Fluid chnage in E4OD throws a code!

tbrumm

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Spun4Fun;844339also there could be a play in the center shaft or something like that known for these 4EOD . He stated that an after market shift kit is good for these transmissions as well you might want to look into that [/QUOTE said:
A new center support and Transgo Tugger shift kit is being installed as we speak.
 

Spun4Fun

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Do you mind if i ask how much is the total coast for parts in case i head that direction ( I hope not ) :D
 

tbrumm

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well, I don't know the total yet because the work isn't done yet. I provided the TC, the fluid, the shift kit and some other misc. parts. The trans guy told me that to remove the trans, tear it down and go though it looking for bad parts, replacing seals, etc. and then reinstall with my TC would be "around" $1000 to 1200 depending on what he found was bad. The shift kit install/pump mods were extra and he said would be "around" $300. In the end, I should have a trans that will easily go another 100k (or maybe more) but without the full rebuild cost. This will not be a "bulletproof" E4OD though, but should still work fine with the lower horsepower IDI and I don't tow heavy very often either.
 

Spun4Fun

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well, I don't know the total yet because the work isn't done yet. I provided the TC, the fluid, the shift kit and some other misc. parts. The trans guy told me that to remove the trans, tear it down and go though it looking for bad parts, replacing seals, etc. and then reinstall with my TC would be "around" $1000 to 1200 depending on what he found was bad. The shift kit install/pump mods were extra and he said would be "around" $300. In the end, I should have a trans that will easily go another 100k (or maybe more) but without the full rebuild cost. This will not be a "bulletproof" E4OD though, but should still work fine with the lower horsepower IDI and I don't tow heavy very often either.


Thanks for the great info.

Do you know if you have the F5 pump or the early on one.
 

Spun4Fun

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As it turned out the mechanic shop did not do what i have asked them which is to take the pump/ Or transmission to the local shop to get it serviced with new busing. They choose to only do the seal and cut corners. therefore they going to take that Tranny down for the 2nd time at their expense so i requested to have them handed to me as i will take it to my preferred transmission shop.

i will put the exact same stuff you have on the list and depends on how the TC neck looks or feel . Best thing is i will be watching and take notes of the process when it takes place/ crash course .;Sweet
 
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tbrumm

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Update: The truck is finally done! I couldn't get it picked up tonight due to other commitments, but I am pickin' her up tomorrow night! The trans guy even impressed himself and said "it shifts awesome!" He is certainly happy with it. He will probably be happier when I write him out the check. A little over $1800 when all is said and done, but he did go all the way through the trans and replaced the center support, forward drum, seals and some clutches and steels in addition to the parts I provided. Cost more than I figured it would cost but it always does. I certainly understand why a full rebuild is so expensive. Thanks very much to all who helped and contributed to this thread, especially Trackspeeder and FORDF250HDXLT - I appreciate it! I will update again after I get to drive it. I am looking forward to finding out if my E4OD is now an E5OD when that triple disk TC locks up.
 

Spun4Fun

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tbrumm ..Congrat on the progress . Let us know how it will drive as i will be doing the same thing. I know they drive like dog's in the Low RPM . Please let us hear it.
 
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tbrumm

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Well, I picked the truck up last night and drove it home. It shifts pretty nice, but could be a bit firmer. The shifts are crisp, just not as firm as I expected. I had the trans guy drill the calibration plate for the 6 cylinder hole sizes, so I may need to open the holes up. Now for the bad part - I didn't get 5 miles away from the shop and the OD light started to flash ***:mad: The truck was still shifting fine and did not go into limp mode so I didn't know what was up:dunno When I got home, I pulled the code and it was my old friend CODE 62:flipa:flipa:flipa I cleared the code and I am going to drive it over the weekend and "ring it out" and see what happens. The solenoid pack was re-used, so maybe there is still an intermittent problem there. Stay tuned as the saga continues...........
 

mccall52

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Sorry to hear all the planning didn't yield the desired results, I'm going through the same thing myself.

Well, that's one common denominator between us, we re-used our solenoid packs. Mine is on the way, I plan to have it installed no later than next Thursday. If I get it in sooner I'll let you know how it goes.
 

tbrumm

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Sorry to hear all the planning didn't yield the desired results, I'm going through the same thing myself.

Well, that's one common denominator between us, we re-used our solenoid packs. Mine is on the way, I plan to have it installed no later than next Thursday. If I get it in sooner I'll let you know how it goes.

Where did you purchase your pack and how much if you don't mind me asking? Is it a rebuilt or new? I hope that resolves the problem you are having with your trans. My trans guy asked me if I wanted to replace the solenoid pack and I said "no, it seems to working fine" so he reused it. I am still not convinced that the solenoid pack is the problem either. At any rate, the trans work was still needed as the center support was deteriorating and would have eventually failed and caused collateral damage. Had I not had the Code 62 issue, I would have blissfully ignorant of what was happening inside the trans.
 

Spun4Fun

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Sorry to hear that mate . I did read your post and if i recall it you already Tested your solenoid pack output

Check this interesting article as it might not be related to a solenoid Pack at all

http://www.txchange.com/e4od.htm
 

trackspeeder

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Well, I picked the truck up last night and drove it home. It shifts pretty nice, but could be a bit firmer. The shifts are crisp, just not as firm as I expected. I had the trans guy drill the calibration plate for the 6 cylinder hole sizes, so I may need to open the holes up. Now for the bad part - I didn't get 5 miles away from the shop and the OD light started to flash ***:mad: The truck was still shifting fine and did not go into limp mode so I didn't know what was up:dunno When I got home, I pulled the code and it was my old friend CODE 62:flipa:flipa:flipa I cleared the code and I am going to drive it over the weekend and "ring it out" and see what happens. The solenoid pack was re-used, so maybe there is still an intermittent problem there. Stay tuned as the saga continues...........

Blasted code 62.. Thats all the TCM can figure out. Because it is shifting fine it not in limp mode. So there is a gremlin in the system someplace. Could be the converter clutch solenoid switching to slow. You don't have a 94 code so it is still working. Might be worth changing the pack.

s for the calibration plate. You did it right by drilling the holes small. Drive it, then drill the required holes bigger. Another little trick is to keep the hole on the small side. Change out the accumulator valve with a larger valve. This will speed up and make the shifts firmer.:D

www.transmissionpartsusa.com They have new and rebuilt packs at a decent price.
 

OLDBULL8

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Never use dielectric grease on the contacts, it's an insulator. A very thin coat can be used, but not gobs of it. best not to use it at all, only around the connector on the outside to keep dirt and water out.
 
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