
or this
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html
http://www.harborfreight.com//storelocator/location/map#wi
That second lift looks real good, wish I had that, looks really stabile.
HF has 25% off on this Sunday. If you shop there, buy 1 item at a time, come back in 15 -20 minutes for something else for another 25% off.
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html
or this
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html
http://www.harborfreight.com//storelocator/location/map#wi
tbrumm
Full Access Member
My biggest reason for not pulling the trans orginally was that I did not want the truck to be out of service for that long while I did the work. Obviously that is no longer a concern as the truck is down and will continue to be down for while yet. I have "adapted" to work around not having the truck. I have been carpooling with my Wife (which she enjoys) and when our schedules conflict, I just drive my work truck. I have done engine swaps and replaced clutches before, so it isn't like I have never gotten into something like this before. You guys are getting me fired up to get going on it and I appreciate that! 22" to slide the trans out? Heck, the darn thing is nearly that high off the ground now. I donlt know of anybody local that could test a TC. At this point, I think I would just install the TC OLDBULL8 sold me just to be safe.
tbrumm .. It's usually a self satisfaction to do the work your self and you know darn right you will do it right , you will save ton's of $$'s & end up with new tools , I was originally going to pull mine down at the 1st time but due to winter i had the shop pulled it down and handed to me. This forum offers great support and every one here is very knowledgeable .
From doing my Tranny which exactly like yours it's so simple , Just keep it clean . parts orientation is the ticket . If you will go pass the pump make sure to get one of these tools #91E. E4OD / 4R100 Rear Assembly Installation Tool found here (http://transmissioncenter.net/tools.htm) it will make your life EASY . Pull the Pump with a Puller ( you can home rig one your self ), See if you can land a bore tool and trim reamer for the VB which could be well good reason why you valve is sticking .
When separating the pump and installing it back together the alignment is a big key factor so try to locate Universal pump alignment tool or you can make one from big clamp .
Good luck and hopefully you find conclusion .
From doing my Tranny which exactly like yours it's so simple , Just keep it clean . parts orientation is the ticket . If you will go pass the pump make sure to get one of these tools #91E. E4OD / 4R100 Rear Assembly Installation Tool found here (http://transmissioncenter.net/tools.htm) it will make your life EASY . Pull the Pump with a Puller ( you can home rig one your self ), See if you can land a bore tool and trim reamer for the VB which could be well good reason why you valve is sticking .
When separating the pump and installing it back together the alignment is a big key factor so try to locate Universal pump alignment tool or you can make one from big clamp .
Good luck and hopefully you find conclusion .
tbrumm
Full Access Member
I have a small update. I drove the truck home from the other shop last Sunday. I was sicker than a dog this week so didn't get anything done other than make it through the week without losing too much time at work. The drive home on Sunday took about 1-1/2 hours and the TCIL never flashed once, but still no TC lockup of course. Temp gauge got as high a 170° when pulling a couple of steep grades, but was usually around 160°. Today I felt better, so I went and bought a mechanical oil pressure gauage and tee'd it into the cooler outflow line. I warmed the truck up and took it out for a test drive. The gauge reads between about 60 and 80 psi when running down the road. Watching the gauge when the led goes out, the needle will dip about 10 psi. According to Page 23 of the TRANSGo lockup complaint diagnosis "Watch the gauge when the LED goes out. The cooler line gauge should flick or dip whenever the LED goes on or off. If the gauge flicks/dips with the LED the solenoid and valve body and lockup valve are OK. Pull the trans out, the trouble is on the front end." So, it would seem that the converter is the problem, if I am interpreting the results correctly here. Since it does appear the TC is actually the culprit, and I have a new TC ready to install, and it would seem that I do not have to mess iwht pulling the pump, I think I am going to tackle this myself. Since I only need to get the old TC out and the new one in, I should not need to get the trans all the way out form under the truck, right? I am hoping I can just leave it on the trans jack, lower it down enough to get the old TC out and new one in and throw it back up. Any suggestions, tips, etc. greatly appreciated!
mccall52
Full Access Member
If you're doing a torque converter only swap, then it's pretty much simple, pull off the old, install the new. Stop me if you're already aware, but make sure the cutouts on the snout of the converter engage the ears inside the pump. I'd be trying to save some of that fresh fluid though, there should be a drain plug on the convertor itself.
What did you use for a test gauge? I'm looking at a cheap eBay oil pressure test gauge, 0 to 100psi, around $16.
What did you use for a test gauge? I'm looking at a cheap eBay oil pressure test gauge, 0 to 100psi, around $16.
