one reason that cranking didnt budge it is because there is a opening between the washer and file that the compression can escape through, so i epoxy over this opening?
or ... maybe the exhaust valve is stuck open, so it cant build compression?----------------------would blowing compressed air...
yes I cranked the motor, nothing. soaked it in kroil for 4 days(started to worry about hydrolocking). the file is snapped off flush with the washer.
Installing part of an injector will not stop the compression from blowing out the top of the injector.. ..................... that would be fine...
I have a 1" piece of triangle file stuck in the copper washer in the #1 cylinder and cant get it out. would I damage anything by running the engine without this injector?
will the different temps warp the head?
I can route the fuel to the #1 inj. back to the return so that wont be a problem...
just a little antisieze at the threads, 10 ft lbs. you can use a fuel hose to get them started in the opening(some of them are hard to get into)
1/4 bendable extension and a real deep 1/4" 3/8 socket will make it easy.
replace the metal fuel line with new fuel hose, use as few connections as possible and get good hose clamps(screw clamps not worm clamps or these newer jsomething? clamps. and if you need to use connectors the 3/8 air hose connectors work better(because they are larger diameter) than the...
I just did this same thing a couple months ago LOL
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=29791
mine had 2 c-clips use a telemagnet and get them out.
fill the trans fluid while you have the cover off.
its a learning process
Would it give me enough clearance to remove the rad. and condensor and slide the engine forward? I would also like to install my turbo, I know my knuckles will appreciate.
are these the same volts as the spade type zd1a for the 6.9?
because im thinking why not spice into the wire with the zd9 connector and use either gp--shouldnt this work?
- where should i look for the elect. connectors
mines the same way, I have a leaking heater core at the fire wall--I have thought about bypassing the heater core to make sure thats the only leak(should do it soon)
how about splicing onto the wire with the zd9 connector and taping the zd1a connector- this way if I need to go back to the older style i can just remove the tape and plug it in.
I like the connection on the newer zd9 more and would like to replace my zd1a's with zd9's are they the same volts ect.? Will the spade connector have to be changed or will it slide over the zd9?
Thanks
x2
btw napa has a buy one get one sale one weekend in sept and one weekend in oct. I think they were the third weekend? last week too- the napa gold are wix filters
I went into a IH store to get a thermostat and they said they could not find a tractor with a 6.9 and he would need a serial #. does anyone know where we can get IH parts and what tractor its should be for, I am asking becase they should be less expensive than Ford, right?
Thanks
Get the injector return kit, its easy to install( check the cond. of the inj. while your at it- I wish I would have when I tried a new fuel)
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30933
check that you solinoids are working correctly( are the the black pollack valve- because...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.