86 Turbo IDI Build

[riotwarrior]

4 sec max...learn some patience......might be 15 seconds......best bet get a 7.3 system complete...with new Beru ZD9 plugs...they are Motorcraft or IH products and dont settle for anything else...then it is simple put key in turn light out crank...voila

 

[D_Fresh361]

Blue arrow is your Starter Relay. I could grab a pic in the morning of where everything goes.

Thanks Waystro! Any help is much appreciated. I wont be able to work on the truck until after 3:30pm today.

 

[D_Fresh361]

Jump a hot wire to the terminal your push button goes to (red). You should hear the relay click, and the large terminal with wires going to glow plugs should get 12v. I think the small black wire on that side goes to the wait to start lamp. The wire going to the terminal behind the radiator hose at thermostat (pink?) is the high idle/cold advance switch wire I think. There should be two wires on the top of the IP. The rear wire is from that switch. I'll look at mine and check back.
Edit: The pink wire may have gone to the in line fuel heater. The 6.9 had a heater element on the fuel line from the fuel pump to the filter head. I don't know if they ever worked or were necessary. If pink goes to heater, then the yellow wire is the one to the cold advance switch. The fuel heater wire has a plug connection and the cold advance wire has a two slot plug into the switch.
You are going to have to hold the push button 10 or more seconds to get enough heat to cold start. You may have to repeat a second time, at least I do.

Thanks for the help Tom. I'm going to re trace the wires today after 3:30 pm and check back with what I'm able to come up with. Also going to be taking some better pictures to give a better sight of the mess that I'm dealing with here.

 

[88 Ford]

Justin from R&D is over at FTE. You can see some of his builds over there as well.

 

[D_Fresh361]

Can someone please tell me what the "click" noise I'm hearing is when I touch the factory purple wire on to the 12V + terminal on the Glow Plug Relay? It also makes a faint "click" again when I remove the purple wire. It sounds like it's coming from somewhere over the IP? In that remote area at least. Someone please help! I'm working on the truck at this very moment.

Also, when I connect a wire from 12 volt + to the terminal on the GPR that the factory purple wire goes to. I get nothing again. Does that mean my GPR is bad?

 

[Waystro]

May be a bad GlowPlug controller back of head
or there lay on fender is bad. Can't remember.

 

[D_Fresh361]

I'm trying to avoid the GP controller all together with the route I'm going. Attempting to get a manual push button configuration working and I'm having you know what.

Does anyone know the part number for the correct replacement relay for the GPR? I've got an Autozone, O'Reilly's, NAPA, Advanced etc.. around me right now. Or is it a stealership item??

 

[79jasper]

If you're going with a manual pushbutton setup, non of the above.
Get a stancor, white-rodgers, etc.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[TahoeTom]

Just checked online, O'Reilly has one for $20 and Napa closer to $30. I have heard the genuine Motorcraft (Ford Dealer) are the best quality, but that may no longer be the case. I grab them when I see them in the junkyard if they are OEM. It is still a crap shoot going used. If you get no click when energizing the correct terminal it may be toast. The top of your IP has two electrical connectors. The front one is the fuel solenoid and should click when connected to 12v. The rear one is the cold advance, and only gets power (from the switch behind the thermostat) when the coolant is below 125 or so.

 

[D_Fresh361]

Just checked online, O'Reilly has one for $20 and Napa closer to $30. I have heard the genuine Motorcraft (Ford Dealer) are the best quality, but that may no longer be the case. I grab them when I see them in the junkyard if they are OEM. It is still a crap shoot going used. If you get no click when energizing the correct terminal it may be toast. The top of your IP has two electrical connectors. The front one is the fuel solenoid and should click when connected to 12v. The rear one is the cold advance, and only gets power (from the switch behind the thermostat) when the coolant is below 125 or so.

I'm so stoked guys! It was the GP Relay the whole time! I went to O'Reilly's and bought Part Number (GPR7) Brand - BWD for $21.64 after tax. Took me less than 15 mins to swap everything out, re - connect both batteries and hook my manual push button back up. I held my push button for roughly 7 seconds (a lot warmer today 78degrees) than it's been here lately. The truck started right up at the first turn of the key!! Such a relief! I want to thank everyone who took the time to reply back with guidance and advice! You guys are a life saver!

I will be checking back tomorrow with a vid of the truck running and on start up after its warmed up to operating temp. I have a question on an awful noise I'm hearing from the exhaust on start up for about 7-15 seconds or until the throttle has been pressed gradually for a few seconds and then released.

 

[FordGuy100]

If you're going with a manual pushbutton setup, non of the above.
Get a stancor, white-rodgers, etc.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Yup, stancor relay! Actually built to handle the amperage.

 

[D_Fresh361]

Yup, stancor relay! Actually built to handle the amperage.

I'm not against buying quality parts or anything. I know you get what you pay for and I'm all about spending money on something that will last. The only reasons I went with the O'Reilly relay is because I needed to rule out the GP Relay being bad and it was the closest place to where the truck was located. Also, I needed to know that I could actually get the truck running myself and had to make sure I hadn't bitten off more than I could chew.

If you could give me the correct replacement part number for the relay your recommending (Stancor) that would be awesome! Especially since I will surely be running the manual set up for as long as I own the truck. I kind of like having to push the button. I guess that's just the kid in me still

 

[79jasper]

Stancor 586-902.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[hesutton]

The person that runs R&D IDI is not a member of this forum.

Yup,

Banned (for good reason) actually.

Heath

 

[icanfixall]

Many years ago Mel who is one of this forums well known members had a solenoid fail on the Moose truck. So being the kind of guy he is he purchased a less costly solenoid thinking they looked the same so they must be the same.. Well they are not. It soon failed. so he then purchased the oem solenoid from ford. Then he opened up the failed cheaper one and the original factory one that failed... BIG DIFFERANCE in how they were made. The cheaper one was so weakly made it had no option but to fail with the amps going thru it. I too have felt many after market solenoids look the same and even purchased one to replace my fender mounted solenoid hoping to fix a starter issue. Lucky for me I saved the oem part... We do learn by our mistakes and hopefully was can share them here so others wont do the same.