clutch push rod heim joint mod

asmith

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Hey guys. I have a small request. would someone be willing to make a clutch push rod for me with the heim joint on the end? i have no way of making one and my clutch is getting worse by the day. i would be willing to pay a reasonable price. i had talked to a member on here about it and he was going to do it, as well as make the tool to remove the rod, but he has since disapeared.:dunno i have no hard feelings, money never exchanged hands, but he has not been on for months and i cant wait much longer it is getting harder to start because i cant push the clutch in far enough to trip the switch. anyway if someone has the skill and would like to make a little money please PM me. it would be very much appreciated.

also where would one get the tool to remove the rod? i have tried several searches and nothing helpful is coming up. Thanks again.
 

typ4

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the hiem mod bypasses the switch, no room for it in there.
 

riotwarrior

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Hey guys. I have a small request. would someone be willing to make a clutch push rod for me with the heim joint on the end? i have no way of making one and my clutch is getting worse by the day. i would be willing to pay a reasonable price. i had talked to a member on here about it and he was going to do it, as well as make the tool to remove the rod, but he has since disapeared.:dunno i have no hard feelings, money never exchanged hands, but he has not been on for months and i cant wait much longer it is getting harder to start because i cant push the clutch in far enough to trip the switch. anyway if someone has the skill and would like to make a little money please PM me. it would be very much appreciated.

also where would one get the tool to remove the rod? i have tried several searches and nothing helpful is coming up. Thanks again.

Sounds to me that you need to replace the little arm itself that has the pin for the pushrod, or the entire cross shaft needs rebushed in the pedal assembly or both. and you can get a new clutch MC pushrod from Ford and maybe Napa,

Not sure if this helps you but look at this it's similar for you 94 too BTW

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...101-Clutch-ARM-replacement&highlight=TECH+101

As for a special tool I took some hard plastic tubing and slit it to just go over the clutch MC pushrod and slid it down into the MC and withdrew my pushrod. There are fingers that need to be spread to allow the MC to withdraw. This was what I did however there may indeed be a tool I don't know.

You can bypass that switch by using a small piece of wire and jumping it so you don't need it to start! However one Caveat

YOUR TRUCK WILL START IN GEAR! if you do that jumper wire mod.

Al
 

asmith

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Sounds to me that you need to replace the little arm itself that has the pin for the pushrod, or the entire cross shaft needs rebushed in the pedal assembly or both. and you can get a new clutch MC pushrod from Ford and maybe Napa,

Not sure if this helps you but look at this it's similar for you 94 too BTW

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...101-Clutch-ARM-replacement&highlight=TECH+101

As for a special tool I took some hard plastic tubing and slit it to just go over the clutch MC pushrod and slid it down into the MC and withdrew my pushrod. There are fingers that need to be spread to allow the MC to withdraw. This was what I did however there may indeed be a tool I don't know.

You can bypass that switch by using a small piece of wire and jumping it so you don't need it to start! However one Caveat

YOUR TRUCK WILL START IN GEAR! if you do that jumper wire mod.

Al

looking at it both the cross shaft and pin look pretty good. i was a little surprised because i thought they would be worn too. the culprit is the push rod. it is so egged out and worn that i can depress the clutch pedal between almost an inch before the pin makes contact. i will try to get a picture later. even if i bypass the switch i still would like to get that problem fixed. i would like to do the heim joint so i dont have to worry about it ever again. also reading on here, the people who have done it love the feel of the clutch.

good to know about the tubing i will try that.
 

jrad235

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I had to use a piece of brass on mine to remove the rod, but if the plastic is stiff enough, no problems. NOTE: The pickup tube from a spray bottle is NOT stiff enough. Also, I had to spend an hour or so at the junkyard taking other trucks apart to get the rod that I made mine from since I didn't want to take mine apart ahead of time.
 

G. Mann

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Go to your local NAPA dealer, They list and stock a replacement clutch banjo fitting with clutch rod. You might have to push on them a little to get them to look it up, but it's worth the effort. Should be in their book /computer right along with the clutch master cylinder they list.

From my experience, if the banjo is egged out the shaft it rides on is worn badly. You just can't see it because the location is really hard to see. Try looking at it at night with a good LED flashlight under the dash and the seat pushed all the way back so you can get in and under the dash with your head.

ACE Hardware sells Heim joints with 3/8th center hole size. The thread length is about right, but the total length seems a bit short, so you would likely need to make a longer push rod. I believe if you used a bit of inventive talent and used a grade 12 bolt, you could cut the head off and use the bolt shaft to make a new push rod the right length.

Anyone have any thoughts on that?


Good luck.
 

TWeatherford

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My new 97 is not exactly an example of how to do things right, but the clutch works fine. Here is what it looks like

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I will likely replace it with the OEM setup or maybe a heim joint if it ever gives me trouble, but if it isn't broke I'm not fixing it. Could work for you in a pinch.
 

jaluhn83

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It's a bit of work, but the best way to fix the worn pin problem is to pull the whole thing apart, grind the weld, remove the stock pin and install a 3/8 grade 5 or 8 bolt. Weld the head to the back of the arm and cut it down so you have ~1/2" sticking out. Lowes stocks a oil impregnated bronze 3/8" id x 1/2" shoulder bushing - the OD is a pretty nice fit in the pushrod eye. Then just cut the width to fit, and add a washer and cotter pin on the outboard end of the pin.

Never have to worry about it again.

The key it is that you have to replace the pin - once the stock one gets that nasty taper wear it's going to just eat bushings.
 

G. Mann

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Yep, what Jaluhn said.. The new arm with pin welded in place is a Ford Dealer item only, cost is about $40. for a 94, should be an in stock item.. for my 87, I had to build one just like Jaluhn described. Only thing is. I used a machinery pin already cross drilled for a spring clip so it works just like standard ford, only with a nice bronze bushing instead of cheap **** nylon that will fail in a year..
 

S-west

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the hiem mod bypasses the switch, no room for it in there.

Is the switch different on the newer trucks? I never had to bypass anything when I did the Hiem joint mod on my 86.
 

G. Mann

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Word to the wise, based on experience. Double check part number shown in the listing with Ford Dealer parts list. There was a change made in this part through the model years.

I had one hell of a time finding one to fit a 1987. Part number sold said it would fit and received part was totally different in offset, no way it would fit.
 

kawamatt

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E7TZ-7A554-A is correct for 92-97 F-series pickups and the most current P/N that you will find for the clutch actuation lever. See picture below for exactly what I received when I ordered from the above amazon link.
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If you are feeling froggy while working there, I would suggest investigating the pedal bracket bushings (white things in above photo) for wear. You can buy a rebuild kit for those from Ford as well. F3TZ-2C342-A

If you really don't want to mess with any of the rebuilding game, you can still buy the whole clutch/brake pedal bracket for 92-97 F-series new from Ford. F3TZ-2455-A

It comes as pictured below including a brand new actuation rod that hasn't been pressed onto the splines yet so you can set it for proper pushrod actuation.
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Garbage_Mechan

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In my experience, you cut the pushrod off, thread it and install 3/8 heim joint. Drive the pin on the lever out (the one that everyone is describing as the #1 wear point) and replace it with a 3/8 bolt and locknut. Be sure to use some 3/8 washers to restore the alainment of the pushrod. This is on the slant nose, brick nose and OBS trucks. I have working clutch start switches on all of them too, using "micro" industrial switches.
 
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