Glow Plugs

Fishin76

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What was the Part# of the autolites?

The next question is what GP to use. Here is where the fun begins. I profess using AC12Gs or Autolite 1109s. They are temperature limiting via. A built in positive temperature coefficient resistance coil in series with the heating coil. This allows the GP to heat to red hot and stay there without melting down. The normal failure mode of a GP is overheating. Caused by a controller going bad or a finger getting too heavy. At any rate a pain in the butt. Now if you want the ultimate GP, a BERU 007 is temperature controlled and a BERU that everyone holds in reverence.$21.15 at

For BERUs: https://www.real4wd.com/B1WebTools/c...spx?PartNo=007 $21.15

Check out this website: Glow Plug - Military Humvee 6.5L I've emailed them regarding their GP_65MILHUM GPs. They even have the correct terminal! $68.50/set + S&H.

Check them out if you don’t believe me. Whatever you choose, preheat them before you install them. Hook them up to 12V and watch them heat, you may want to do it in two stages, 1st heat them until they smoke. Let them cool as you test the others, then take them to red hot. If you have an ammeter to measure the current and they are temperature limiting, they should start out at around 10 amps and taper off to about 4 amps. If they continue to draw 10amps, they are not TL GPs.

Ya, those will work for 7.3L, Bullet connectors., But I need spades.
 

Fishin76

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Accuratediesel is claiming that their 6.9L GP's are self-limiting, and only 68.50 a set.

They also have GP controllers for the 6.9 for $65. Thats cheaper than I have seen them any where else.....
 

Fordsandguns

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Ya, those will work for 7.3L, Bullet connectors., But I need spades.

The Autolite 1110's are spade connectors. They are for the 6.2's I understand.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27506&highlight=autolite+1110&page=2

They sound as if they might work good. I know the general consensus is that autolites are junk but that is for the ones made for our engines. According to spyder1100 he tested the 1110's up to 24v with no swelling. They might be a good choice.
 

ericboutin

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I guess I'm trying to understand what is to be gained by using these autolites? Maybe a few bucks...we all know the Beru's work and are good plugs. So I'm thinking why re-invent the wheel here especially when the consequences could be so great....head removal etc etc. I think I'll just stay with the Beru's cuz even at stealership prices it still far cheaper than the hassle of having a plug swell up and drop bits on my pistons. Just my .02 though. :D
 

Fordsandguns

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I guess I'm trying to understand what is to be gained by using these autolites? Maybe a few bucks...we all know the Beru's work and are good plugs. So I'm thinking why re-invent the wheel here especially when the consequences could be so great....head removal etc etc. I think I'll just stay with the Beru's cuz even at stealership prices it still far cheaper than the hassle of having a plug swell up and drop bits on my pistons. Just my .02 though. :D

On my donor truck i had two Berus that were swelled. One came out, the other broke but the broken piece stayed in the gp hole. I tried for a week to get it out and finally just started the engine and it blew out.
I don't think that the 12v autolites have the same issues as the 6v autolites meant for our engines.
Spyder1100 had one on 12v for 15 min straight and then 24v for 5 min without swelling.
I am going to try a set. If I were going back stock I would get the berus.
 

Goofyexponent

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Other than the bosch plugs burning out, no one has had any problems with them though it seems. I'll run the ones i bought and post how they work......whenever they get here!-cuss;Pissed
 

Andylad13

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Today, I timed my plugs because I just got in the 4 replacement borg warners. I took out the last autolites in the bunch. It was in the 50*s today and they burned for just over 20 seconds. I am very happy. Looks like i'll be going into my second winter without using a block heater. Maybe this year will bring colder temps than -7* like last year.
 

Hybrid455

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Accuratediesel is claiming that their 6.9L GP's are self-limiting, and only 68.50 a set.

They also have GP controllers for the 6.9 for $65. Thats cheaper than I have seen them any where else.....

I may be wrong here so if I am someone straighten me out. I have found that the biggest killer of glow plugs was the old bi metalic strip style controllers. Since I upgraded to the solid state controller and bullet style glow plugs I haven't had any problem. Before that I burned and swelled them all up...regardless of the brand. The old controllers were just unreliable. That's why Ford came up with the TSB and upgrade. Back in the day techs were making a killing replacing glow plugs. They were the weak link and dropped like flies even on new units. My advise is to upgrade if your still trying to run the old style. You'll save money in long run and your sanity right away.;Sweet
 

Goofyexponent

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Well, as I said I would, I would post back on how the Bosch plugs performed.

AND, as you all said, the Bosch plugs lasted about 2 and a half months and then one by one, they started burning out...

I used one whole set up and the other set is currently in the truck and working. None of the burnt ones swelled up or got stuck, I shouldn't have even never siezed them. They wern't in long enough to seize up.

I am going to buy the Beru's from now on until either myself or someone else finds a better plug.

No more bosch's because I am going to wear tha threads out for the GP's in the heads. lol.

Rockauto, here I come!
 

Goofyexponent

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I am running a controller setup...but the controller fires by a push button due to the wiring hack job.

The reason why the truck burnt out plugs before was because it had the SAME plugs in it then as I do now....but that is going to change!
 

Hybrid455

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I am running a controller setup...but the controller fires by a push button due to the wiring hack job.

The reason why the truck burnt out plugs before was because it had the SAME plugs in it then as I do now....but that is going to change!

So does the controller still work automatically with afterglow etc or is it essentially defeated by the button leaving the glow plugs on or off depending on the button position?
 

Goofyexponent

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Afterglow is defeated. The putton is just a push button that lets the controller do it's thing. I just hold the button on until the WTS light pops off and let go. It starts right us unless it's REALLY cold.
 

6.5dieselman

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i'm running the bosch plugs and they have worked fine and the truck starts good. takes a couple of cycles but they work everytime
 
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