You may or may not need to get a conversion joint. Some had larger caps. I have had them bolt right in, others had to get conversion joint
Clutch options
- Thread starter austin92
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austin92
Full Access Member
I'd even consider having a stronger driveshaft built with matching u joints but I wouldn't know the first place to look for a driveshaft builder around here or a place to get the correct conversion joint
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I get my joints from normal parts store. Any good parts guy can figure it out. First ask them if they know how to use the books. They won't find it on the computer
Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
advanced auto sells moog they are already $26 each. I just did them on my 96 but I'm not sure what your setup is, I brought my slip yoke with me the last time because the first ones they gave me were wronf. I use a ball joint press to do ujoints, it takes about 3 minutes each. I wire weel everything even yoke with brass wheel, then I cover everything with silver never seize to keep it from rusting and help caps slide in square.
austin92
Full Access Member
They always tell me to bring in my u joints because my truck has 2 options of that year but I daily drive my truck. Tempted to buy both and just try them
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Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
Yeah just return the one you don't use. I do that all the time haha
austin92
Full Access Member
Autozone was saying 2 options on my 83 and advanced said there's 5 options on my truck and 5 on the 94.... Knowing my luck, I'm going to run into ujoint problems.... :/
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Denny's driveshaft web page has lots of info on ujoints. There are lots of options if you lump 80-97 together like most of the systems do for older vehicles. I know of 3 variants. They started out as a standard 1330 joint at the axle.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p36...universal_joint_1330_series_with_4_1.062.html
It used the u-bolt straps.
Ford had issues with breaking the caps that were under the ubolts because of the point loading on the caps and so they introduced a ******* 1330 that has two caps that are a little thicker than the standard cap and hence that made those two caps larger in diameter.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p36...universal_joint_1330_series_ford_with_2_.html
The 90 diff I put in my truck falls into this category. Then they switched the yokes to the strap style.
My 91 had this type. I believe it uses a standard 1330 joint again but I can't swear to that right now.
Eventually I believe they went to companion flanges. I have changed those too but it was too long ago to remember what they were.
Basically on the older trucks you have to measure the caps because there are options and that is one area of a truck that tends to get mucked around with over time.
Hope that helps.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p36...universal_joint_1330_series_with_4_1.062.html
It used the u-bolt straps.
Ford had issues with breaking the caps that were under the ubolts because of the point loading on the caps and so they introduced a ******* 1330 that has two caps that are a little thicker than the standard cap and hence that made those two caps larger in diameter.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p36...universal_joint_1330_series_ford_with_2_.html
The 90 diff I put in my truck falls into this category. Then they switched the yokes to the strap style.
My 91 had this type. I believe it uses a standard 1330 joint again but I can't swear to that right now.
Eventually I believe they went to companion flanges. I have changed those too but it was too long ago to remember what they were.
Basically on the older trucks you have to measure the caps because there are options and that is one area of a truck that tends to get mucked around with over time.
Hope that helps.
austin92
Full Access Member
Wish it didn't rain all weekend. I really wanted to crawl under my truck and make some measurements
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austin92
Full Access Member
Well I finally broke down and bought a clutch today. Went to schied diesel extravaganza in terre haute, Indiana, stopped by the south bend booth and they offered me a 425hp, 850ft lb clutch kit including flywheel for 650$. I also talked the guy into putting my Chinese sks 300$ towards the clutch so I couldn't pass it up. Still trying to find a bank willing to work with me having 0 credit so I can take the loan to rebuild that 10.25. Still can't decide if I want to run 3.73 or 4.10s either 
. 2200rpm at 70mph on 3.73s and 2400 rpm at 70mph on 4.10s. Usually don't go much faster than that. 80 absolute max. Now I just need a 1350 driveshaft from Denny's
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. 2200rpm at 70mph on 3.73s and 2400 rpm at 70mph on 4.10s. Usually don't go much faster than that. 80 absolute max. Now I just need a 1350 driveshaft from Denny's Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
austin92
Full Access Member
Does anyone make a billet yoke for the 10.25? This one has a decent grove in it and with stock replacements 90$+ a billet one couldn't hurt. Also, when I pulled it all apart this weekend, the carrier didn't have and shims on it, just looked like 2 big thrust washers. This common?
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Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
When i pull apart the GM 8.5" rear in my 2001 suburban it had just two thrust washers in it and a single shim on the pinion. I think the factory just machines everything so exact they install everything already knowing the necessary shims for correct backlash.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Could be some misuse of terminology.
But he did say carrier.
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Yep... sorry.. missed that. He was talking about yokes so I thought he was messing with the pinion.
