Changing my injector pump

pedro_8149

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Hey so i have a injector pump on the way, but just a quick question, what should i buy new o-rings, gaskets, etc. ? all my return lines were done about a year ago so i dont need to worry about them but should i put new supply oring in aka the olive? and change fuel filters as well? also where can i get the olives from? ford and part numbers? any suggestions would greatly help in making my swap go easier. thanks
 

dgr

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An injection pump install kit should come with new o-ring for IP, new bolts and new olives and another o-ring for something else... If you want to get individual olives, they are called parker vibra-lok 5/16" and 3/8" Mcmaster has them. I would order from Russ if he isn't too busy. Failing that, local store should be able to get you the kit for little money.

edit: do I recall that mcmaster doesn't ship to you guys?
 

tbrumm

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"If you want to get individual olives, they are called parker vibra-lok 5/16" and 3/8" Mcmaster has them."

I don't see where these are listed on the McMaster-Carr site. Got a link on the site to them? Thanks!
 

riotwarrior

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Pedro,

contact typ4 Russ, and just see what he has to say, you may as well get a return line kit too would be handy in case of failure down the road for the cost of kit from Russ. It is a good thing cause they are not that expensive and he can ship the Olives and return line kit together of course.

Where by chance did you get a pump? I know A Star had a turbo pump, did you get it from them?

Remember too...DO NOT PULL IP GEAR COVER....

See video here just scroll down and watch as Gary shows you how. I don't recall which one but there are a few worth watching.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?45766-Engine-How-To-Video/page3

Hope this helps

Al

Oh and if you can get down this way, I've got a Kent Moore J33300 timing meter for pulse timing!
 

icanfixall

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The olives or viba locks are found in the brass nuts on each end of the supply line from the injection pump to the filter. Also the line from the lift pump to filter has a 3/8 olive in the one end of that where it joins the filter. These harden over time and they fail letting air enter the fuel system causing lots of cranking to start the engine. These can leak and not show a wet area. They are sucking in air and that creates a bubble in the fuel supply line. Then lots of cranking to purge it out. As posted, never remove the injection pump and the gear cover as one piece. That will have the injection pump gear still attached to the pump and you loose the gear timing. Its nearly impossible to get the gear timing correct unless you remove the complete front of the engine... Just three tiny bolts with a 5/16 hex head are what you need to remove to pull the pump from the gear. These are found behind the front cover on the gear cover the pump mounts to. You also have three 9/16 heax nuts to remove the pump from the other side of that cover. They can be tuff to get too but that not a bad job. Timing is not going to be an issue and no matter what anyone on utube tell you about the timing marks... None of them are going to time the engine properly. Thats because every pump thats been overhaulked has a differant timing arrangement in it. Thats just how they are built. The marks you see are only a best guess for a starting point. The only way those marks do you any good is if your removing the pump and putting it back on the same engine. Then I suggest you place a center punch mark in the pump to gear cover joint. Then you can match up the two seperate half circle marks and your timing will remain the same after the pump has been removed and put back on the same truck engine...
 

pedro_8149

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fastest route for me will be getting a ip instal kit from either napa or my ford stealership here as im doin the pump on sat and they can get parts overnight need be anybody know part nubmers of the main things ill need from either ford or napa? and i do keep an extra set of return lines in my dry box as a emergency kinda deal.
 

dgr

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"If you want to get individual olives, they are called parker vibra-lok 5/16" and 3/8" Mcmaster has them."

I don't see where these are listed on the McMaster-Carr site. Got a link on the site to them? Thanks!

5/16" Vibra-Loc - McMaster-Carr Item 50385K83 3/8" Vibra-Loc - McMaster-Carr Item 50385K84
 

Agnem

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I also stock olives and also an upgraded braided stainless fuel line if you want to ditch the olives all together.
 
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