Dude, you have 2 IDI 5-speed trucks - is the F350 shaft good? Crawl under there with a tape measure and see how long the things are, people have reported successfully using F250 shafts with the D60 axles so it stands to reason you could possibly use a F350 shaft with the D50 axle. Obviously gonna need to swap the yokes on the transfer case side, 1-1/4" thin wall socket and a nice breaker bar should take care of that. IIRC both the D60 and D50 yokes use big-cap 1330, so that end requires no work but better verify that before pulling the shafts.
I'd think if it was bent enough to shake it would be visible. You have removed the shaft and ujoints move freely and needles intact? Mine has bad ujoints in front and causes some vibration from being still through part of the rotation.
Dude, you have 2 IDI 5-speed trucks - is the F350 shaft good? Crawl under there with a tape measure and see how long the things are, people have reported successfully using F250 shafts with the D60 axles so it stands to reason you could possibly use a F350 shaft with the D50 axle. Obviously gonna need to swap the yokes on the transfer case side, 1-1/4" thin wall socket and a nice breaker bar should take care of that. IIRC both the D60 and D50 yokes use big-cap 1330, so that end requires no work but better verify that before pulling the shafts.
Thanks! A couple Spicer U-joints and we're rollin'!
i do not condone this course of action!!! lol
most of my life i did things on the bottom dollar, because i couldnt afford the parts.
altho this will work, its 2x the work!!! if you got the time, go for it.
but now a days, i wouldnt tear a runner apart to fix a non runner...
but then again, everyone gets into binds, and you do what you gotta do!
just be ready for twice the work...
His other truck is the one with the engine problems, water in oil and what have you. Still runs IIRC, but for how long? Definitely wouldn't wanna rely on it should weather get real nasty. If she got good parts use them on the one that runs properly.i do not condone this course of action!!! lol
most of my life i did things on the bottom dollar, because i couldnt afford the parts.
altho this will work, its 2x the work!!! if you got the time, go for it.
but now a days, i wouldnt tear a runner apart to fix a non runner...
but then again, everyone gets into binds, and you do what you gotta do!
just be ready for twice the work...
The double-cardan (aka CV) joint is used from the factory only on F350s. So his 4-door has it, but the truck that shakes does not. The ebay shaft you posted was correct for a F250 with the TTB.you may need one of those cardigan joints. i think their called that...
the piece inbetween the driveshaft and the transfer.
dont know for sure... look into it, both my trucks have them.
if youre not gonna buy it, let me know, cus i will! lol
A cardan joint would indeed be a great saver. But I have to agree about robbing a runner for a non-runner. I'm guilty of that myself and wish I'd had kept things as they were since I'm still dealing with someone else's unfinished project and finding surprises everywhere that are slowly driving me loopy. Now it's my unfinished project, running, but still needing a lot of corrections.
You know, we own our trucks because we are not afraid of working on non-mainstream vehicles. We've all become and are becoming very familiar with the little gremlins that inevitably pop up. And the discovery is half the fun, isn't it? And let's face it you are also finding yourself among like minded people who have the same interests.
Good luck, from a fellow IDI nut
His other truck is the one with the engine problems, water in oil and what have you. Still runs IIRC, but for how long? Definitely wouldn't wanna rely on it should weather get real nasty. If she got good parts use them on the one that runs properly.
Zaggnutt, I had a similar problem with my 4x4. It had a chunky feeling. At times, it was has hard to turn the steering wheel! It turned out to be bad u-joints on the axle shafts.
To test, do this:
Engage the parking brake or block the rear wheels.
Put the transfer case in Neutral or 2H.
Jack the drivers front side up until the front wheel is off the ground.
Lock the hub.
Rotate the wheel. It should move freely and easily unless you have a limited slip differential in the front (unlikely).
Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side. Try rotating the wheel again. If there is a bad u-joint you will feel it.
Repeat for the other side of the truck.