mccall52
Full Access Member
A while back I swapped my TECA relay with the horn relay, no change.
Fluid chnage in E4OD throws a code!
- Thread starter tbrumm
- Start date
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Have you set up an led in the cab to tell you when the TECA is calling for lockup? That is easy to do and the light should go out whenever the computer is telling the solenoid to lock the TC. I can check and see if the TECA in my truck has the F4 prefix - where do I look for that?
tbrumm
Full Access Member
I installed the rebuilt solenoid pack tonight and that went fine. I will clean the pan mounting surface and reusable gasket tomorrow and refill the trans. Stay tuned and keep your fingers crossed!
mccall52
Full Access Member
It may be quite hard to read, hopefully it can be done without having to pull it away from the firewall.
There should be a label by the visible portion under the electrical connector on the inboard side. Yours will most likely either start with F2, or F4 if you have the updated module.
There should be a label by the visible portion under the electrical connector on the inboard side. Yours will most likely either start with F2, or F4 if you have the updated module.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Well, the rebuilt solenoid pack is in and the TC still will not lock! I am about ready to push this thing over a cliff. I am going to pull the trans harness out again and check continuity on it again. Aftter that, I am fresh out of ideas. I am beginning to think that the TC is the culprit and the whole thing is going to have to come apart again. And if that doesn't fix the problem, the truck is going "down the road".
mccall52
Full Access Member
I know the feeling, I'm considering some pretty extreme stuff, just short of getting rid of it.
I won a 'best offer' on a TECA, an F4TF-12B565-FA. It's correct for a turbo IDI, mine's NA, what could possibly go wrong?
Going to try it out, last ditch effort before I hard core consider replacing the front pump. Again, I'll let you know how it goes.
If yours were my truck, I'd definitely be checking the part number on TECA.
I won a 'best offer' on a TECA, an F4TF-12B565-FA. It's correct for a turbo IDI, mine's NA, what could possibly go wrong?
Going to try it out, last ditch effort before I hard core consider replacing the front pump. Again, I'll let you know how it goes.If yours were my truck, I'd definitely be checking the part number on TECA.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
I thought surely I had finally skinned the cat and it was the solenoid pack that was the root of all evil. I am thinking there can only be two things now that are keeping the TC from locking: 1.) the TC I bought is junk ( I am going to call the trans guy and see if it really and truly did lock up for him) or 2.) the trans guy screwed up the pump mods. The more likely culprit is the used TC I purchased (yeah - I knew I was taking a risk with it but sometimes risks pay off and sometimes they don't.) I guess I am going to have to take the truck back to the trans guy, but my fear is that he will put in a new convertor and it will still not lock.
Ya wanta try this?
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?43777-E4OD-Torque-Converter-Lock-Up-Mods
E4OD torque converter manual control (off-lock).pdf
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?43777-E4OD-Torque-Converter-Lock-Up-Mods
E4OD torque converter manual control (off-lock).pdf
I've got a used TC out of F450 it's good, paid $50 for it, you can have it for the shipping cost. PM me if you want.
If you have a pressure gauge, install it in the gauge port on the tranny, Gauge port is on the drivers side just ahead of the shift lever. You should get about 180 to 250 PSI at 2000 RPM. Just jack up one rear wheel and put it in gear. That checks the pump pressure output. Be sure and block the wheels if you do that, or use a hose to the outside.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Thanks for your your responses, OldBull. I also appreciate the offer on the TC. Unlike another certain individual that you generously helped with your time and your parts, I pay my debts so you wouldn't have to worry about me not paying for the TC. But, I would probably just buy a new convertor now if it comes down to that. The guy I bought the TC from that was just installed in my truck swears it was working flawlessly in his truck. I think your idea of checking the pressure is my next thing to do. Any suggestions on gauge type/brand/where to purchase? What is the size of the pressure port fitting on the side of the trans? So, if the pressure is low, does that indicate a problem with the pump mods I had the trans guy do? So, here is my dilemma: The trans work I had done has 90 day "workmanship" warranty. But, I had the guy install a used convertor (triple disk billet TC with 15k that the guy swears was working fine) and reuse my original solenoid pack. I have now replaced the solenoid pack. The trans guy is probably going to say the next step is to install a new convertor regardless of whether or not the pump mods are the problem becuase that is the likely problem. So he puts in a new TC and the problem is still there and then what. Ugh! He did tell me the pump was in great shape when he went through the trans.
