86 Turbo IDI Build

[D_Fresh361]

Yup,

Banned (for good reason) actually.

Heath

Damn. Definitely making note of that..

 

[Waystro]

Yep it takes a lot to be banned over here. Being a ******* gets Ya a membership over at FTE.

 

[D_Fresh361]

Many years ago Mel who is one of this forums well known members had a solenoid fail on the Moose truck. So being the kind of guy he is he purchased a less costly solenoid thinking they looked the same so they must be the same.. Well they are not. It soon failed. so he then purchased the oem solenoid from ford. Then he opened up the failed cheaper one and the original factory one that failed... BIG DIFFERANCE in how they were made. The cheaper one was so weakly made it had no option but to fail with the amps going thru it. I too have felt many after market solenoids look the same and even purchased one to replace my fender mounted solenoid hoping to fix a starter issue. Lucky for me I saved the oem part... We do learn by our mistakes and hopefully was can share them here so others wont do the same.

Thanks for the feedback! I'm going to go ahead and order the Stancor (586-902) relay that 79Jasper and FordGuy100 recommended using with the manual GP set up today. I will more than likely wait a little bit after it arrives to install it just for the satisfaction of feeling like I got some kind of a return on the cheap relay from O'Reilly. I'll probably toss it back in the box and keep it on the parts shelf for "emergencies".

Shortly after 3:30pm I will have the video posted of the truck running at start up so you guys can give me your insight on what may be the issue with the exhaust noise and rough idle. I'm thinking it has something to do with the Injectors but I could be waaaay off. Just a guess. It's kind of a (womp womp womp womp) sound. Slightly higher idle. Very deep exhaust note when given gas. Sounds like its bogging down like the truck "cant breathe". Light haze of white smoke and truck shakes pretty rough and then it fades away. Just a brief description to give you guys an idea.

 

[D_Fresh361]

Yep it takes a lot to be banned over here. Being a ******* gets Ya a membership over at FTE.

Ha! A one way ticket! Cream of the crop huh?

 

[FordGuy100]

That relay makes the stock relays look like play toys. It should last many times longer than an OEM one.

 

[Waystro]

Ha! A one way ticket! Cream of the crop huh?

Like having your own ice cream shop.
Wait that's blue bell never mind

 

[Agnem]

So the difference in the contactor (relay) that makes a difference, is this... most if not all of the aftermarket el cheapo (advance... autozone... Oriely's) products are what I call the bar type contactor. When they make and break contact, they hit the same spot over and over again, which results in constant pitting and decreased life span. The GOOD more expensive ones (Motorcraft, International) are DISC type contactors. There is actually a disc instead of a bar, and it rotates randomly, offering a fresh contact surface to close the circuit. This results in less pitting and many more actuations in the life of the part. The other quality difference is that higher quality relays use silver for their contacts, instead of copper. As we all know, silver is a lot more expensive than copper, so... you get what you pay for.

 

[D_Fresh361]

Like having your own ice cream shop.
Wait that's blue bell never mind

 

[D_Fresh361]

So the difference in the contactor (relay) that makes a difference, is this... most if not all of the aftermarket el cheapo (advance... autozone... Oriely's) products are what I call the bar type contactor. When they make and break contact, they hit the same spot over and over again, which results in constant pitting and decreased life span. The GOOD more expensive ones (Motorcraft, International) are DISC type contactors. There is actually a disc instead of a bar, and it rotates randomly, offering a fresh contact surface to close the circuit. This results in less pitting and many more actuations in the life of the part. The other quality difference is that higher quality relays use silver for their contacts, instead of copper. As we all know, silver is a lot more expensive than copper, so... you get what you pay for.

Thanks Mel! Very helpful information!

 

[79jasper]

My factory gpr on the psd was the disc type. I don't think it was bad until I attempted removing the wires, which snapped the Lug off, kinda like above.

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[D_Fresh361]

https://youtu.be/XJWKBe87kZs


https://youtu.be/HEPhyvvU3Es

Here's the videos guys. My apologies for the late post. So much for "shortly after 3:30pm"right.

First video is the truck running after the first start up of the day. I started recording about 10 seconds after I started it.

Second video is after the truck has warmed up to operating temp and had been running at idle for a bit. Sorry for it being so dark. Hopefully someone can help me with a diagnosis of what in the heck is causing the truck to run like so?

 

[79jasper]

Unfortunately Al has a bit more experience in that section, but almost sounds like a exhaust chuff. Hard to tell though.
Almost sounds like a fuel delivery problem though. Have you changed the fuel filter?

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[IDIoit]

sounds like a dead hole.
are any of the injector lines leaking? when were the injectors last changed?

 

[D_Fresh361]

Unfortunately Al has a bit more experience in that section, but almost sounds like a exhaust chuff. Hard to tell though.
Almost sounds like a fuel delivery problem though. Have you changed the fuel filter?

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I did some searching here in the forums regarding the "exhaust chuff" you mentioned. Could it possibly be the valve guides or springs?
No idea when the fuel filter was replaced last being I bought the truck as-is and got pretty much no feedback on recent maintenance or any mechanical issues. My fault for not asking but knowing who I bought it from, they more than likely wouldn't have told me the truth anyway. When I get off work today I will stop by the parts store and pick one up and swap it out.

Also, pertaining to when the last time the injectors were changed is a good question. Lol I honestly wouldn't be surpised if they are still the factory injectors.. It wouldn't surprise me in the slightest actually. As for the leaking of the injector lines. I will have to take a much closer look today with the truck running when I stop by the shop. I will check back with my findings. Thanks again guys!

 

[TahoeTom]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...iming-Fuel-Issue-shaking-HELP&highlight=chuff
Look at post #5 in this thread. May be a way to start diagnosis. It sure sounds good in the first video with the cold advance and fast idle activated. Second video after warm up not so good.