D50 TTB out of 88 f250 in 89 f350 2wd

[BR3]

Did a lot of looking on this one. For a potential project once, and I would definitely say go coil sprung super duty 60. There's so much less work involved for so much gain. And I don't know what you consider expensive, but less than a month ago I had a dually Dana 60 from an 07 DELIVERED to my shop for less than $350. You'd spend that in consumables in what your going to do with all the rivet grinding/air hammering and drilling and cutting.

If you really don't want to hear that at all, from what I gathered, you'll be in for

-complete removal of all 2wd bracketry (4 brackets with as many rivets a piece) both coil buckets, and doing the same to the 4wd frame(6 brackets total) Drilling for hours. I mean HOURS. Brake lines are a little different, shocks are different, pitman arm is slightly different depending on the trucks. dragging the ttbs in and out (opposed to rolling around a 60, very much so easier) and enough hardware to bolt the rest of the truck together....

 

[franklin2]

Did a lot of looking on this one. For a potential project once, and I would definitely say go coil sprung super duty 60. There's so much less work involved for so much gain. And I don't know what you consider expensive, but less than a month ago I had a dually Dana 60 from an 07 DELIVERED to my shop for less than $350. You'd spend that in consumables in what your going to do with all the rivet grinding/air hammering and drilling and cutting.

If you really don't want to hear that at all, from what I gathered, you'll be in for

-complete removal of all 2wd bracketry (4 brackets with as many rivets a piece) both coil buckets, and doing the same to the 4wd frame(6 brackets total) Drilling for hours. I mean HOURS. Brake lines are a little different, shocks are different, pitman arm is slightly different depending on the trucks. dragging the ttbs in and out (opposed to rolling around a 60, very much so easier) and enough hardware to bolt the rest of the truck together....

Can you put the superduty/coil swap in a little paragraph like the above? I am curious how complicated it is. I know you have to run later wheels, that should not be a problem for most people I would think. The coil buckets line up? And I am assuming you have to drill and mount a radius arm? I would think the caster would be critical when you mounted the radius arm bracket.

 

[Sieg Contracting]

Did a lot of looking on this one. For a potential project once, and I would definitely say go coil sprung super duty 60. There's so much less work involved for so much gain. And I don't know what you consider expensive, but less than a month ago I had a dually Dana 60 from an 07 DELIVERED to my shop for less than $350. You'd spend that in consumables in what your going to do with all the rivet grinding/air hammering and drilling and cutting.

If you really don't want to hear that at all, from what I gathered, you'll be in for

-complete removal of all 2wd bracketry (4 brackets with as many rivets a piece) both coil buckets, and doing the same to the 4wd frame(6 brackets total) Drilling for hours. I mean HOURS. Brake lines are a little different, shocks are different, pitman arm is slightly different depending on the trucks. dragging the ttbs in and out (opposed to rolling around a 60, very much so easier) and enough hardware to bolt the rest of the truck together....

Im talking 800 to a thousand for a obs d60, ive never really considered going coil sprung, i have considered a 99 to 04 superduty leaf sprung d60

 

[BR3]

Castor handles itself essentially, as well as coil bucket placement. Bare minimum swap would consist of having the pitman arm reamed, getting rid of the old radius arms and brackets, butting the 05+ brackets (attached to the arms/axles) up to the body mount bracket and bolting it up (you do admittedly have a few holes to drill here. Then the 05+ coil buckets locate themselves on the frame via the springs. Brake lines are reused by pulling the banjo bolt out and bolting to the new calipers. You'll have to Fab or buy a track bar bracket, but that's essentially it. Your already having to do a driveshaft for a 2wd conversion anyway

The sky is the limit these days though. Several companies sell full bolt in kits in several flavors. I on the other hand am considering a conversion that utilizes the factory 2wd buckets with a cheap "leveling kit" and some f150 lift springs. The 2wd OBS coil spring has the same bottom footprint as the 05+ 4wd coils, just turned a little. Raise the axle perch an viola.

Rear axle is almost 100 percent bolt in. For me I needed a brake line adapter and a few other Nick nacks. I went dually Dana 80 though.

By way of rear axle/cost. If you can pick up an obs Dana 60 complete for $800, I don't think you could quite get out the door rear axle and all at that price lol.

 

[robert alston]

about bolting the twin traction beams in a two wheel drive you will have to get a pair of 1/2 ton and 3/4 beams and graft the knuckles from the 1 ton beams onto the 1/2 beams thats what I did solo motorsports can do the grafting
you will have to use the two wheel drive raidos arms and the lower sping mount hardware if you get the beams from a bronco you will be able to have four shocks up front make sure they drill the shock mount bracket holes from the bracket they forgot to drill mine you will be able to use your stock sway bar just get the beams only from the 1/2 ton and complete 3/4 beam assembly

 

[robert alston]

for got mention if you do get the bronco beams get the lower shock brackets

 

[BR3]

But, that is Definitely not the "cheap" route lol. Solo's kits are designed for pre runner strength upgrades mostly, last I looked they were $2000 a kit entry level. So Unless you've got some heavy skills and tooling, or have extremely extremely good guessfab skills, youd loose a lot in tires haha