Clutch options

[austin92]

Yup, one shim on the pinion, crush sleeve still there. No shims on the carrier. Just found it interesting that they didn't shim the carrier from the factory


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[subway]

The big rings on either side are the shims to set the carrier.

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[austin92]

The big rings on either side are the shims to set the carrier.

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Ah, so they're just machined to put the carrier where it needs to be rather than trial and error with small shims? Might put a mic on them to see if they're different.


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[subway]

They are different and I had to swap a couple around to get the right pattern when I did a gear set earlier this year. Fortunately I pulled 3 axles apart so I had a few different shims to work with and get right.

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[Shawn MacAnanny]

You could probably buy a shim kit too. The sides are usually a two piece thick shim that has a collar and one and slides inside of the other to allow you to add other thinner shims between. I've always tapped them in with a large brass punch. They shouldnt just fall out, you should have to pry carrier out with a small ammount of force.

 

[austin92]

Carrier took quite a bit of force to get out. The master install kit comes with shims, been told I should order extra crush sleeves too. This is my first time setting up gears but I'm confident


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[79jasper]

Watch this also.
Having the "set up bearing" would be great.
https://youtu.be/sf1a8i0mqCw

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[DaveBen]

It is not hard, just put marking compound on the teeth of the gears and "read" the marks on the gears and compare them to the tooth marks on the chart [https://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Book/Reading-and-Adjusting-Ring-and-Pinion-Tooth-Patterns.pdf]. Adjust the shims according to the above chart. Takes some time but not hard.

 

[ifrythings]

You don't need extra crush sleeves, only put the crush sleeve in at the very end after you got your pattern dialed in, just snug the pinion nut up till you feel some resistance to turn it, then put your carrier in and check back lash then pattern. It's not hard to do but you will have to pull everything a few times especially the carrier.

It's not as daunting as people make it out to be

 

[riotwarrior]

So let me get this 100 % straight...

You dont want to do the diff untill you have the locker or posi and gearing of your choice but you are rebuilding it anyways?

Also look into crush sleeve eliminator kit or CSEK to be free of that stupid pos.

There are some handy tools for this job too but not free...i have a special one attaches to yoke so I can stop it from spinning and do all preload prior to installing carrier...as well acts like a puller.

Just sayin...do it one time....

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Best advice I can offer is buy two pinion bearings of the exact same brand. Take a Dremel with sand paper wheel and sand the inside of one. This will allow you to slide it on and off the Pinon without having to use a bearing puller each time. Don't get a different brand the last one I did was taller by about. 015". Gonna need a magnetic dial indicator, an inch ft lbs torque wrench with lots of adapters to fit the pinion socket. I was able to crush the lady sleeve with an air cat 1150 at 150psi. They can take a ton of force like up to 800ftlb to crush.

 

[79jasper]

Yep. That was pointed out in the video I linked.
Until I saw that, I would've never even thought of such a thing. But now I know.

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[austin92]

Good video, read on Randys ring and pinion. Like I said, shouldn't be too bad but I've never done one before. I am waiting until I get the differential to put it all together, didn't plan on setting up gears twice lol. Looked into a crush sleeve eliminator, only thing I could find was people modifying a ford 9" eliminator to work in the 10.25. Randys ring and pinion said that with the power out put, tire size, and intended use of the truck, a crush sleeve would work fine


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[riotwarrior]

if you say so.

Look here starting at post 224

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...ig-Blue-Ox-build/page15&highlight=Big+blue+ox

This came out of a turbo IDI 2WD 5SP truck. This is what happens with crush sleeves when the cant hold tension...pinion nuts slacken and pionions walk into carrier

So tell me again obiwan tell me again...

Csek is easier to install than crush sleeve and 10x better

JM7.3CW Eh!

 

[austin92]

if you say so.

Look here starting at post 224

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...ig-Blue-Ox-build/page15&highlight=Big+blue+ox

This came out of a turbo IDI 2WD 5SP truck. This is what happens with crush sleeves when the cant hold tension...pinion nuts slacken and pionions walk into carrier

So tell me again obiwan tell me again...

Csek is easier to install than crush sleeve and 10x better

JM7.3CW Eh!

Like I said man, I looked in to them and couldn't find a 10.25 specific so I really didn't want to mess with it. The opinion stating that a crush sleeve would work fine was from Randys ring and pinion, not me. Also, you stated your running 38s with a turbo. I'm naturally aspirated on smaller yet wider than stock 245/75/16. Also 2wd so no multiplier from a t case. I'm not saying you're wrong, or that a crush sleeve cant fail, or that I'd rather have a crush sleeve over a solid spacer, just repeating what Randys ring and pinion said and pointing out that there's less stress on my drive train than yours. If you found a 10.25 specific solid spacer, I would love a link and would buy one for sure


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