4x4 truck shakes
- Thread starter Zaggnutt
- Start date
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Dude, you have 2 IDI 5-speed trucks - is the F350 shaft good? Crawl under there with a tape measure and see how long the things are, people have reported successfully using F250 shafts with the D60 axles so it stands to reason you could possibly use a F350 shaft with the D50 axle. Obviously gonna need to swap the yokes on the transfer case side, 1-1/4" thin wall socket and a nice breaker bar should take care of that. IIRC both the D60 and D50 yokes use big-cap 1330, so that end requires no work but better verify that before pulling the shafts.
Copy that. I'm not really interested in robbing Peter to save Paul, but I didn't know the switch was that easy. If I get in a pinch I'll try it. Thanks for the info on that!
Thanks! A couple Spicer U-joints and we're rollin'!
Yeah, I thought so too and this isn't just a "vibration"---this is like driving with a square tire. Thought I would find some sign of damage. I have not removed the shaft to check u-joints yet. I wanted to post an update on progress. U-joints are definitely still a possibility.
i do not condone this course of action!!! lol
most of my life i did things on the bottom dollar, because i couldnt afford the parts.
altho this will work, its 2x the work!!! if you got the time, go for it.
but now a days, i wouldnt tear a runner apart to fix a non runner...
but then again, everyone gets into binds, and you do what you gotta do!
just be ready for twice the work...
you may need one of those cardigan joints. i think their called that...
the piece inbetween the driveshaft and the transfer.
dont know for sure... look into it, both my trucks have them.
if youre not gonna buy it, let me know, cus i will! lol
Okay, so TECHNICALLY the 4 door is a non-runner for the time being but I am addressing that as time allows. The main and rod bearings need to be inspected for damage, some metal on the oil fill plug and the knock all have to be diagnosed and solved before it is technically a runner again
. What a friggin mess. My runner is about to be a non runner and my non runner is, well, still a non runner. I think we have passed "being in a bind" and are headed quickly towards F@#ked! Life wouldn't be any fun if it was easy, would it? Seriously, I'm askin' because I have no idea.On a serious note, Thank you so much to those who have stuck around to try to convert this noob into a well versed, experienced and knowledgeable IDI NUT!!!
we will still be noobs to these old salty dawgs! lol
until the next generation!
if the other truck is not a runner, **** that thing! lol
until the next generation!
if the other truck is not a runner, **** that thing! lol
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
His other truck is the one with the engine problems, water in oil and what have you. Still runs IIRC, but for how long? Definitely wouldn't wanna rely on it should weather get real nasty. If she got good parts use them on the one that runs properly.
The double-cardan (aka CV) joint is used from the factory only on F350s. So his 4-door has it, but the truck that shakes does not. The ebay shaft you posted was correct for a F250 with the TTB.
A cardan joint would indeed be a great saver. But I have to agree about robbing a runner for a non-runner. I'm guilty of that myself and wish I'd had kept things as they were since I'm still dealing with someone else's unfinished project and finding surprises everywhere that are slowly driving me loopy. Now it's my unfinished project, running, but still needing a lot of corrections.
You know, we own our trucks because we are not afraid of working on non-mainstream vehicles. We've all become and are becoming very familiar with the little gremlins that inevitably pop up. And the discovery is half the fun, isn't it? And let's face it you are also finding yourself among like minded people who have the same interests.
Good luck, from a fellow IDI nut
You know, we own our trucks because we are not afraid of working on non-mainstream vehicles. We've all become and are becoming very familiar with the little gremlins that inevitably pop up. And the discovery is half the fun, isn't it? And let's face it you are also finding yourself among like minded people who have the same interests.
Good luck, from a fellow IDI nut
Thanks. You are right on. Discovery IS half the fun, with solving it and the sense of accomplishment and pride in your "project" the other half... The BONUS is we get to DRIVE our projects instead of just building them and then watching them collect dust
That's kinda where I got myself in a tough spot. The 4 door has what I believe is diesel in the oil from leaky injector(s) and the knock which may be a spun main or rod bearing. Unfortunately, the truck I bought to take it's place for the time being has the chuff which somehow was not there until I drove it home (I'm still confused how it remained hidden during inspection and test drive) so I essentially have two time bombs on my hands. I got used heads getting cleaned and prepped to go on the chuffer and I am working my way through the 4 door to solve that.
So far I have been able to get by without 4x4 with weight in the bed. The goal is to get the 4 door back running as my daily and the reg cab as a dedicated work truck. I have two kids in booster seats and the reg cab is not ideal, safe, or adequate especially when you add in groceries, etc. I am stuffing cereal, milk, and lettuce in my tool box
I aim to get an suv this summer so both trucks can be dedicated workers and the kids can be more comfy.
bbjordan
Snow Monkey
Front axle u-joint testing.
Zaggnutt, I had a similar problem with my 4x4. It had a chunky feeling. At times, it was has hard to turn the steering wheel!
It turned out to be bad u-joints on the axle shafts.
To test, do this:
Engage the parking brake or block the rear wheels.
Put the transfer case in Neutral or 2H.
Jack the drivers front side up until the front wheel is off the ground.
Lock the hub.
Rotate the wheel. It should move freely and easily unless you have a limited slip differential in the front (unlikely).
Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side. Try rotating the wheel again. If there is a bad u-joint you will feel it.
Repeat for the other side of the truck.
Zaggnutt, I had a similar problem with my 4x4. It had a chunky feeling. At times, it was has hard to turn the steering wheel!
It turned out to be bad u-joints on the axle shafts.To test, do this:
Engage the parking brake or block the rear wheels.
Put the transfer case in Neutral or 2H.
Jack the drivers front side up until the front wheel is off the ground.
Lock the hub.
Rotate the wheel. It should move freely and easily unless you have a limited slip differential in the front (unlikely).
Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side. Try rotating the wheel again. If there is a bad u-joint you will feel it.
Repeat for the other side of the truck.
Zaggnutt, I had a similar problem with my 4x4. It had a chunky feeling. At times, it was has hard to turn the steering wheel!
To test, do this:
Engage the parking brake or block the rear wheels.
Put the transfer case in Neutral or 2H.
Jack the drivers front side up until the front wheel is off the ground.
Lock the hub.
Rotate the wheel. It should move freely and easily unless you have a limited slip differential in the front (unlikely).
Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side. Try rotating the wheel again. If there is a bad u-joint you will feel it.
Repeat for the other side of the truck.
Will do. Thanks for that. I will try tomorrow if I can. Was gonna pull it today but ended up with an issue with my oil cooler and it was 11pm til I got outta the shop.
I pulled the driveshaft out the other day. It doesn't appear to be bent and it is not damaged at all. The u-joints still have the needle caps intact and they move freely (the half that is not in the driveshaft). They look like they've been on there a while but seem okay. I didn't get to mess with the yokes. Do I need to remove the u-joints from the driveshaft to test movement that way as well? Sorry that is a bit of a dumb question but I was surprised to find nothing obviously wrong when I pulled it... Oh, I should mention one thing I noticed. A couple of the nuts holding on the u-bolts that secure the u-joint were all but hand turnable when I removed them. Is it possible the vibration/flexing could be caused by loose nuts?
