Alrighty boys - can't shift into gear

79jasper

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How did the clutch lines stay in if you didn't put the pins back in? Lol
Glad you're getting it buttoned up though.

I told you the dremels come in handy for lots of uses. Lol
 

warhog

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cuz i'm awesome.


kidding. I bled the slave following your instructions, then popped it into place...then bled the master with the line at the slave disconnected. when i gave up thinking i was supposed to get a steady flow, i just popped the line into the slave and left it at that. i didn't touch the clutch pedal or anything. When yall told me it was fine, i went out the next day, put the pin in and bled it with the line connected. It's all set to drive minus the box. I used it yesterday to move some stuff around the property. I need to order some misc things like the bushing for the clutch pushrod, and a washer (i dont have one at all!) for the shifter, along with a new pin and cap. Hopefully that stops the leak at that spot. Not driving it on the road until the box is installed. It's WAY too sketchy now. I think adding all these newer parts (new tires, new shaft) just made it worse since I didn't fix the MAIN problem. So she's just hanging in the yard for now.
 

riotwarrior

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Thanks for the update...

That busing for clutch shaft is available at NAPA or Ford or in the HELP section of autoparts stores, it comes with auto trans shifter bushings if you get the NAPA kit or the HELP section kit...both are the same..just different packaging LOL

Not sure what your talking about on shifter...

Glad your waiting to get that new box in, I'm sure you'll be tickety boo when you do!

Check out my cheatin Tech 101 on clutch arm replacement...LOL I was able to do with pedal assembly installed in the truck..no small feat as you would likely know now...

Anyway, thanks for the updates. glad it's all working out so well..

Al
 

warhog

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When you pull off the shift boot, you should see a round cap that threads on. After unscewing it, there should be a washer, and a spring. Then a pin, that holds the shifter in place. I don't have a washer, and my pin is worn out. Guy over at Novak is making me nervous about the leak I have coming from there but i'm hoping with a new cap (mine is destroyed by PO) and a washer like I should have, magic will happen and the leak will be gone. Though i'm looking at around $60 for those tiny parts!


I'm going to get a Fenco box tomorrow, for now, it's best to spend $120 on a box to get me back out of a rental for a while instead of spending the quoted price for a redhead. I'd love to have the cat's meow, but I have to prioritize. I'm sure it'll feel great to me anyways after what I have gotten used to.

I already have a puller for the pitman arm, and read up on changing the box...What I am not sure on however, is how the high pressure line comes off. I haven't looked at it but does it screw on? I saw in a thread somewhere said if it's twisting off it's bad..?
 

riotwarrior

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Box swap is really simple let me go out tomorrow afternoon and get some pics of my bronco....same box...it's in the clear and easy to photograph for you...that is if you think it would help...

I'll post em up..

the fitting is supposed to freely spin on the tubing...and sometime rust and such causes them to become one...that is a suck dirt problem but one that can be ...ahem....dealt with carefully! so long as u have paitence...

If there is a wrecker near by...and u can go in pull parts....go try there stuff first to learn...rofl...no cost to u then... LOL just a smart *** tip for ya...

Al
 

79jasper

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The pin and washer you could get at a hardware store for cheaper.

You're saying it's slinging oil out the top of the transmission shift tower correct?
 

riotwarrior

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Pin is hardened steel IIRC...


To seal that ****** up...clean up tower really good....take a bike tube...clamp it down around the damn tower and on to shifter arm...good n tight...make sure your vent tube is not blocked too btw...Oh ya sometimes...shock boots work really nice too!

Then yer likely golden!;Sweet


Just sayin


Al
 

lilredtdi

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This has been a really good thread as i know at some point i will be doing this and do not have expiriencd with it. My steering wanders a bit and will need the slack taken out.

I am really happy for the OP as the poor guy was at wits end with that truck.
 

warhog

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what the heck size nut is on that pitman arm? I'm talking the arm to box nut. Thing is huge.
 

riotwarrior

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what the heck size nut is on that pitman arm? I'm talking the arm to box nut. Thing is huge.

IIR 1 1/2" and very very tight, upwards of 185 Lbs Ft torque....just saying...TIGHT! I'll see if I can find out for certain when I go take those pics of lines in few minutes....
 

warhog

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IIR 1 1/2" and very very tight, upwards of 185 Lbs Ft torque....just saying...TIGHT! I'll see if I can find out for certain when I go take those pics of lines in few minutes....

close! 34mm. And they weren't that tight. I swear that everything on this truck has to be a difficult. Can't find any possible way for my hands to fit in there to thread in the lines. I finally ended up ruining one of the lines so i'm done for the day. Not sure if i'll be able to do it myself, may have to cough up the money to tow it out of here, probably should have done that from the get go. Just looked a lot easier, but it totally wasn't worth the headheache. My only other option is removing the power steering pump. What kind of mess am I looking at if I do that?

edit: also, no one seriously sells the return line for our truck? This is disapointing.
 
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riotwarrior

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close! 34mm. And they weren't that tight. I swear that everything on this truck has to be a difficult. Can't find any possible way for my hands to fit in there to thread in the lines. I finally ended up ruining one of the lines so i'm done for the day. Not sure if i'll be able to do it myself, may have to cough up the money to tow it out of here, probably should have done that from the get go. Just looked a lot easier, but it totally wasn't worth the headheache. My only other option is removing the power steering pump. What kind of mess am I looking at if I do that?

edit: also, no one seriously sells the return line for our truck? This is disapointing.

Got my pics...

This line here I'm holding and my finger is pointing towards the fitting...closest to the splined steering input shaft is the RETURN line
You must be registered for see images attach


This line here that I have my thumb on and pinky pointing too on the box and pinky pointing to on the pump connection is the HI pressure line
You must be registered for see images attach


Pitman Arm to Sector shaft nut torque

170-230 LBS FT Direct from my Ford factory service manual

Don't get discouraged you can do this, in all likely hood you just need to loosen the mounting brackets for the power steering pump and set it off to the side. Then you can get that steering box off and not have to fight anything further...I myself...

I take that stupid plastic cover off and leave it off the steering shaft so I don't have to fight it for any reason. It's a trap for dirt and prevents routine inspection of steering parts.

...also, no one seriously sells the return line for our truck? This is disappointing.

All that is required is a FRESH piece of tubing and two hose clamps...just cut off the old one and replace with similar length is all....not a big deal...

Hope this helps you out.

JM2CW

Al
 
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warhog

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Do I have to make it as long as it was before? It must have been 8 ft wrapped back and fourth on the frame!

alright what size tubing do I need?
 
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riotwarrior

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Do I have to make it as long as it was before? It must have been 8 ft wrapped back and fourth on the frame! And what do I do for the threaded part?

Oh *****...you had issues with that portion...damn...OK that's a tough one...that's the return line/cooler so ya you kind of have to have the threaded section....any chance of one at a wrecker? I wasn't sure what happened...PICS are always good?

If it wasnt for all the freakin SNOW I could locate one of mine...rofl

You may be able to get a fitting that is correct and then add just a rubber line and use an aftermarket cooler. That's an option too...

Have you removed the HI PRESSURE line yet?

Now understand my photos show a slightly different set of HOSES as I have Hydro-Boost for braking on that Bronco. Regardless, the lines I showed you are correct sides meaning return/low pressure side and the HI PRESSURE side, you will have a physically different HI pressure LINE is all your return is exactly the same as the on in my picture.

I'm sure that one of the other members will chime in...

Al
 

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