If only 15K on the TC, I would think it's good, if it rattles, it's *****. Gauge port is 1/4" NPT, if not you can always bushing up. Gauge should be 500 PSI, and glycerine filled for smooth sight, no needle bouncing.
Trans guy did a pump Mod? What Mods did he do?
Why ndid you change the TC in the first place?
Let me or trackspeeder know what the pressure is at idle and hi speed. Around 50 PSI at idle.
Trans guy did a pump Mod? What Mods did he do?
Why ndid you change the TC in the first place?
Let me or trackspeeder know what the pressure is at idle and hi speed. Around 50 PSI at idle.
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tbrumm
Full Access Member
The trans guy did the Transgo pump mods with the Tugger kit I had him install. I had the TC changed because of the infamous Code 62.
mccall52
Full Access Member
Missed a post earlier. I did the LED thing a while back, before I had my transmission out. Seemed like it was doing what it was supposed to. Went out when truck shifted into 3rd, would come on when off the throttle, off again when back on the throttle at speed.
FWIW, I have around 2500 miles on my reman convertor. The fluid still looked nice when I took down my pan a couple days ago, figured if convertor was slipping it would have burnt the fluid. But the way my commute goes, the convertor wouldn't be locked a lot of the time anyway.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
I decided to wire in the led again to indicate when the computer is signaling for TC lockup. As I was disconnecting the harness from the solenoid pack, I managed to break the locking tab off the copnnector that I just wired in not a week ago.
Those things are a poor design and with the exhaust right there are damn near impossible to get any leverage on while pulling. So, I ordered out another pigtail. I have to have a colonoscopy this coming Friday ( yeah-I turned 50 last summer), so this truck is apparently getting me prepped for that - I already feel like I have had one.
I reread the Transgo Lockup Complaints sheet on the E4OD (Page 23) and that talks about tee-ing in a gauge into the cooler line. If the gauage flicks/dips when led goes out it means the TC is culprit. If the gauge does not flick/dip when the led goes out, that means either the TCC solenoid is bad (but I just installed a rebuilt solnoid pack OR the lockup valve is stuck or has the wrong spring in it. So my question is: will a regular mechanical oil pressure gauge work for this? I have no idea how much pressure there is the cooler line, but most OP gauges read form 0-100 lbs so I would think that would be more than adequate. Anyone know what the cooler line pressure generally is? I will try and find a 0-500 psi glycerin fiilled pressure gauage as suggested by Oldbull and get line pressure checked as well.
Needless to say, I will be extremely PO'd if I find that the TC is good and the trans guy mucked up the pump mods and put in the wrong spring. The Transgo sheet also mentions "check for correct stator". What is the stator? That isn't another name for the center support is it? I just ask becuase the trans guy replaced the center support in my trans. I will give him a call tomorrow and find out if TC actually locked up for him when he test drove it after the work, or if he drove it 5 miles and called it good.
Those things are a poor design and with the exhaust right there are damn near impossible to get any leverage on while pulling. So, I ordered out another pigtail. I have to have a colonoscopy this coming Friday ( yeah-I turned 50 last summer), so this truck is apparently getting me prepped for that - I already feel like I have had one. I reread the Transgo Lockup Complaints sheet on the E4OD (Page 23) and that talks about tee-ing in a gauge into the cooler line. If the gauage flicks/dips when led goes out it means the TC is culprit. If the gauge does not flick/dip when the led goes out, that means either the TCC solenoid is bad (but I just installed a rebuilt solnoid pack OR the lockup valve is stuck or has the wrong spring in it. So my question is: will a regular mechanical oil pressure gauge work for this? I have no idea how much pressure there is the cooler line, but most OP gauges read form 0-100 lbs so I would think that would be more than adequate. Anyone know what the cooler line pressure generally is? I will try and find a 0-500 psi glycerin fiilled pressure gauage as suggested by Oldbull and get line pressure checked as well.
Needless to say, I will be extremely PO'd if I find that the TC is good and the trans guy mucked up the pump mods and put in the wrong spring. The Transgo sheet also mentions "check for correct stator". What is the stator? That isn't another name for the center support is it? I just ask becuase the trans guy replaced the center support in my trans. I will give him a call tomorrow and find out if TC actually locked up for him when he test drove it after the work, or if he drove it 5 miles and called it good.
