Its been a long time since I found myself posting here. I've had this 86 F250 4x4 for probably 16 years. 14 or 15 years ago I pulled the tired 6.9 out and put a good 7.3 in it with an ATS Turbo. Its been a really great truck and I've done a lot of work on it.
A few weeks ago I went up to the...
You do not have anti-lock in the front, it's rear abs only or for short RABS. The RABS unit is as TowCat says prone to failure, however, if you mess with it just replace it. Don't waste you time trying to work on it. If your rear wheels start to skid then stop and the pedal drops you have just...
If when you move the switch to "center or off" and the guage goes to e then your signal wire, as I remember a yellow wire with a white tracer that flashes when probed with a test light, is finding a direct path to ground. ;Really
Ford used three different systems that I am aware of. I went back and tried to research which one I thought was capable of shutting out the light but leave the plugs on. I don't have all my old books here they are at work. Anyway it seems like I remember that it may have been the early 83's that...
The guages on the older trucks default to full when the signal wire is open to ground. Your signal wire is either shorted to ground via damaged switching valve, rubbed through or pinched wires, damaged connectors, or your floats have sunk. If its a short it could be anywhere from the gauge to...
x2 and in my opinion the controller or someones finger on the button could have burned them up also. I'd loose the old blade type plugs and convert to the bullet style and later model solid state controller.
So does the controller still work automatically with afterglow etc or is it essentially defeated by the button leaving the glow plugs on or off depending on the button position?
X2 . If you didn't let the smoke out of the wires you don't have a short. If absolutely nothing is powering up you most probably have an open circuit in the main power supply from the right battery pos cable to the solenoid on the right fender. Might have come apart or might just be loose...
If the brakes are still locked try loosening the master cylinder at the booster and see if the brakes release. If they do there is a problem with the master or booster. If they remain locked or dragging try cracking a bleeder to see if there is pressure present. (don't step on the brake pedal!!)...
This might be some of it.
If your in Indiana then you don't have a lot of altitude to deal with and you've got more atmospheric pressure to supply enough air to the combustion chamber and complete the burn of the added fuel.
When I lived in Texas about 800 ft above sea level and had the pump...
The Bosch in mine are still going strong but I updated the entire system to a late model controller. Before that I burned everything up including a lot of zd9s with a push button. The reason I tried the bosch when I upgraded is because I was burning up everything anyway. Too easy to over do it...
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