clutch push rod heim joint mod

asmith

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Thank you for all the replies. I know the basic steps for doing the procedure. i just have no way of cutting threads for the heim joint. also i figured you would probably want to make the rod somewhat adjustable to get the throw just right.

Kawamatt the bushing where the lever meets the rod in that picture looks a lot beefier than what is in mine. Is it plastic?

Lots of good ideas in this thread and if no one wants to make a little money i will look into doing it myself.

just out of curiosity can the bushings on the main cross bar that all of the pedals are attached to, be changed without removing the assembly from the truck?
 

riotwarrior

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just out of curiosity can the bushings on the main cross bar that all of the pedals are attached to, be changed without removing the assembly from the truck?

IN all likely hood nope you'ld be kicking yourself trying to do it. Take a look at my pedal thread and you can see how complex it all is.

First steering column has to come out, disconnect the two pushrods for brake and clutch, undo the clutch MC and the brake booster, and throttle cable and that's about it IIRC.

Hope that's of help and doesn't dissuade you from doing this figure a easy 3-4 hours total nice easy pace to do this.

I'm suspicious of the cross shaft bushings myself in your situation. As well as the pin for the pushrod.

Al
 

laserjock

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I drilled my stock rod out to accept a bronze bushing and drilled the pedal rod for a carter key.
 

79jasper

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I think mine is wallered out. Had to safety wire the rod on. Started popping off.

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79jasper

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Yeah, I saw that too. But would also need a new master rod.
And I kinda look at it like, why replace it with something prone to fail.
The one I linked has a set screw. I guess the normal version you thread the rod and the heim screws on.
That's why I was asking. Someone here used to make them.

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madpogue

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Adjustable pushrod - http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?mfr=ATP&partnum=fx231 . Add a short piece of 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass or bronze (brass is lower friction) tubing to replace the cr@tastic plastic bushing, and a 7/16" drill stop collar to hold the pin in place in the pushrod. Cheaper and requires no cutting of the pushrod. New pushrod is only required if existing pushrod is wallered / egged.
 

79jasper

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I'm not too worried about the clutch switch. I have it bypassed anyways.
Current pushrod and pin are both wallered. When I put the new pedals in, the rod was a tight fit and definitely wasn't going to go on with the bushing. Basically I knew this day was coming. Lol
Are you saying the collar is too short?

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laserjock

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That's cheap. Have to remember that. If it was me, I'd get it in and adjusted and throw a tack weld on it and be done with it. No concern about the set screws then. I think the problem with using the threaded heim joint is that the stock rod is not big enough in diameter for 3/8" threads. Maybe I'm wrong about that though. I'd have to look at one again. Still have to drill, grind or other wise knock out the pin on the pedal side regardless because the pin is like 7/16" (or 5/16" cant remember if its slightly bigger or smaller but its and oddball size for a heim joint) and all the heims are 3/8".
 

79jasper

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No welder. Lol
Its the aluminum on the end that gets threaded I believe.
Supposed I be a video under the item description. But it leads to bill Hewitt. Oh god....
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riotwarrior

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Tech 101 ....did a pedal arm replacement in cab..that lil lever is a ****** but can be done in vehicle...it is a replacement part btw.
 

riotwarrior

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