60-1 upgrade

david85

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Drafted my Dad to help out with the turbo upgrade today. He was able to open up the airbox connection to fit over the larger turbo opening. Put up a fight but he got it to work.

I modified the new compressor housing by using an angle grinder to polish off the outer ridge of the inlet and outlet since they would only get in the way for the O ring connections on the ATS turbo kit. It is a little tight fitting into the swirl chamber since the outlet is slightly bigger than the ATS, but I can be sure that there will be no boost leaks that way.;Sweet

The compressor housing does clear the turbo pedistal without modding, but its REALLY close. I'm talking within 1/16". So close that the backing plate clamps (I think thats what they're called) have to be positioned not to be in that location. An even bigger housing would still fit but some grinding of the pedistal would be needed. The only other thing to clear will be the firewall, but I'm not worried about that. Getting it in might be a challenge though. I might have to remove the studs that hold the center section to the pedistal and replace them with bolts. There are only two of them, but they always put up a fight.

I mocked up everything on the bench and I think the swirl chamber will work even though the compressor housing diameter is larger. The outlet will simply push further into the intake hat connection and the connection has some flexibility thanks to the O ring.

After reading about possible drainback problems of the valley pan oil return, I took this opportunity to knock some holes in the baffle now while the turbo petistal was out. Used an air chisel and made a few holes in there (like butta;Sweet). I wonder if it could explain the mystery oil leak that always came down the rear of the engine along with a puddle of oil on the rear of the valley pan. Find out soon enough.

Only the pedistal has been re installed as of right now. We worked steady all afternoon and ended up skipping lunch. I could have finished it, but since I'm fighting a cold, I figured I should stay in for the rest of the day. I could get even more sick or worse yet, screw up on the assembly:eek: Tomorow is another day.

Don't worry, pictures are comming.....
 

david85

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Ahhh........this is going to be interesting, powerstrokes beware!!!!

I'm not sure if I can ever match the Hp of a chipped powerstroke, but even the way I had it, there are few powerstrokes that my truck can't catch. They would either run out of fuel, RPM or both. My truck is a determined predator.LOL

I just hope this turbo boosts better than it did before. Even if it wasn't for the larger size, the old compressor wheel had nicks and a bend on it. Would sure be nice to see more than 10 PSI.
 

Dirtleg

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Now this is interesting. Let us know as soon as you get it running. 60-1, nice.
 

typ4

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David I could have machined that snout for you, now I feel bad, not really just could have saved you some time.

I did the 60-1 on mine 2 years ago and really like it, it will be good to know how it works on a non gated setup.
 

david85

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David I could have machined that snout for you, now I feel bad, not really just could have saved you some time.

Not an issue. I work with aluminum all the time and I was done with that mod within about 20 minutes. I could do work like that blind folded since its nearly identical to the finishing of aluminum railing end caps (my day job is building railings). The airbox gave us the most trouble and thats no fault of yours.

The only thing I might regret is that the new compressor wheel is not as big as I thought it would be. The inducer seems to be the same size as the old one, but the exducer and inlet as well as housing are bigger, so we'll see how it works. You can never be sure of these things till you see them in action. I also had to shorten the compressor wheel slightly and then re balance it since the nut was only grabbing about 3 threads on the turbo shaft. I was able to check and rebalance it using an old hobbiest trick for compact electric motors.

Evedently, the ATS compressor wheel is shorter than the 60-1 wheel. Again, nobody's fault. Just have to make it work.
 

88 Ford

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With your setup, how many psi of boost do you plan on running? Quite a bit of boost would be cool since your compression ratio is lower than stock. Also if you run more boost, have you thought of intercooling?
 

88 Ford

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Oh 1 more question. How does your truck start with that lower compression ratio in British Columbia? Its gotta be cold up there!!
 

typ4

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Evedently, the ATS compressor wheel is shorter than the 60-1 wheel. Again, nobody's fault. Just have to make it work.


That is one of the questions, my 093 shaft was plenty long ,so there are variables involved in the turbine types. I had 2 banks units apart and one took a shorter wheel than the other, the replacement turbine seems to be longer that the one you have I bet. Also rotomaster seems to be a little shorter, which is what I bet ATS used on the early units.
 

david85

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Finished it by late morning today. I have to say I am a little dissapointed. Boost does not seem to build any faster and max boost seems to be identical to what it was.

Peak power seems to be about what it was before the swap. Top speed on a 10% grade is still 70 MPH (maybe closer to 71) with EGTs topping out at about 950. Half power acceleration seems to be better but its really subjective since its only my feeling. I run out of speedometer easily in 3rd gear at half power.

Smoke seems to be less, and it also seems to be getting out of the "hole" faster when starting off.

Low end boost does not seem to have improved by much.

Now for the reality checks.

I am not sure if my boost gauge is lying to me but it is possible and I'm thinking the gauge reading might at least be delayed (8' of line to the gauge),

Its also possible I have a boost leak somewhere in the system, although it seems unlikely. The top seems to be sealed well, but I didn't check the exhaust line connections for signs of leaks.

Since top end smoke has been reduced, I'm thinking that fuel flow might be limiting my maximum boost/power. A also suspect that the small amount of smoke that is still present has more to do with dynamic timing than a lack of boost pressure.

I don't really have the time right now to fiddle with it since I have an engine from another vehicle torn apart and word is that work could be comming up. But for the time being the truck is drivable and I will use it as is and see what happens. Overall the upgrade didn't take as long as I expected. After a few days of driving it, I'll crawl under and look for any signs of soot leaking out of the connections.

I'm working on resizing the picture so I can upload them. Give me a few minutes.....
 

david85

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Pictures.........
 

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david85

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Oh 1 more question. How does your truck start with that lower compression ratio in British Columbia? Its gotta be cold up there!!

Not very cold where I am, but even when it got below 0F here, it still started just fine without being plugged in.

No plans for an intercooler, but I was hoping to get close to 20 PSI of boost, although it seems I may not be there yet.
 

typ4

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Turn up the fuel more.I had to go up 2 more flats. I can hit 1100 pyro empty on a small hill. It takes some heat to make more boost. Also the smallest exh leak will kill boost, what size line are you running to your boost gauge? I ran 1/4 and it responds much quicker.

Is the ar marked on the exh housing?
 
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